11084416610 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

First, I unplugged it and disconnected the water hoses (the water has been off to it for days). Then, I tried taking off the back of the washing machine. This didn't work, and I actually ended up googling instructions and found pretty detailed, illustrated instructions at Popular Mechanics.
You need to unscrew the front panel that contains all of the controls first, flip it up, and unhook it from the back of the washer (via an electronics clip and 2 metal clips). The outer cover can then be taken off. I recommend undoing the internal hose next -- I used adjustable pliers to squeeze the connecter and loosen the hose. Then, unscrew the water inlet valve and take it off.

Putting everything back together literally just means reversing the instructions.

My washing machine is on a raise service, and I still haven't gotten the outer frame completely back in place correctly, but it's not touching anything or creating any problems. It's really only to safeguard parts anyways, so no worries if it's not perfect -- at least it works now!

Removed the hoses from the inlet valve. Removed screws that hold control panel in place . Removed control panel which exposed two clips that hold the top of the back panel. Removed the ground screw freeing the ground wire, removed the plastic loom which holds a bundle of wires. I next removed the plastic plate that protects the fill valve from splashed water. Removed the screw that holds the valve in place, then removed the wires and the fill hose. Reversed steps to put back together.

took off the rear panel and removed the existing inlet valve and installed the new one. Replaced the rear panel and the machine work better than ever.

The repair was simple as you can imagine. Thought I could buy these legs at any big box store or at least at the local hardware store. No such luck. Partselect had the right product---easy to order and easy to install. Things around here are great.

turn off hot and cold water faucets,unplug the power,pull washer out to gain access to rear cover, remove the top control panel screws,push back and lift off, disconnect hot and cold water hoses from inlet valve and remove enough screws from the back panel to remove the valve, disconnect the valve from the tub fill hose (mine had a spring type hose clamp) note the orientataion of the hot and cold hoses and the solenoid connectors for the hot and cold sides,(mine is stamped in the rear cover)reconnect and reassemble in reverse order and check for proper operation.

First I turned off the water to the washer and then removed the hot/cold water hoses going to the washer, unscrewed the water hoses from the washer, and cleaned the wire screens located immediately inside the inlet water valve. This did not solve the problem. Second, I loosened the hex head screws on the back panel of the washer. This allowed me access to the valve. I tested the valve solenoids with my ohm/volt meter and all checked out OK (but this did not make sense). Third, I surfed the web to find out if the symtoms of the washer's problem were the same as experienced by other people. I found several reports of the same symptoms, all which were solved by replacing the water inlet valve. This conformed my original diagnosis although the valve tested as OK. Fourth, I ordered the part from PartSelect, and removed the hose clamp and two mounting screws holding the old valve to the back panel of the washer and removed the old valves. Last, when the new valve arrived, I assembled the new backing plate to the new valve, attached it to the washer's back panel, attached the water hoses to the valve after fitting new rubber seals to the inside of the hoses, and reattached the washer back panel. The washer is working perfectly again.

removed the two screw that hold the inlet valve take hose of .the first was takeing the back of than the hoses from back hose on bottom of machine.

pulled leads off old wigwag solenoid, removed set screw and sprayed shaft w/wd40 then tapped it off shaft w/small hammer and large screwdriver. put new wigwag solenoid onto shaft then tapped it down into place and tapped it to rotate to expose set screw hole. reattached set screw, reattached leads to solenoid, checked looseness/freeness of cam arms and it worked

Opening the washing machine, and removal and replacement of the water inlet valve were both trivially easy. However, getting the cabinet back into place was a bit tricky, only because I did it by myself. It was surprising how flexible and flippy-floppy the cabinet became when free of the structure of the machine. It would have been a huge help to have had a buddy over to just help place the back corners of the cabinet into place. That would have made the whole job totally easy.

I wish I could be more specific, but I had a bit of trouble getting the back off the washer. I removed the control panel on the top of the machine and that allowed me to get to the two clips that secured the back onto the unit. The I removed additional screws on the back until I was able to pull the back away from the frame on the side where the valve was installed. after loosening the screws that held the valve to the back panel I was able to reach in and pull it out of the side. Once that was done, the rest was a breeze. I clipped the hose on the original valve and re-attached it to the new part. Then it was just a matter of reassembling and that went much, much faster than the disassembling. I reattached the water lines, plugged in the washer and it worked like a charm. I was very pleased with the whole thing. Also, I paid for standard freight, but received the part the following day after placing the order. Sweet.

Had no problem in disassembling the unit to get to the water inlet valve area. Very little problem installling the inlet valve but had somewhat of a difficult time getting the housing reassembled. There is a good flow of both hot and cold water which has cut down on the fill up time and washing time. Glad it is still working after 15 years. Instructions on the internet were extremely helpful. The delivery time of part was amazingly fast.

Unplugged the washer and pulled out from wall as far as hoses would permit. Removed and drained both supply hoses. Removed drain hose and drained. Any water left in the tub will drain here so it's best to make sure it's drained prior to repair. Used pliers to hold the hose clamp and removed. Took screws out of drain hose interface plate and pulled out far enough to disconnect it from the internal hose.
Removed the two front screws of the control console. removed the two top hinge screws on the back. Removed four screws at the bottom of the rear access panel. Had to lift unclip several clamps holding the level hose in the control console and a cable connector. Unclipped various clips in the back panel to free it from wire bundle and such. Lifted the back panel up off of the clips located at the rear base of the control panel.

Removed two screws to free the solenoid assembly from the back panel. Unplugged the connectors to the original solenoid assembly. Disconnected the internal hose from it. Installed screw and plate supplied with the replacement solenoid to configure it with the same orientation as the original. Connected the internal hose and electrical connectors. Reassembled the back in reverse order as diassembled.

replaced valve. Everything now working. Ordering the part was simple and I found a how to video on line that was great The whole replacement of the defective part was easy and the machine was back on line in 30 minutes.

Removed backing and hoses and replaced the water inlet valve.

I own a small, local handyman service as a Father/Son team. This repair is PERFECT for an apprentice to do as a confidence biulder. He learned the safe way to service a machine with garanteed success. This is a job anyone with basic knowledge can easily do with a little on-line homework on their machine. -Jim & Tom W.-