41744052500 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Watched the video on website and followed what they said. Worked great.

the work is simple, its getting it done. The pins that hold the shocks in are very hard to get to and no room to swing a hammer. I had to use a C- clamp on the left upper in and it was no picnic. The washer in the video was a little different than mine.

Removed front panel and unplugged wire connector to drain pump. Loosened two hose clamps and removed hoses the unbolted drain pump from washer frame. Simple removal and even simplier installation of new drain pump.

It was very good. They should have mentioned about the wire and spring to remove the rubber strip though. Found out about that in comments! Otherwise, very good!

pulled the retaining ring then unscrewed 2 screws removed the bad switch and unplugged the old wires then hooked them back to the new switch...this was the second switch in approximately 2 years...

Watched a u tube video and did it myself and I'm a 58 year old woman who has never worked on a washer before!

This repair was pretty simple. Unplug washer from electrical outlet and remove hoses. This is a good time to replace the hoses. Removed two screws at the back of the washer to remove the top of the washer. This exposed the faulty valve assembly. Disconnect the three connections. There are two screws holding this part in place. The top one is easy to remove, the bottom one is a little more difficult due to access. Remove plastic retainer plate on back of washer. Remove faulty valve assembly. There are two rubber grommets/gaskets that will need to be removed from the faulty part and installed on the new part. Slide new assembly into place. Secure with the two screws. Replace retainer plate. Reattach power connections. Reattach hoses and finally Reinstall top of washer. Total time was right around 30 minutes.

Removed and replaced two screws.

It was a very easy fix. Called a repairman and they wanted 350.00 to come out. Ordered the door lock and switch assembly for 76.00 and it was fixed in 15 minutes. Thank you for shipping the part so fast. Much appreciated.

Took door lock switch out and fished out broken part. Reinstalled switch and installed new striker. Problem solved. Ordered extra striker just in case.

For some time, our washer's door was vibrating and making noise during the spin cycles. Then after washing a large blanket, the drum stopped spinning all together. I was able to slide the top of the washer off after undoing the screws in the back and then following the directions, found that the error code was for the washer door. The drum would not spin because it thought that the door was open, confirming what we thought, the door lock and switch assembly were bad.
I was able to unscrew the assembly from the front, then reach down and after ordering the new part, disconnect the 3 cables, remove the old part then redo the cables on the new assembly and Voila...working washer, woo hoo!

"Instructions" with the kit suggest pulling the pins out with a pair of pliers. That's fine if you're a gorilla. It's easier to use a 13MM boxed-end wrench. Slip it over the tapered end to depress the locking tab; then tap a 3/8 dowel rod held against the tapered end to remove the pin. Also my washer has a drain tube that has to be disconnected to get access to the top pin. If I had to do this again it would take about an hour.

First unplug the machine, then remove two srews on the back of the machine for the top cover. Remove top cover and then remove two srews that hold the door locking part. Put your hand in the machine and grab the part. unplug the three wire harnessess then plug them back and put back in place and put the two srews back and then the top cover and two srews as well.

love parts select have used them several times for parts great company

I removed the front access cover and the rear cover. It was also necessary to remove the water level sensor (attached to the tub drain hose) to access one of the shocks. Not having a 1/2" deep socket, I used a 2" piece of 1/2" copper pipe to depress the locking tab on the shock attachment pins--worked great. Pulled the pins out with pliers. Putting the pins back in after replacing the shocks was easiest to do using 'channel-lock' pliers to grab the bracket and the pin head and squeeze in the pin. The only problem was that my copper pipe piece fell into the drain hose when removing one of the pins! Had to take the drain hose loose to fish it out.