11028082700 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I removed the screws holding the broken hinges and put the new hinges on. It only took a few minutes.

need to get washer turned on side where you can work underneath the machine. This job is alot easy if you get where you can see good and have plenty of room to work. You have to unhoook the wire from the old pump and then take the two mounting screws off from there you unhook each hose by squeezing clamp together and sliding backwards away from pump. A pair of needle nose pliers can make this process easier if the clamps are turned in an hard to get to position. You mount the new pump the same way as taking off the damaged pump. Take a screwdriver to help you slide the clamps up onto the new pump makeing sure the sleeves are completely over the new pump fittings and the clamps are slid up evenly, so you want have any leaks. Then replaces wiring harness and mounting screws.

Easy repair. Went to You Tube and saw PartSelect video. The best instructions...should make a link from parts page to video of install. Also replaced Heat element on Dryer. Watched video first.

I removed the screws from old hinge that had broke. The piece came right out with ease. I slid the new hinge in to the hole that it went in. No struggles with ease. Lined up the screw holes and put the screws back in. Finished! Works like a charm.

First off always remember to empty all pockets, coins etc ruin pumps.shut off water supply, unhooked water lines and drain into pan.tilted machine forward so i could work on pump which is located lower left. drain pan under pump area, removed 2 rubber water hose's 3 5/16 screws with nut driver. Very carefully un clip rear of housing and removed wire harness. installed new pump

Went to youtube.com and watched the video that took you step by step in replacing the lid lock assembly.

PLASTIC motor housing gets hot and become loose. causing bearing to spin and make noise . Replaced motor that was quick and simple by removing 3 screws and 2 hose clamps , pluged up motor and begain washing again with no problem . Just wish motor housing was not plastic .

Unplug washer. Use scraper to depress spring steel catches under top cover of cabinet. Raise and support cover. Remove lock mechanism from cover using nut driver and remove switch and cable from spring tension clips. The last cable stay is zip tie/plug; pry it from hole in cover. Don't worry about saving this cable stay as the new switch has one pre installed. Before lowering cover place an object such as a rolled up towel over the cabinet spring catches to prevent engagement. Then lower cover. Locate two screw on back of control panel and remove with nut driver. Just below control panel on back side of cabinet is a single screw securing a small cover plate. Remove screw and plate. Lift control panel and turn it over. Locate plug for the latch switch and disconnect it. Then set control panel back in place. Raise and support top of washer again and pull faulty switch and cable assembly from washer. Attach new switch assembly to top cover and place cable into spring clip and insert plastic cable stay into hole. Route the connector through the opening the faulty one was pulled from. You may now close the top of the washer. Lift and turn over control panel connect new switch plug and set control panel back in place. Replace screws on back of panel and the small cover and screw. Plug washer power cord in and you should be done.

The instructions displayed the parts location and and some instruction. The top of the unit will release and pivot up after the two catches at the front are presed in at the front seam. The catches are located about 6 inches in from the sides. Before lifting the top though you should secure the lid to the top. I used some masking tape. Pivot the top up and brace the top to prevent it from falling back too far or forward over your work access. I leaned the top back against the wall behind the washer. Once the top was secure I began by lifting one conner of the tub assembly so that a corner dampner assembly could be removed. The top of the dampener assembly has a loop which grabes the plastic cup at the top frame of the washer. Lift the tub assembly (about 30lbs) on one corner and as the hook becomes free rotate the plastic cup to disengage the hook from the cup. To make it easier to work inside the washer frame I used the bar clamp to hold the tub asembly to one side so that I could reach along the damper assembly to pop loose the top retainer at the tub by pushing down with a screwdriver. Once the dampener assembly was loose it can be removed and the new one inserted in its place. I repeated these steps for each dampener and was done in about 30 minutes. You may want to note there is a wire clip on the right rear dampener and this was easily removed and reinstalled on the new assembly.

To start out, I ordered two parts for a washer, a water valve and a recirculation pump. I found out that one of the solenoid switches went bad on the valve body. I tried to find just this switch but found out that you have to buy the whole valve assembly just to get one of the switches. The recirculation pump was making a really bad noise when it would run. The problem with the pump, the impeller that pushes the water out of the pump was in pieces in the pump head housing. I paid to rush the delivery so the washer was not unusable for every long. The parts showed up as planned with one problem. One of the solenoid switches was not attached to the valve body, it was broken off of the valve body. I called the service number that was on the packing slip. The lady I spoke with about the broken part apologized and quickly placed another order with the same part. Down side was she could not get it sent out that day because it was late afternoon on a Friday and the shipping department was closed. So the earliest I would receive the part would be the following Tuesday. She did refund my rush delivery cost, so i paid for just standard delivery. I had the recirculation pump on the Friday I was hoping for but still could not get the washer running until I received the water valve the following Tuesday. I told the lady I understand her hands are tied about shipping the part out that day, Since there was nobody there to ship it. I also understand that sometimes things do get broke in transit. The part was delivered on the following Tuesday as promised. I opened up the package to inspect it. This time the part inside the package was packed a little different and a little more secure. I was glad the service department was easy to deal with, very respectful and willing to correct the problem. All and All The repair went really well, had no problems installing the parts what so ever. (To make things a little easier to remember where they go)Leave the old wire harness intact with the old water valve when you remove it. Once the new water valve is install you can reference how to install the new wire harness from the old water valve. The pump had 3 screws and 2 hose clamps to remove it. It is easier if you can tilt the washer forward (just a little) to change out the pump. You can change out the pump without tilting the washer, just easier if tilted. I would order from partSelect again. I would recommend my friends and family to order from partSelect.

It was not easy but I dit my sell

reemplace the lid lock assembly

Tilt the machine over to access the bottom I rested it on a dolly.remove the rotor with an allen wrench .then rmove the 4 bolts on the stator .then lift it off the main shaft and unlug the sensor wires . just reverse the process to install the new one (be sure to allign the arrows on the sensor and the stator when reistalling. I wish i could say this solved my problem .my machine runs untill the spin cycle then it starts shaking and gives the uneven load alarm again.

I read the directions on this web site and was able to install the new drainage pump in about 30 minutes. I suprised myself. Thanks.

The rod kit fixed the issue. I cant really explain how I did it, because I dint know if I did it the right way.