79631402410 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Looked on line for instructions, took my time and the repair went very easy. Just be careful not to drop screws in tub.

On repair of (replacing one of the MEF62462103 hinges) the previous comments and instructions were good and fairly accurate. However, in addition to having to remove the two screws on the top front so the entire top assemble can be lifted, there are two short screws on the back of the washer towards the top on each side that need to be removed. That way you can tilt the entire top up enough to get to the two underneath phillips head screws for each hinge. It’s okay to leave all the hoses connected and good to have a second person hold the top tilted up so you can get to the hinge screws. It took about 30 minutes to change one hinge for me and my helper.

Removed flimsy, easily breakable panels (one on each side), that cover the hinges for the top lid. Removed screws that cover the pins in the door top, that fit in the swivel. Removed broken door.

Placed pins in new door into swivel brackets, replaced covers that hold the door correctly in place. Tightened in place with screws. Pot panels back into pace to cover the swivel mechanism.

Job complete.
Sorry for the written confusion, don’ see a way to attach photos that make it simple to understand.

Our Samsung HE washer started making a grinding noise and stopping at the end of the rinse/spin cycle. I had replaced the clutch and seal 2 years ago and it sounded like it was going out again, however we were not getting the gunk inside the tub like before (seal) and the machine was throwing the tE error code when it stopped which it did not do last time. According to the manual this meant a thermistor error and the solution was "Call for Service". The machine is 9 years old and way out of warranty so....uh No! I ordered the new thermistor for $15 plus shipping to correct the tE code before looking to replace the clutch again or get a new machine. The new thermistor arrived, leaned the machine on its back, unplug one connector, remove two screws and pull the old one out of it's hole, push the new one in, replace two screws and the connector and GO! Problem fixed! No tE code, no stopping, no grinding noise. As best I can tell, the old thermistor was faulting during the spin cycle and the machine went into emergency stop mode which made the grinding noise. It was not the clutch or bearing at all. Most of the repair time was moving the machine out and disconnecting lines so I could lean it onto its back. Note: If your machine is stopping before draining, it will have water inside the tub which will drain out of the hole where the thermistor goes when you pull the old one out. It has an o-ring to seal it, so just expect a little water to come out and be ready to catch all the water or put the new one in quickly.

The base assembly was easy to repair tip the washer on its side and took the screws out the bottom and two wires and a sensor off the old base assembly that was broken and replaced it the the way I took it off easy install. And they got great costumer service as well will be back for other parts.

I had a hard time removing the agitator, had to get thin prybar to get a hold of washplate. After I removed washplate, I found that the shaft that the washplate attaches to was actually worn out. What used to be a spline was smooth. So I ordered a new clutch assembly. There are a lot of bolts that hold the clutch assembly on to the basket. There are a lot of videos on Utube that will walk you through step by step. The only problem I encountered with this was removing the nut that holds the basket to the tub. One video said it was reverse thread, which it wasn’t. You can check the thread on new clutch assembly to see which way is correct. After I put back together. Works like new.

The instructions received from partselect.com were really good. There are two long screws located on either side of the front control panel. Simply removed the small covers to expose the two screws. Then remove both screws. At that point you can lift up (carefully) the front panel high enough to gain access underneath to remove the two Philip head screws holding the hinge. Be careful not to drop the screws down in the machine cavity. Lift out the old hinge and insert the new one. Re-install the two Phillip head screws into the new hinge. Let the front panel back down and re-install the two long screws. You’re done!

raised the front of washer by hand (literally) and placed two 2x4 blocks under front lip for support. reached up inside washer cabinet and unscrewed the broken leg piece upwards into the cabinet. this was the only way I could get the broken piece out without some specialized tool to reach it from the underside. replacement with the new leg was a breeze.

Removed 2 hidden screws from the top panel.
Lifted top panel.
The first screw came out easy, the second one gave me trouble.
It is best to help a helper who can hold the lid open as much as possible.
To insert the new screws takes patience as they might fall very easily.
Overall, not that difficult - just need patience.

Description provided on website was that repair was similar to another washing machine where you press in on spring clips to release top of machine to access hinge. Not correct at all.

There are two screws on top of machine that are covered by caps. Remove caps and then remove screws. Lift up / prop up machine top and you have easier access to 2 screws that hold plastic hinge in place. Remove screws and replace hinge and replace screws. Took me longer to figure out I had incorrect directions than it did to replace hinge.

Very close to the installation video online at Parts Select. Removed the back panel, unclipped the hose from the inner fitting and replaced with the rear hose. Why it didn;t leak on the inside is interesting as there was no clip on the at the inner fitting.
The one difference from the existing install video online was that I didn't have to tip the washer over ~75 degs before replacing. I instead found that I could put to cinder blocks under the back edge to replace the drain hose. This made the job quicker without having to worry about having a box for it to rest on (with any risk of falling to the floor).

Removed both slow closing latches (3 Phillips head screws each) and lifted off the lid.
Pried off the two plastic caps on the top front of the machine. They are about 1/2" or so in diameter and I used a very thin flat head screwdriver to remove.
Unscrewed the Phillips head screw under each plastic cap.
Popped the two plastic covers (with the warning labels) off the hinges/closing mechanisms with thin flat head screwdriver.
Pulled dryer out from wall, unplugged the unit from the A/Power, and removed the phillips head screw on each side of the washer back.
Lifted off the washer top with the aid of assistant to hold close to the machine. Be careful with the cable that leads to the control panel.
On the underside of the top, I removed the two Phillips head screws holding the broken hinge and pushed it out from the top.
Replaced the hinge and re-inserted and tightened the two Phillips screws holding it in. Took the opportunity to thoroughly clean the top of the washer tub.
Re-installed the two back and two front screws that hold down the top and popped the two plastic covers on the top.
Moved the lid back into place and slid the slow closing latches back into place and reinstalled the 3 screws in each one. Note how the latch goes back into the hinge. Snapped the two covers back into place.
Plugged in the machine and pushed it back into place.
Lid soft closes perfectly now.

Turn water valves off , remove the hoses from washer,remove covering from hose housing, remove the claps from back off housing, remove screws from intake housing, remove iPod intake and install new housing and reverse the install

Tried to remove adjitator but it was stuck. Could not find any professional method of pulling it. There must be some type of puller,

Very simple repair after watching YouTube video on how to complete repair.