11074414210 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

>removed 2 screws connecting the vent filter to the top lid of the unit (just in front of removable filter).
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!

Take top of washing machine off. Turn spikets off and remove hot and cold inlet hoses. Remove one screw holding part in place. Reach from front and take valve out. Unplug wiring harnesses. Reinstall the same way I took it off.

As I tore my ACL, my wife actually did the actual repair while I talked her through it. The video on your website was such a great help. Our repair went exactly as depicted.

Loosing back cover to reach in and remove valve

I replaces the water inlet valve and now I have full pressure for the cold water to fill the tub.

I watched the video on changing the valve. Then ordered the part. The video showed exactly how to do the repair and it was so easy.

With the help of reading about other individuals and their problem, I was able to replace the water inlet valve in less than 30 minutes. Unscrewed two screws on top to reveal the flat springs. Popped the springs and released the back of the washer. Removed the old part and replaced with new. A lot easier than I thought.

I diagnosed by reversing the plugs on the hot/cold valves. I then removed the valve , cleaned it up and sprayed the electrical contacts with (Corrosion Block) and re-assembled. It still only had hot water. Ordered part, received part next day. When I went to install it I discovered that the (Corrosion Block) had penatrated and all was working! So now I have a spare valve.

Opened back panel and replaced valve - very easy

Our washer's cold water flow became very slow. We were living with just hot water washing for about a month. I had used PartSelect in past and have always been very satisfied with the outcome. So, I went on the site and within a couple of minutes of navigating, had the part (water inlet valve with mounting plate) on order.

I watched the repair video on the water valve ordering page. My installation went pretty much to this procedure, with one exception, I had to use the mounting plate, which I don't think was covered in the video. You have to read and follow the instruction sheet that comes with the part. Therefore, my installation instructions are to a) watch the video, b) get together all the recommended tools described in the video, c) be prepared to use the mounting plate (which uses the same 1/4 nutdriver the video says is needed).

I did the complete valve replacement and had the washer back in place in just at 30 minutes, the tight closet quarters added a bit to this time I'm sure. Working in a basement or open utility room would have been a little easier and quicker. My shortfall though is, I should have done the hose connection check (turning the supply valves back on) before making the move back into the washer space, as once I performed what I thought was my last step, turning on the supply valves, I heard a water leak. This was resolved with another 10 minutes worth of moving the washer back out, disconnecting the hose, removing the rust debris which apparently caused the leak, reconnecting the hose, and this time, checking for leaks BEFORE moving the appliance back into place. I think the time estimate of 30 minutes is good for individuals with moderate experience in appliance repair, and probably good for the novice in conjunction with the video.

Unplugged the washer and pulled out from wall as far as hoses would permit. Removed and drained both supply hoses. Removed drain hose and drained. Any water left in the tub will drain here so it's best to make sure it's drained prior to repair. Used pliers to hold the hose clamp and removed. Took screws out of drain hose interface plate and pulled out far enough to disconnect it from the internal hose.
Removed the two front screws of the control console. removed the two top hinge screws on the back. Removed four screws at the bottom of the rear access panel. Had to lift unclip several clamps holding the level hose in the control console and a cable connector. Unclipped various clips in the back panel to free it from wire bundle and such. Lifted the back panel up off of the clips located at the rear base of the control panel.

Removed two screws to free the solenoid assembly from the back panel. Unplugged the connectors to the original solenoid assembly. Disconnected the internal hose from it. Installed screw and plate supplied with the replacement solenoid to configure it with the same orientation as the original. Connected the internal hose and electrical connectors. Reassembled the back in reverse order as diassembled.

removed the two screw that hold the inlet valve take hose of .the first was takeing the back of than the hoses from back hose on bottom of machine.

I replaced the water inlet valve. First I watched a YouTube video on the repair; surprised to learn that you take the machine apart from the front, not the back.A few tips; pull the washer all the way out first; have extra tools in case you have the same problem as I did that the flathead screws holding the old valve on the back were too tight and had a shallow slot; it took several wrenches and pliers to get them turning. Do NOT forget to hook the internal hose back to the valve before reassembling the machine;and pay close attention to how the housing of the washer fits onto the frame, so that you can more easily put it back together. It would be helpful to have a second person for that step. All said, it was pretty easy to replace the part and I probably saved $200 and didn't have to sit around for a repairman.

I wish I could be more specific, but I had a bit of trouble getting the back off the washer. I removed the control panel on the top of the machine and that allowed me to get to the two clips that secured the back onto the unit. The I removed additional screws on the back until I was able to pull the back away from the frame on the side where the valve was installed. after loosening the screws that held the valve to the back panel I was able to reach in and pull it out of the side. Once that was done, the rest was a breeze. I clipped the hose on the original valve and re-attached it to the new part. Then it was just a matter of reassembling and that went much, much faster than the disassembling. I reattached the water lines, plugged in the washer and it worked like a charm. I was very pleased with the whole thing. Also, I paid for standard freight, but received the part the following day after placing the order. Sweet.

removed top panel and back panel
and then disconect the two wire fromm water inlet
fallow by removing screws.disconect water hose
then put back new part make sure i have all same conected as original put back panel top and back
conected hose for water back and electric .
then i turned 0n cold water perfect work hot water perfect warm perfect. problem fixed.
thanks. pedro