79629872700 Kenmore Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Robert from Saugus, MA
- Parts Used:
- EBF49827801
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Lock assembly displaying DE code
Unplug washer!!! 1. Remove retaining ring around rubber gasket with flat head screwdriver. Just slightly pry off and it will easily come off. 2. Just peel back rubber gasket on the side that the lock is on. 3. remove 2 screws from the front off the lock assembly. 4. gently reach in and lift the little plastic clip holding the wiring harness and lift straight off. If the clip is lifted it might be a little tight just use even steady pressure to pull off. 5. Reverse these instructions to replace. Note: replacing the retaining ring on the rubber is a pain. The spring has to be in the bottom. Using a couple of flathead screwdrivers you can wrangle it back in place after awhile. There is a tool that looks like a large reverse pliers that may make it easier. Anyway thats it, pretty easy. There is a youtube video that shows all of this.
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- Customer:
- Nate-Talisha from Miramar, FL
- Parts Used:
- 4681EA2001T
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Water will not Drain
took out the drain pump and replace with a new one
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- Customer:
- Timothy from Williamsport, PA
- Parts Used:
- 4681EA2001T
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
would not drain
During my troubleshooting, I removed the bottom to access the drain pump. I had to cut some wire ties so that I could make removing the wires easier. After checking the pump and putting everything back together, I determined that the pump itself was bad. Pump impeller should not rotate freely! After receiving new part, I installed it relatively easy. I didn't have to remove the bottom since there was enough room through the access hole. Just make sure to make where wires go before removing old part.
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- Customer:
- Daraius from AUSTIN, TX
- Parts Used:
- 4738ER1002A
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Pool of water under washer after a run
Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.
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- Customer:
- Antonie from Orlando, FL
- Parts Used:
- 5220FR2008F, 5220FR2006H
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Kept getting suck on rinse cycle, filing machine with water, valve was sticking in the open position.
Replaced the 4 valave unit and single hot water valve at same time. Unplug unit, remove two plastic tabs on back of washer, push on top from front to losen. tur off both water valves, remove two screws holding valves in place, mark with tape which hose goes to which vavle, < back left, back righ, front left, front right, and write in electrical plugs the same. Hot water vavle is by itself, mark it anyway>. install new vavles, replace hoses, and eletrical plugs on top. Make sure clamps are all the way forward and tight! > leave top off. turn on water and electrical, run one short cycle to check for operation and leaks, if ok, replace top and back screws. Simple job, saved me $375.00 doing it myself.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Indianola, WA
- Parts Used:
- 5220FR2008F, 5220FR2006H
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Tub filling with water when washer off.
1) Shut off water supplies 2) Unplug 3) Disconnect water supplies from back of washer -some water will dribble out 4) Unscrew 2 screws at back of washer top plate (the lower of the two screws on each of the plastic bumpers) 5) slide top plate back a couple inches, then lift off. 6) Carefully stuff a towel underneath the distribution hoses and valves to catch any water that escapes during replacement. 7) Snap a photo of the entire area to help identify where the hoses and electrical connections are located to aid in re-connection (or label with tape). Be sure to note the color coding on the wires in relation to how they connect to the valves. 8) Pull the electrical connector(s) off the valve assembly 9) Use pliers to loosen and slide the hose clamps off as many of the hoses as possible and pull the hoses off the valve assembly. Some hoses are hard to reach, and can be removed after the valve is detached from the washer housing. 10) Unscrew the two screws from the back of the washer body holding the valve in place. 11) Remove the valve (and any remaining hoses). 12) Attach distribution hoses to new valve 13) Place new valve into washer body and screw into place. 14) Reattach electrical connection(s). 15) Remove towel and check for any stray water 16) Place top cover on washer and slide forward to lock in place. 17) Replace screws in top cover at rear of washer (unless you plan on checking for leaks after testing) 18) Reattach water supply hoses 19) Turn on water supplies 20) Plug washer in 21) Run washer self-test to check that all water inlets operate -see note at end 22) Check for leaks at water inlet hose connections and underneath washer OPTIONAL but ADVISABLE: check for internal leaks - 23) Unplug washer 24) Remove top cover 25) check for leaks at distribution hose connections 24) Replace top cover 25) Secure screws in top cover 26) Plug in washer NOTE: Washer self-test instructions: Turn washer off. Press and hold the SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons simultaneously, then press POWER button. Keep holding SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons until buzzer sounds twice. Release buttons. Press START/PAUSE button 4 times to test prewash inlet and listen for sound of water entering the washer. Press START/PAUSE button again for main wash inlet, press again for hot inlet, press again for steam inlet, press again for bleach inlet. Press 4 more times to get to drain cycle and watch for water to drain from tub (if any visible). Press 3 more times to turn test off. Power off washer to reset.
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- Customer:
- Denise from Show Low, AZ
- Parts Used:
- 4738ER1002A
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
It was torn and leaking.
Took off the old one and put the other one on. The only difficulty was that my husband has big hands and had a hard time getting to one end.
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- Customer:
- Brian from Camden, MO
- Parts Used:
- 6501KW2002B
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Humming, no error code, not spinning
The problem ended up being the pump motor which discharges water from the washer. I figured out this was the problem after trying several things. I determined the motor was fine when it was empty. With the unit turned off, if you can rotate the tube with a quick spin and it lights up, probably this is OK. Then I tried to run it again and it went about 1/2 way through the cycle and stopped and started humming again. So I started emptying out the water, which I noticed was about 5 gallons which is way too much. so once empty, I took the pump off by turning unit on side. There are two hoses with hose clamps, and a few screws. Be careful to mark which wire plugs onto which side of the pump. One is brown and one is black. If you take the pump housing off, with the 3 screws, you should be able to pull the motor apart. Mine had water and scum from the wash in it, which was a dead give away that it was the problem.
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- Customer:
- Juan from Anaheim, CA
- Parts Used:
- EBF49827801
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Will not start after dorr is closed. Shows Code dE. Door locks properly, two clicking is heard before code shows up.
1. Remove spring-loaded clamp assembly. 2. Partially pull out the large rubber gasket near the lock switch assembly to gain access to the lock switch assembly. 3. Unscrew two screws holding the lock switch assembly. Carefully separate the connector from the lock screw assembly and replace it with the new part. Reinstall in reverse sequence. Ensure that the electrical connector is fully seated unto the lock switch assembly and the connector latch is fully set against the lock switch body. Also make sure that the large rubber seal is fully seated around the door opening to prevent water leak. Restarted the washer and everything worked as before.
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- Customer:
- matt from Fuquay Varina, NC
- Parts Used:
- 4681EA2001T
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
My Washing Machine was not draining properly
The machine was making a grinding noise instead of draining. I spoke with the LG rep on the 800 line and was told to call a repair man. The Parts select diagram helped me to identify the part I needed. It was clear enough that I was confident it was the right one. Three days and six screws later the machine was working fine.
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- Customer:
- Bruce from West Hills, CA
- Parts Used:
- 4738ER1002A
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
My Washer was leaking
The repair went well and your parts are easy to find. This is the second time I have used your services and both times have been great. Your parts are at great prices and your delivery is a lot faster that one would think.
Thank you
Thank you
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- Customer:
- Tresa from McHenry, IL
- Parts Used:
- 5214FR4006G
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Very visible tear in hose. It was 1 1/2" long
Simply took hose off from inside machine and replaced it with new one. The tore one had a stopper on one end that wrapped to front machine; inside filter compartment. So I put stopper on the other end of new hose and wrapped it to it's holding spot in filter compartment.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Granite Bay, CA
- Parts Used:
- 5220FR2006H, 4861FR3068A
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
leaky inlet valve
found the leak, went to the website, called customer service, ordered the part... $24 later, problem solved. Great customer service and on-line support
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- Customer:
- Craig from Sheridan, AR
- Parts Used:
- 5220FR2008F
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Cold water valve stuck on
I watched a YouTube video on the repair and I was fully prepared.the repair went easy
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- Customer:
- MARVIN from MARYVILLE, TN
- Parts Used:
- 5220FR2006H
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Hot Water Inlet valve (solinoid valve leaking)
Removed lid (top of washer), then ran a cycle in normal to identify the failed component, then noticed the water inlet valve assembly for the hot water was leaking, used my pc and went to website Part Select and found to failed part on the parts break down item, then ordered the part, the part "Valve Assembly Inlet" for the hot water arrived 2-days later, replaced valve in less than 5-minutes, disconnected push on electrical connector, unscrewed the valve assembly inlet and installed the new valve assembly inlet, very easy
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