11027172600 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

to change it was 1,2,3
thank you guys

The machine was not designed for quick repairs. The top, front and sides of the machine are all one piece. I had to remove the screws on the lower back access panel. Then remove the water lines, ground screw and outlet hose. I then had to remove the two screws holding the control panel in place. I then bumped the control panel loose. I could then move the back access panel, which is the entire back of the machine, upward to remove it from the clips, located under the control panel. The back access panel will then move away from the machine about 3-4 inches. From the back of the machine, I then had my son tilt the top and sides of the machine forward, leaving enough space for me to reach through the gap and remove the ground screw from the switch. I could then remove the entire switch by pulling it loose from the clips under the top housing and unplugged it from the connection. I then could attach the new ground wire and holding the new switch in place, I had my son secure the switch to the washer. I then had to clip the new switch along the inside of the housing and plug it in to the connection. We then had to realign the sides of the washer with the base, as we lowered it back into place. Holding them in place, we could then reattach the back access panel, loosely, by replacing the two screws on the lower back panel.. Then, aligning the clips that are located under the control panel, we attached the top of the access panel and tightened the screws at the bottom to secure the entire access panel in place. At this point, we could reattach the control panel, water lines, ground wire and outlet hose. It would have saved about two hours of time if the top of the washer was hinged and could have been tilted back to expose the lid switch and tub. Removing the water lines and the outlet hose also allows water to spill, as the tub drains. PartSelect was extremely quick in getting the switch to me. I ordered it on Friday and it arrived on Saturday morning. With five people in our household, clothes washing is a daily chore. We didn't miss a beat. Now, if the engineers at KitchenAid could use a little common sense in designing their products it would make repairs quicker and with less cleanup.

Watching videos identified what parts to purchase.
Once identified - WATCH EACH PARTS VIDEO (again).
Lessons learned:
1) better to NOT tilt the washer
2) watch (more than once) and learn from the videos
3) must difficult step was loosening the tub retaining nut without having a spanner wrench (used a hammer and a short / wide blade screwdriver)
4) ended up being the tub support was not sitting properly in the suspension plate
5) cleaned and changed parts while apart
6) running as good as new

Thanks!!

Disassembled top control console and surrounding sheet metal cabinet per the video from this site. i then used a screw driver to carefully pry up each wear pad location individually and inserted the wood wedge. to about 1 1/2 inch height. rwmoved the old wear pads and popped in the new pads one by one. Closed up the unit and tested the machine . It ran like new. No more noise or viberation

This was the perfect replacement part for my lid switch that went bad. The replacement was a little difficult; only because you have to disassble the control panel to disconnect the lid switch pig tail connector. Also, the grounding screw is screwed in a position where you can not get to the screw, so the best method is to cut the wire and connect it to the new grounding wire on the replacement lid switch and use a lot of electrical tape and I even covered the electrical tape in silicone to water proof it just in case.

I followed installation instructions given by other users on here and it went perfect. Saved myself the expense of buying a whole new washing machine just because of a stupid plastic cheaply made lid switch.

As far as this website/company, however, I am very happy with the easy of finding the correct part, the availability of the part and the very fast shipping I received. And of course, the best benefit is the cost of part versus the cost of a whole new machine (which I am sure Whirlpool had in mind). So, congrats to PartSelect.com. Amazing customer service and that system they use to find the parts you need is very good indeed.

Thanks PartsSelect.com and thanks to the user users who posted the instructions to replacing this part.

First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws.
Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all
Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.

Followed the video. Removed the case and holder clips (not really needed) and replaced the springs. It did nothing to stop the problem and there are no more fixes.

Followed instructions other customers provided for hose installation. Haven't installed agitator dogs yet. Need to watch the video on your web site.

Disassembled lower part found nothing wrong.
Started disassembly from the top. Immediately ran into trouble not knowing exactly how the tub was anchored to the drive. Once I got down to the tube and drive block there was nothing I could do to go further. I guessed it was a press fit onto the drive, but there were many instructions and I couldn't be sure. Parts Select expanded drawing was the most useful tool; it was correct omitting a few details. Anyhow, cleaning out my garage I found one of my old gear pullers that I could ring to complete the disassembly. All the sudden I was in business, pulling the washer drum off the drive block and shaft, getting down to the leaky lower seal. A that point it was just a matter of cleaning everything up and buying all the rusted out parts to reassemble. I spent $150-200 on parts, but its completely rebuilt now and runs like a charm. Probably have around 20-50 hours all told, into the repair. Most of this was reading instructions, watching videos, and trying to figure out the rest (3). Doing the actual work spread over time until my wife and sons threatened to throw the thing out. Never. Once I decide I'm gonna do something, I do it. LOL!

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

Removed the outside body of washer. Used 1/2 plywood between drum and wear pads to make space to pry out pads with screwdriver. Replaced suspension springs and tub spring (use waterproof grease on end of springs. Put washer back together and tested. Problem solved washer not walking all over floor anymore. Thanks for you help.

I removed the cover for the softener dispenser on the top of the agitator. Then reached in and removed the cover of the nut and washer which was very sticky and sealed with an o-ring. This took a bit of pressure. Then used a socket wrench with an extension to loosen the bolt and took the whole agitator out of the machine. Then I set the agitator on the floor and with a fine 12 inch long screw driver released the catches while turning and pulling the agitatior with my other hand and holding the lower agitatior on the floor with my feet. I then turned the upper part over and removed the cogs and holding mechanism.
Then I reversed the process after replacing the cogs with the new part. 25 minutes total.

Put new one on work good, but now can't pump no more .the problem now is the spin cycal broke and I not going to fix it. Thank for the part work good.

Found leveling spring loose on bottom of washer, the sheet metal on bottom of cabinet ad rusted through. Drilled new hole in sheet metal and installed new leveling spring. Greased hole with blue marine grease so it will last another 40 years.

Popped off agitator cover discovered worn and broken 'dogs'. Decided to replace complete agitator assembly due to age of machine (25 + years). 7/16 socket, removed nut and agitator assembly, installed new assembly with included nut.