11074414240 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Replaced lid switch, but problem still continued.

Replace front legs. Very easy fix.

We got the parts, watched your video a couple of times and then began the repair. It went well with one exception. None of my socket extensions were long enough to work well. The required length might be added to the video and the printed installation instructions. Also it would have nice to have been able to order a small tube of the recommended lubricant. Overall I was very pleased. Jack

Order the part and put the new part on and put the washing machine cabinet back on and check the washer for the water filled up and then it's starting to go on the spin cycles.

Unplugged the power while the washer was running, and the water kept on running. The water inlet valve was stuck open. I removed the inlet valve and you cold blow air thru it, it should be closed with no power applied.Ordered replacement from this site it was a perfect fit. As far as the removal and installation procedure, just follow the video as presented on this site. Good Look.

The valve was easy to change, but we as homeowners should change the hot and cold hoses just like they say you should every 5 years. The hoses grew to the water valve and it was almost a disaster. After cutting the end with a dremmel and clamping visegrips on it I finally got it loose. After that it went smooth. Thanks for getting me the part so fast.

1- Unplugged washer. 2- Turned off water supply to hoses hot and cold. (marked hoses H C) 3- Unscrewed hoses to washer. 4-Used phillips head screw driver to take out screws(2) at corners of washer. 5- Slid top of washer forward and lifted top off. 6- Took out retaining clips on each side of washer. 7- Slid frame of washer outward exposing rear panel of washer for access to water inlet valve. 8- Used 1/4" drive to take out screw to inlet valve. 9- Removed inlet valve, unplugged the two connectors and removed clamp from hose to valve. 10- Replaced new inlet valve and reversed the process to assemble washer back together. Total time for repair, about 45 minutes. I now have full running cold water to washer. Thanks guys for the video you provided. Would purchase again if needed. Thanks again!!! Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket Part Number: PS334646

Followed by installation on line

I got a few hints from YouTube (how to remove the washing machine casing) and rest was very simple

received valve as ordered a simple installation. everything went well.home owner can do this repair

Unfortunately after i replaced the new switch the drier worked well. After it stopped for the 2nd time we wanted to put a load and start the swit lost contact. It was not working.It lost the contact with the circuit. No clicking sound the drier not functional. I guess need a new switch?

Raise the top off of the dryer with a flat blade screwdriver in each front corner of the dryer. Disconnect power to the dryer. Remove old switch and install new switch. Test door and proper operation of dryer.

unplug unit first Took water & drain hose loose, used two wheel dolly, took washer out on patio. Removed water hose. Removed two screws # 49 an laid back control unit then Removed 2 #6 Clips Top of unit, then pried back unit cover out enough to remove Water valve after removing #4 screw that holds unit to back panel ,removed hose clamp #21 an electric connections, install new water valve and put back together..DO NOT TAKE BOTTOM SCREWS FROM BACK PANEL, if so the bottom will drop.. Intake cold water valve was half stopped up. Also new water lines.

unscrewed the back removd thr two screws for the element unhooked the hose to machiine unpluged the electric to element and than replaced new element and plugged electric to element and hooked back the hose and replaced screws too the back and replaced back an screws
titled wash machine up hooked hoses for the water and plugged electric and put drain hose back to drain done

It is sometimes tricky to figure out which screws and panels to remove to get to the parts you want to fix. Older Whirlpools used to have a lift up top that would allow access. This one required the back to come off (or at least partially off).

First, pull out the washer for access. Turn off water to the machine, and unplug the electrical cord. Remove the drain hose using a large pliers to pinch the clamp and then pull the hose off. Remove water lines at the back of washer, again with a large pliers (if needed). Remove two screws at the bottom of back panel. Remove two screws at the top corners of back panel that hold some sort of plastic hinge piece to the control housing. Remove two screws on either end of the bottom front of the control housing on top of the machine. The back can now be lifted free (with some effort) from the sheet metal tabs that hold the bottom of the back in place. Reach in the bottom side with the pliers and disconnect the large drain line clamp so you have more room to swing the back out. There also might be a little plastic thingy to twist out of a slot in the back (maybe a vibration damper?) You will see the water inlet valve just inside the back on the side. The inlet hose connections are actually a part of the inlet valve. It is now possible to reach in from the side and disconnect the small water feed line from the inlet valve with a pliers, and disconnect the electrical plugs from the valve. Remove the two screws holding the valve to the back and remove the valve.

Reassembly is actually easier than removal. Don't forget to replace the water hose washers or they will probably leak. If the hoses look bad, just buy a new set. They can be had quite cheap.

Good luck and prepare to be proud of how well your "new" washer now works and how much money you saved!

p.s. PartSelect Rocks!