11022972103 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

leaned washer back on wall at or more than 45degree undid two screws off of motor. pulled old part off put new on reinstalled motor Done

I loosened two screws which held the knob panel in place. I undid the two clips holding the cabinet and removed it. The pump has two clips holding it on, I removed those and the pump came free. Taking advice from these forums, I did not remove the hoses attached. I disconnected the wiring harnesses from the motor. The motor has 2 clips also, these being held on with screws. I removed the screws and the clips. THE MOTOR IS HEAVY.
You will see the coupling on the "spindle" of the motor. In my case, both plastic pieces were cracked in 2 places. I removed the old coupling and cleaned the "spindles" and lightly regreased.
The replacement pieces I ordered were the "improved" ones with the metal insert. They were a tight fit on the motor but I used a socket and hammer. (lightly). Line up the coupling pieces, reattach clips, DONT FORGET THOSE SCREWS HOLDING THE MOTOR CLIPS. Pump goes on next, etc. MAKE SURE ALL WIRING IS RECONNECTED! Cabinet goes back on, large clips holding cabinet to rear of machine go back on. Knob console flipped down and reattached.
Plugged it in and I was good to go! This washer is almost ten years old and this is the second time I have been able to bring it back from the dead, the first time being the agitator "dogs" wearing out. THANKS PARTSELECT!

We unscrewed the two screws at the back of the control panel. Holding the control panel on both ends
we pulled it toward the front of the machine, slightly and gently lifting it at the same time, removing it from the metal surround. Holding the control panel up off of the surround we rocked the surround forward and lifted it off the washing machine frame.
We could see where the leak was coming from. We took the hose clamps from the two ports, then
using a pair of pliers pulled the two clips that are holding the pump onto the shaft protruding from the
electric motor. We matched up the part on the web sight. Ordered the part then when it came in we just reversed the order putting the machine back together. The hardest and most time consuming
thing about this repair was the clean up of the washing machine. (Dirt and soap residue does
build up on the inside of the wash tubs.)

Being female & never working on appliances, it was a challenge for me. I took the spinning unit apart: 1) Outer cap 2) Inner cap 3) Screw, nut & bolt popped out. Rusty & wouldn't lock into place anymore. Ordered nut & washer at about $10 + shipping. Total $17 from MayTag Rec'd right at 7 days via USPS. Used nutdriver/wrench to screw in new bolt w/washer. Wah la! That did it! Washer working great now! Now that I'm a "diy" handy person, I'm ready for my next challenge. Hopefully, none!

Started taking machine apart, would of been easier if I had looked at the online diagrams first, but dismantled enough to find a few broken parts, I could not tell the coupling was broke till I actually removed the water pump and motor. Total cost for 3 plastic parts was less than $25 including shipping. Received parts in 3 days on standard lowest cost shipping. Put machine back together, with just a few extra screws and wire clips, but machine works like new now. Much better than the cost of new or used washer.

removed water lines from back of washer. tilted washer to get access to the pump/ removed 2 hoses at pump and removed to snap clips attaching the pump. easiest repair i ever did. washer works fine now.

I had given up on repairing the machine and placed order for a $650 washer. After returning to home from this shoping, I wanted to know possible problems with the current machine and came across a story on your web site attached to the Coupling parts description. It described the repair details. Encouraged I placed order for this $15 parts and repaired in an hour, saved the replacement machine cost. Thanks a lot

Tipped the washer onto it's side, used pliers to loosen clamps on old hose. Removed outer drain hose from white plastic hose adapter on back of washer. Removed white hose adapter (snaps out of place) and old hose. Fed new hose through opening for white adapter, then snapped new adapter into place on back of machine. Put the new hose in place and replaced clamps. Sat washer back upright. No more leaking! It was easy and didn't take more than 15-20 minutes.

I am an old woman who is disabled and without any tools or knowledge, but sheer stubbornness and will power, I waited for my tools and other parts to come in, in the mean time I fixed my young neighbors whirlpool washer, well We took top off the nut I had already pre assembled her cam so set it in place of old one put bolt back in place and the top of agitator she says works perfectly now, my parts came in I had nothing to remove as my handicap daughter had already thrown away all the loose parts, I threw away old top agitator, assembled cam and put in place still did not feel tight enough so added seal from other nut!! it worked tight enough, put the inner part back in with new part and soap put the top back on and now works good as new, was disappointed could not put bottom agitator in place, just not strong enough lol well this was my story

slid the old seal off the lid and the new one popped on so easily
I do so many self- repairs at home now this was not even an issue.

I followed the instructions in the video on the part page (part #PS11741239), which was also conveniently linked in the item shipped email. The replacement of the part was very easy ... the hard part was balancing the washer again (kitchen floor seems to have sunk in the middle). Back to normal function without having to suffer a flood first. Thanks.

Thank you for asking me how it went. the washer would not spin or pump water out, so I put it on its side and saw that the coupling was bad.
so I found you on the internet, thankyou very much, and put a order in for the part. well waiting for the part, I took the old coupling out it was easy, there was two metal bands one on each side of the motor took them off two bolts holding a plate on, and had old coupling in hand. and it was easy to put back with the new coupling. I enjoyed working on it. Dennis

It took me awhile to figure out how to get the shell off the washer frame. (I didn't know about flipping it on its back). Once the moving parts were revealed, the water pump was staring at me with both ports. I turned the machine on and saw that the leak was coming from the pump.
1. Cut power
2. unclipped pump with pry with screwdriver
3. detatched both hoses - flood ensued
4. gently pulled pump off transmission
5. replaced pump

I reccommend doing this repair with empty tub.

It was a miracle. We were going to get rid of the washing machine because it made so much noise and rattled the whole house. It also 'walked' across the room with every load.
I simply replaced the wear pads (2 of them were already worn away), and now it is as quiet as when it was new. AMAZING!

Replacing the clutch was easy but unfortunately did not fix the washing machine. I couldn't get the agitator loose at first, but it came loose when I unbolted the motor and transmission assembly. After replacing the clutch and reassembling the motor, I tilted the washer back up and found that the basket in the center under the agitator was cracked all the way around and that was why it wasn't spinning. It was also why the clutch was burning--trying to spin a basket that wasn't centered in the drum anymore. This washer is over 25 years old, so I decided not to replace the basket, since a replacement is about $400. A good attempt at an inexpensive repair, but unsuccessful.