11045091403 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Factory hose clamps were awkward to maneuver. I used automotive radiator hose clamps instead. They worked great.

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

Followed directions as shown in your repair video, having done this for the first time it took a bit longer than a repairman would have but was able to git-r-done. The most difficult part was fitting the adjustable wire back around the front of the washer, in the video it is made to look really easy however in real life it is a little more difficult and could not be attached so easily and took quite a bit of time to make sure it was attached correctly. thank you for your help.

Pull spring wire on front. Remove large hose lamp at tub. Reinstall in reverse order.

Inputs on your web site of other people who had replaced this valve assembly helped.
Remove top cover from washer - three socket head screws on rear of machine, (need to move washer forward for access)
Turn off both hot and cold manual shutoff vales on wall. Run washer to take water pressure off from hoses (turn on for water to turn on , and then turn washer off).
Remove both hoses (mark/remember which side is hot/cold, as valve assembly has no markings), from valve assembly, had to use channel locks/adjustable wrench to remove nuts as they were really tight. Check to see if gaskets were OK, would have been nice, if these gaskets are supplied with new valve assembly. Remove screw which holds valve assembly to washer. Slide valve assembly slightly side ways to free it from bulkhead panel. Remove last hose assembly inside washer, attached to valve; remove four wires from solenoids. Keep track of wires (which solenoid).
Replace valve, reconnect internal hoses and wires; install valve assemble on bulkhead panel; attach screw; reconnect hoses; turn on manual valves; check for leaks; briefly turn on washer, check for internal leaks; install cover; push back washer in place.

First I removed the retainer ring that holds the outside bellows on the frame of the front washer.
I then pushed the bellows inside of the drum of the washing machine in-order to get to the clamp that holds the bellows on the inside of the drum. To pull the clump I had to use a stubby screwdriver and socket drive to loosen the clamp. Once the clamp is loosen I was able to pull the bellows off, of the drum and out of the washing machine. Installation was the reverse of removal.

2 clamps and its off, problem is if you have average size hands you will struggle in getting the back clamp on and off.

Shocks are the #1 recommendation for this problem, but they were not the solution. The problem turned out to be broken weld in the stainless tub. Three of the shocks can be replaced from the front, the one under the motor can only be accessed from the back of the machine, which means it has to be pulled out away from the wall. Taking the old ones out is kind of a pain, they don't twist off easily and there is little room to use tool. Putting the new ones in is easy, they just twist into place.

I had units stacked so I had to take the dryer off, pull 3 screws from back, slide cover back and the water valve is right there, easy to change. I have not had the problem since then.

I purchased a new bellows from this site I followed their instructions. Just tricky getting the inner clamp on aligned and tightened.

As easy as 123 two torx screws removed old pieces and install the new one and like that ready for another 15 years.

Turned off power, turned off water supply, removed water supply hoses, removed top of washer, photographed electrical connections, removed intake hose, removed screw from part to the machine and removed valve and replaced. Reverse order to install new part and test water supply.

Go to u tube video gives instructions. Very easy to replace

turned off water valves , disconnected and placed hoses into small bucket . removed top . I then removed screw off old valve , shimmied it out of the hole , removed hose with pliers , slipped off white set of plugs and then black set .. Then I put hose on new valve , placed plugs ( black & white ones ) be sure to mark the correct side .. for me two white were on the right side of valve and black on left side .. placed valve back into its respective spot . attached the screw .. note I sled mine to the right just a bit and all lined up perfectly . Attached hoses , ran test cycle on warm , cold , hot .. All hoses were hooked up correctly and leak free . put lid back on and perfect .. The hardest part , was moving the shelves above my washer , really was super simple . Watch the video twice. You will be able to do it in no time. Saved me 245$ . From my appliance shop the part 150.$ 100 service call and the install fee $ since the install was so easy couldn't be much but .. Its a guesstimate ..You can do it !

My hubby and I replaced the part in about 20 minutes, including moving the washing machine. We love doing household projects like this. We're a great team and putting in this part showed how good we work together. Thanks for the quick response too!