11084416610 Kenmore Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Marc from Whittier, CA
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Washer would not fill hot water
This was a thirty year old Kenmore washer. I removed the control frame, and then removed the two nuts holding the water inlet valve. The valve itself was easy, two water lines and one fill line. Reassembly was problematic as this valve was not exactly the same, I just tied off the valve to the water lines so it would not move.
Of course what took the most time was a run to Home Depot as the hot and cold water hoses were old and I replaced them with new.
Of course what took the most time was a run to Home Depot as the hot and cold water hoses were old and I replaced them with new.
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- Customer:
- Steve from Manhattan, KS
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Getting only a trickle of hot water and a drip from the cold after cycle is done
I watched the video provided and followed the same steps in taking the washer cabinet off. The valve was very easy to replace and I took the opportunity to really clean and inspect everything. A little tricky to get back together but not bad. My 25 year old kenmore is working like a charm.
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- Customer:
- katherine from baton rogue, LA
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
cold water only dribbled into tub
followed the video i found on Parts Select. Most difficult part was getting the frame back on correctly. Everything else was a breeze. Works great now.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Palm City, FL
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Water leakig into the tub after the cycle finished
First I unplugged the washing machine and turned off the inlet water faucets. I prepared my tools, spead a drop cloth, and had ready a towel and small bucket to catch water from the hoses.
I pulled the washer away from the wall and removed the screw holding the ground wire. I disconnected the inlet hoses and the drain hose from the wall and put the loose ends in the washer tub. Then I completly turned the washer around for easy access. I removed the inlet hoses and the drain hose using the bucket to catch the little water that was still in the hoses. I removed 2 screws holding the top control panel to the back place and removed the 3 screws at the bottom of the back plate. I also removed the two screws holding the control panel to the top of the washer. The water inlet valve is located on the left side looking at the rear about half way up. I was able to move the left panel of the washer out of the way an inch or so, and pull the left side of the rear panel away a few inches so I could stick my hand in and unhook the cold and hot wire cables. I memorized which went into which slot. Then I unscrewed the water inlet valve and pulled it out the opening to the back and using a pair of pliers I loosed the water clamp and removed the rubber inlet hose. A small amount of water came out which I was able to catch in my small pail.
The water inlet valve comes with a separate mounting plate. I attached the mounting plate with one of the screws provided. The screws are identical except one has a flat slot and the other has a special star slot.
I reattached the rubber inlet hose using the pliers to hold the clamp then positioned the water inlet valve back in place on the back panel. I put a screw in to hold it and reattached the wires for the hot and cold control. Then I tightened the screws.
I repositioned the panels and put the lower screws holding the back panel to the washer back in loosely. I positioned the control panel back on the top of the washer and reattached the two screws on the back and then the two screws holding the front of the control panel to the top of the washer. Then I reattached the inlet hoses and draine hose.
I used this opportunity with the washer away from the wall to clean the floor and wall behind it. After cleaning under the washer, I moved the dryer over and cleaned under the dryer and made sure the dryer hose was still connected.
I put the dryer back, and repositioined the washer half way back into the opening. The I reattached the ground wire to the back of the dryer and attached the hoses to the wall. Then I pushed the washer back into place. Using a level I rechecked the level of the washer. I turned the water back on and ran a small load of wash to test. It worked fine.
I pulled the washer away from the wall and removed the screw holding the ground wire. I disconnected the inlet hoses and the drain hose from the wall and put the loose ends in the washer tub. Then I completly turned the washer around for easy access. I removed the inlet hoses and the drain hose using the bucket to catch the little water that was still in the hoses. I removed 2 screws holding the top control panel to the back place and removed the 3 screws at the bottom of the back plate. I also removed the two screws holding the control panel to the top of the washer. The water inlet valve is located on the left side looking at the rear about half way up. I was able to move the left panel of the washer out of the way an inch or so, and pull the left side of the rear panel away a few inches so I could stick my hand in and unhook the cold and hot wire cables. I memorized which went into which slot. Then I unscrewed the water inlet valve and pulled it out the opening to the back and using a pair of pliers I loosed the water clamp and removed the rubber inlet hose. A small amount of water came out which I was able to catch in my small pail.
The water inlet valve comes with a separate mounting plate. I attached the mounting plate with one of the screws provided. The screws are identical except one has a flat slot and the other has a special star slot.
I reattached the rubber inlet hose using the pliers to hold the clamp then positioned the water inlet valve back in place on the back panel. I put a screw in to hold it and reattached the wires for the hot and cold control. Then I tightened the screws.
I repositioned the panels and put the lower screws holding the back panel to the washer back in loosely. I positioned the control panel back on the top of the washer and reattached the two screws on the back and then the two screws holding the front of the control panel to the top of the washer. Then I reattached the inlet hoses and draine hose.
I used this opportunity with the washer away from the wall to clean the floor and wall behind it. After cleaning under the washer, I moved the dryer over and cleaned under the dryer and made sure the dryer hose was still connected.
I put the dryer back, and repositioined the washer half way back into the opening. The I reattached the ground wire to the back of the dryer and attached the hoses to the wall. Then I pushed the washer back into place. Using a level I rechecked the level of the washer. I turned the water back on and ran a small load of wash to test. It worked fine.
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- Customer:
- Jason from Sterling, VA
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Wasn't flowing cold water effectively
To Whom It May Concern:
I had issues with my washer not flowing cold water very efficiently.
I was convinced I was going to have to spend at least $200 to get
someone to fix it or buy a new unit. My friend showed me your site
and videos. I quickly found the part I needed, had full confidence
that my problem would be solved with that part and that I'd be able to
do it myself. I ordered the part yesterday, got it today, and
installed it in under 15 minutes (thanks to the excellent video).
What an amazing customer experience!!
This is the greatest buying process I've every had with an Internet
purchase....hands down!! You saved me a couple hundred bucks and made
it fun and easy for me to fix myself. You guys are the best. No
doubt about it.
Thank you so much, Jason
I had issues with my washer not flowing cold water very efficiently.
I was convinced I was going to have to spend at least $200 to get
someone to fix it or buy a new unit. My friend showed me your site
and videos. I quickly found the part I needed, had full confidence
that my problem would be solved with that part and that I'd be able to
do it myself. I ordered the part yesterday, got it today, and
installed it in under 15 minutes (thanks to the excellent video).
What an amazing customer experience!!
This is the greatest buying process I've every had with an Internet
purchase....hands down!! You saved me a couple hundred bucks and made
it fun and easy for me to fix myself. You guys are the best. No
doubt about it.
Thank you so much, Jason
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- Customer:
- Michael from Shipshewana, IN
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Water would not shut off after filling for cycles
I found the helpful video, after a bit of a struggle removing rear panel from machine!! I determined the problem of being the water inlet valve from prior troubles on a machine.
I removed the screws from bottom of rear panel,then the Phillips screws from the back of control panel. bumping the control panel towards the front of the machine dislodges it from it's slots. the control then tilts back on plastic hinges, exposing the clips that hold on the rear panel.Those clips are pried up and removed. dis connect the wire harness to control panel. A similar screw as the first removed at bottom hold the inlet valve on the panel.. two simple wire terminals are pulled off as well as a small water line. I did not remove the entire cabinet front as shown in the video as space did not permit it. Still easily reached. the reverse was done to install. The machines are heavy, do get help there.
I did not have it. Be certain to shut off water supply before beginning. Also, I forgot to reconnect the wire harness to control panel. you wont,RIGHT.
I removed the screws from bottom of rear panel,then the Phillips screws from the back of control panel. bumping the control panel towards the front of the machine dislodges it from it's slots. the control then tilts back on plastic hinges, exposing the clips that hold on the rear panel.Those clips are pried up and removed. dis connect the wire harness to control panel. A similar screw as the first removed at bottom hold the inlet valve on the panel.. two simple wire terminals are pulled off as well as a small water line. I did not remove the entire cabinet front as shown in the video as space did not permit it. Still easily reached. the reverse was done to install. The machines are heavy, do get help there.
I did not have it. Be certain to shut off water supply before beginning. Also, I forgot to reconnect the wire harness to control panel. you wont,RIGHT.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Roswell, NM
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Cracked / leaking water valve
Rmoved top, removed back, replaced valve.
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- Customer:
- George from Edgerton, WI
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Water inlet valve would not shut off on cold side.
I removed the faulty valve after unplugging the AC cord. Two screws, the two water hoses were removed, and the electrical connections were unplugged. The old valve could then be rotated so that the clamp on the fill tube could be loosened and the tube pulled off the valve.
The new valve body seemed to be an exact replacement, but the mounting bracked was slightly different and required drilling two new screw-mounting holes; an easy job.
Before securing the mounting plate to the machine, the fill tube and clamp were reattached, and the electrical connectors plugged in. After connecting the supply hoses and plugging in the AC cord, the machine filled with water properly and everything seemed to be back to normal.
I might have been able to use the original mounting plate, but it had been taken to a different location which was too far away to easily retrieve.
The new valve body seemed to be an exact replacement, but the mounting bracked was slightly different and required drilling two new screw-mounting holes; an easy job.
Before securing the mounting plate to the machine, the fill tube and clamp were reattached, and the electrical connectors plugged in. After connecting the supply hoses and plugging in the AC cord, the machine filled with water properly and everything seemed to be back to normal.
I might have been able to use the original mounting plate, but it had been taken to a different location which was too far away to easily retrieve.
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- Customer:
- John from Royse City, TX
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
No hot water & very little cold water
As I tore my ACL, my wife actually did the actual repair while I talked her through it. The video on your website was such a great help. Our repair went exactly as depicted.
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- Customer:
- Andris from Sands Point, NY
- Parts Used:
- W10820036
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer would not activate
>removed 2 screws connecting the vent filter to the top lid of the unit (just in front of removable filter).
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!
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- Customer:
- Walter from Palmerton, PA
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Won't stop filling with water
Loosing back cover to reach in and remove valve
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Brockton, MA
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Water would not shut off plus long time filling
I simply watched the video that PartSelect has online and it was a big help although my washer was a little different it still gave me the general idea on how to remove the casing. Great website! Thanks PartSelect!
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- Customer:
- JAVIER from LOS ANGELES, CA
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
screeching sound along with small amount of water coming out to fill machine
I notice a screetching sound started and as time went on the water that flowed out to fill water drum was not working properly, unplugged washing machine electrical cord from outlet. disconnected water hoses, removed screws from control panel, pulled out front cover off wachine machine to access water valve, removed by unscrewing 2 screws, placed bracket on new part(placed over valve and pushed bracket up to slide and align srew to tightenbracket), put everything back in reverse order, helpfull video on video web site for visual
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- Customer:
- Dan from Burbank, CA
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Cold water barely filled the tub.
I replaces the water inlet valve and now I have full pressure for the cold water to fill the tub.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Oakland, CA
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Leaky Inlet Valve
This is a very easy repair. After shutting off the water, removing the feed lines, and of course unplugging the electricity, all I had to do was: 1. remove two screws 2. flip the control panel up 3.unplug a wiring connection 4. pop two clips that hold the housing to the back 5. lean housing forward 6.unplug wiring at valve 7. remove fill hose 8. remove two screws. 9. toss old valve in the recycling bin (or trash depending on your area) 10. Reverse procedure using new valve. 11. wash clothes.
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