11027172600 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Removed the clips. Pulled out the old pump. After trying to get the new pump on the shaft of the motor, I realized that some corrosion had built up on the motor shaft. I got a small tack hammer and very lightly tapped the shaft to remove the corrosion. The pump then slid on the shaft with no problem. Replaced clips. Job complete.
The corrosion on the shaft cracked the plastic piece where the shaft connects and this is what caused the problem in the first place.

First off it was much easier after watching the video that was on PartSelect website. It was a very good description of how to do the repair. The main thing is to have enough room to be able to move the washer around and be able to get around it.. Our washer and dryer are in our 1/2 bath so we had to completely unhook the dryer to move it out of the way to have room to work around the washer.. It was still a tight squeeze but it was pretty quick and easy once we got the area where the lid switch is attached. The only trouble we had was putting the front of the washer back on the tub correctly. That was mainly in part with not having enough room to move around. It was easy enough that is was worth saving the service call from the repairman. The most help was watching the video. Thanks PartSelect for your help.

Washing machine is in a closet - tight space - was able to disconnect switch panel following other instructions, 2 screws on back, vertical // 2 screws near top corner on back, horizontal.

Pulled switch box off, could not get top sheet of washer off though, needed to detach side panel from back panel and lean the washing machine exterior panels fwd, and reach in from the back to disconnect the swicth ground, then pulled the lines, and disconnected the switch.

Then while still leaning the unit fwd, reconnected the ground for the new switch assemply, got it in the small clips leading back to control panel, fed the switch back into the control panel and reconnected.

Then, leaned unti back into place and got the panels lined up again, reset the control box, fiddles with the s clamps, and just tightened up the 4 screws.

Done.

Followed some very handy instructions I found on the web.

First unplug machine and next back off the screws in the back of the plastic end caps holding down the control panel.
Then slip a putty knife under each of the front corners to release the panel so it can flip back
exposing the lid switch wiring harness clip connector.
Release the lid switch clip connector from the wiring harness.
Next release the two brass colored clips that hold the top to the sides.
Remove sides.
Remove screws holding lid switch and unclip switch from back of top nd from under top .
Remove switch and replace with new one.
Reverse order reassembly making sure the four base tabs of the sides are in the four slots in the machine base frame.
Reinstall brass clips.
Make sure new switch is clipped to the control panel harness.
Screw down corner screws in control panel end caps.
Done.

Thank you PartsSelect for your pormpt, courteous, and informative service.
You also had the lowest price and fastest delivery.
Well done!

flip machine back remove two spring clamps and hoses remove two spring clamps and water pump save $500.+on a new washer

First I removed the softener bin by pulling it up and off, then I removed the plastic seal by pulling it up and out, then I removed the 1/2 inch bolt with a ratchet and extension, then I removed the upper and lower agitator assembly from the machine and seperated the two by putting my feet on the lower agitator to hold it to the floor and pulling the upper agitator fast and firmly.
Sitting on top of the lower agitator I found the dog ear assembly. I pulled the dog ear assembly off and removed the yellow cap and existing dog ears.
Assembly was reverse.

Replaced AGITATOR DIRECTIONAL COGS (4) looking instruction video . Replaced CLUTCH LINING KIT following video of this site "WASHER REPAIR-REPLACING THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY". Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER and NEUTRAL DRIVE ASSEMBLY as follow: 1)CLUTCH Assembly and motor removed, took the GEARCASE on a bench vise to hold in place and the long shaft up side. You can get help from other person to hold secured in place instead a vise.2)Following a youtube video I tested gearcase with a reversible drill using DIRECT DRIVE MOTOR COUPLING PART next To transmission side instead of electrical motor. Drill turning counter clockwise drive the long shaft oscillating (it agitate via agitator cogs). Drill turning clockwise run the exterior sleeved part around shaft (upper side of metal gear inside gearcase and fixed on top to clutch to get washer spin). My experience was didn't rotate so we had to take apart gearcase cover.3)Unscrewed and removed gearcase cover. Cover was sticked by old seal gasket so a screwdriver helped me to remove it.4)Cleaned joint removing old gasket.5)Repeating drill test I realized big nylon gear did'nt rotated and removed uppercut clip with pin pliers with care for not lose the pin. Removed the next washer, the plastic gear and found a plastic part with a tooth broken. This part is with NEUTRAL DRAIN ASSEMBLY so replaced assembly following part instructions. I recommend take pictures in order to reassemling and use ALLEN WRENCH 5/32'' inches.6)Fill up to half of gearcase with 16 ounces (about 1/2 of case) of gear oil supplied by PARTSELECT or automotive gear oil SAE 85w90 or SAE 90.7)Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER. HARD TO REMOVED AND REPLACE! Take care not break!. I had to use a piece of metal tube and a vise.8)Applied automotrice black seal gasket silicone around the cover joint and case.9) Replaced the cover and reversal instruction video.THANKS to this site I get excellent service and Enjoyed with my toy.

I followed the online instructions to remove the shell and attempted to remove the drum, but not having the special wrench to remove the special nut, tried using a screwdriver and hammer, which failed to loosen the nut. I then started examining the the undercarriage and saw that I could replace the springs without removing the tub and did that. In the course of replacing the springs I discovered I could also access the wear pads by lifting the drum off of the undercarriage and placing a block to hold it above the pads. I was able to pop the old pads out by tapping underneath them with a hammer. The new pads were then installed and the weight of the drum popped them in. It was necessary to lift the drum assembly three times for each of the three pads.

While taking apart my washing machine to clean the plastic basket I discovered the 3 main seals down the agitator were completely disintegrated and water was leaking onto the motor and onto the floor. The seals are a tight fit but slide into place easily with lubrication. When putting everything back together a bit of lubrication will be necessary as well. The leak is gone and my nearly 30 year old washer is working as well as the day it came off of the assembly line.

Unplugged the appliance. turned off inlet water and removed hoses. popped the cap off hiding the bolt that keeps the agitator in place and pulled the agitator off. tipped the washer on its front . disconnected the Wire harness. removed the 3 bolts that hold the pump, motor,clutch, (drive assembly in other words). pulled the Drive assembly out of its resting spot removed the bad clutch and replaced it with the new one. then reassembled in reverse order.

placed washer on side and installed new pads
and returned washer upright

Tilt machine on its side,snap off the two retaining straps and remove the pump and sanded the shaft on the electric drive motor to remove rust ,Install new pump and retaining straps and unit now running great.

Took the agitator out and gearbox off unhook wires from motor and take off water pump, replaced the parts and put back together. Pretty easy to fix. However, I still haven't got my problem fixed. Originally the washer wouldn't spin after the rinse. I put on a new coupler and it worked for a few loads, then something smelled hot and started stinkin the house up so I opened the washer lid and smoke rolled out. Turned it off. Took the moter off and checked it and it would barely turn at all. Replaced the motor with a new one. Still wouldn't spin. Put on a new clutch assembly. Still wouldn't spin. Bought a new capacitor thinking that would do it. Still don't SPIN!!! (The ring and washer I replaced was just a casualty, not any of the problem).

3 online people recommended tilting the machine on the side and replacing the 3 suspension springs. Someone else recommended changing the tub pads. That is the wrong approach. It is actually easier to remove the case than turn the machine on the side. Once you do it once or twice it takes less than 2 minutes and it doesn't distort the suspension. You don't even have to disconnect the hoses. When I originally examined the machine lying on it's side I saw that the tub balance spring was still attached to the tub but the other end had detached. I looked for the place to reattach it. I found a place on the glide plate. Unfortunately this was the wrong place and the machine continued to bang away. When I realized that the spring had to be attached to the lower frame rather than the glide plate (one week of looking). I even wrote to the Repair guru. Once I found my mistake the repair took 5 minutes and no tools other than the phillips screwdriver to take out the 2 screws for the case. I replaced the tub balancing spring for good measure. The machine works great.

Once I finally found the part I needed, the repair was very simple and took only a few minutes. Thanks to the very helpful operator to walk me through the diagram to find the corresponding number for the part. I really appreciate your help!