11045972403 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Remove three screws on bottom panel lift up and remove panel.The water pump in right in front. One screw holds it in place and the input and output hoses are on the back side.The hose clamps are a little hard to take off I found that before taking the one screw off the pump remove these two lines.Putting the pump back in secure the pump with the one screw. The output line is easy the intake line can be a bit of a more work to get it on because the rubber is so thin.Getting this hose and clamp was tough. Most of all use a wet vac to remove water in washer and vac out the line to drain doing this will be water free during replacing water pump.Run a cycle to make sure the lins do not leak. The other is the people that has posted this replacement are very good

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

Easily. 4 Screws. 2 Clamps.

Had the old pump out - 1 screw and two hose clamp to unhook and an electrical wire to pull out - couldnt been any easier - when new one came took 5 mins to install - did a load to make sure pump worked before put it all back together

Followed directions as shown in your repair video, having done this for the first time it took a bit longer than a repairman would have but was able to git-r-done. The most difficult part was fitting the adjustable wire back around the front of the washer, in the video it is made to look really easy however in real life it is a little more difficult and could not be attached so easily and took quite a bit of time to make sure it was attached correctly. thank you for your help.

1. Remove bottom panel (3 screws below). 2. Remove top panel (3 screws back). 3. Remove detergent dispenser (remove T screw in front.) 4. Carefully remove control panel is plastic so be careful not to break it. 5. Pull broken bellow from front and spring loaded clamp will come lose. 6. Push away bellow. 7. Remove cables from door lock. 8. Remove front panel screws (4 - 2 on top and 2 in bottom). 9. Unscrew bellow's clamp with flat screw driver or not driver. 10. Remove worn bellow. 11. Bellow has notch on top (Use as reference to replace. 11. Clean all surfaces. 12. Install new bellow to drum. 13. Screw clamp over of bellow not too tight. Don't want to break the seat. 14. Replace all in the reverse order and for the front of the bellow refer to my previous article (story) on front latch replacement.

Removed the outer spring with pliers. Pushed the bellow into the drum. Loosened the clamp on the bellow with a stub nose screwdriver. Removed the bellow. lined bellow up with soap fiting. Reversed procedure to reinstall.

Inserted new baffle in washer and slide in place.

Lined the new one up with one hand;(cold beer in the other), snapped it to place, finished.

Pull spring wire on front. Remove large hose lamp at tub. Reinstall in reverse order.

2 clamps and its off, problem is if you have average size hands you will struggle in getting the back clamp on and off.

I had units stacked so I had to take the dryer off, pull 3 screws from back, slide cover back and the water valve is right there, easy to change. I have not had the problem since then.

Shocks are the #1 recommendation for this problem, but they were not the solution. The problem turned out to be broken weld in the stainless tub. Three of the shocks can be replaced from the front, the one under the motor can only be accessed from the back of the machine, which means it has to be pulled out away from the wall. Taking the old ones out is kind of a pain, they don't twist off easily and there is little room to use tool. Putting the new ones in is easy, they just twist into place.

First I removed the retainer ring that holds the outside bellows on the frame of the front washer.
I then pushed the bellows inside of the drum of the washing machine in-order to get to the clamp that holds the bellows on the inside of the drum. To pull the clump I had to use a stubby screwdriver and socket drive to loosen the clamp. Once the clamp is loosen I was able to pull the bellows off, of the drum and out of the washing machine. Installation was the reverse of removal.

Inputs on your web site of other people who had replaced this valve assembly helped.
Remove top cover from washer - three socket head screws on rear of machine, (need to move washer forward for access)
Turn off both hot and cold manual shutoff vales on wall. Run washer to take water pressure off from hoses (turn on for water to turn on , and then turn washer off).
Remove both hoses (mark/remember which side is hot/cold, as valve assembly has no markings), from valve assembly, had to use channel locks/adjustable wrench to remove nuts as they were really tight. Check to see if gaskets were OK, would have been nice, if these gaskets are supplied with new valve assembly. Remove screw which holds valve assembly to washer. Slide valve assembly slightly side ways to free it from bulkhead panel. Remove last hose assembly inside washer, attached to valve; remove four wires from solenoids. Keep track of wires (which solenoid).
Replace valve, reconnect internal hoses and wires; install valve assemble on bulkhead panel; attach screw; reconnect hoses; turn on manual valves; check for leaks; briefly turn on washer, check for internal leaks; install cover; push back washer in place.