11046747801 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

removed three screens on lower front panel removed hoses from pump after opening drain/filter to remove water slid pump forward and out unplugged pump wiring harness reverse to install

I had replaced the flowmeter, but that didn't solve the problem, so I ordered the hot/cold solenoid fill part. Other than ONE screw that was unique -- the back retaining screws were nut driver screws, the one retaining screw was a torx which, of course, couldn't be seen unless you pulled the washer all the way out. Unscrewed that, unhooked the hose clamp with pliers and worried the hose off, removed the four electrical connections (which were TIGHT) and replaced the part. Turned on the water and was dismayed to get a d/l error code. After some colorful language learned from my drill sergeant 40 years ago, I realized that was "door lock" and closed the door tightly. Ran great and the Mrs. thinks I'm a hero.

Remove the two screws holding the hinge to the washer body. Lift up on the hinge to remove from the washer. Remove all the screws holding the inner door piece to the outer cover. Remove the old hinge, replace with the new one. Put the two door pieces back together and tighten the screws. Place hinge back in on the washer body and push down. Replace screw at top and bottom. Close door and start using.

The repair went very easy after locating the repair manual inside of the washer. The service manual gave all of the codes that the machine can give. Checked the F-70 code and it stated to unplug the motor control unit. Once that was unplugged the led lights came back on and it acted like it could run again. New unit put in in less than 15 minutes. I'd suggest to have it over nights because the unit I received through UPS was very badly damaged on the outside but plugged it in and it still worked. Two weeks running and a lot of laundry later; still going well.

Unplugged the machene. Removed the top cover (3 screws on back top). The pressure switch is back on the right wall. Turned it clockwise until its top almost pointed forward (at me) and it could be removed. Disconnected if from its wiring (pushed small tab down with my nail and pulled it out); and from the black tube (secured the tube with scotch tape, so that it wouldn't slip down inside the machene while I work). Unpacked the new switch, connected it to the wiring and to the tube, pushed it in place (square(ish) hole) until it clicked, put the top cover back in place (needs to be slid in front) and screwd three bolts holding it into their places.

This was so easy to swap the parts out. The plastic hooks that hold the pieces inside our washer had just worn out. We put our washer and dryer through LOTS of use and I am amazed it has hold on this long! The broken piece just popped out and the new piece just snapped right in. Thank you for your speedy shipping and the great price.

I did not replace the pump body. I just removed the motor with the 3 screws. Put the new one on. This way I did not need to mess with the hose clamps.

Did it myself, found the model # from your website, received the part, it slid right on,yay, no more tears in my sheets!

I opened the top by taking four screws from the back and lifted the top. The part to be replaced was clearly in view. I opened the clamps on the hoses, pulled the hoses off, removed the wires, and reversed the process with the new part. The washer works great now! I ordered the part on a Friday, and it was delivered the next day, even though I didn't pay for overnight!

Very simple repair. Lined up the baffle tabs with the drum slots. Pushed the tabs into the slots, pulled the drum baffle towards the opening of the wahser until it seated. You will hear aclick.

Very simple repair had to remove door from Washer, loosen the seals so that I could remove the old hinge. Inserted new hinge place the door and hinge on brackets and tightened the screws. I was very pleased with the fast action in getting me my parts, less than 24 hours.Thank You.

I unplugged the power and tilted the washer back and removed the kick panel. I then unscrewed the pump trap access and set aside. I used the shop vac to remove the remaing water from the washer to the drain pump, unplugged power to the pump, removed the discharge hose and suction hose. After everything was removed, I removed the pump. Everything I read said to take the pump loose before removing everything, it just worked better for me to take everything loose with the pump secure. Going back together I mounted the new pump, plugged it back in (I did not have to remove anything from the plug to use it on the new pump as the insert indicated), installed the discharge hose and the suction hose. I found it easier to rotate the clamp a bit on the sucttion hose to allow me to use my right hand to depress the clamp to get it back in place. Replaced the kick panel, lowered the washer back in place, plugged it in and ran it through a cycle, worked great.

Unplugged electric cord and turned off water supply. Remove 3 screws @ rear of washer and removed top panel. Removed clamps on hoses and electrical connector to flow meter, removed and replaced with new flow meter. Replaced the top panel, turned on water supply and plugged unit in. Finished in less than 15 minutes. Saved myself several hundred $

replaced drain pump.Saved 200$

The new piece just took seconds to install. You had to set the piece slightly farther back then where it belongs, and with a slight downward pressure, just slide the part toward yourself until you hear it click into place. About 5 seconds and no tools required.