11074414840 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I wish I could be more specific, but I had a bit of trouble getting the back off the washer. I removed the control panel on the top of the machine and that allowed me to get to the two clips that secured the back onto the unit. The I removed additional screws on the back until I was able to pull the back away from the frame on the side where the valve was installed. after loosening the screws that held the valve to the back panel I was able to reach in and pull it out of the side. Once that was done, the rest was a breeze. I clipped the hose on the original valve and re-attached it to the new part. Then it was just a matter of reassembling and that went much, much faster than the disassembling. I reattached the water lines, plugged in the washer and it worked like a charm. I was very pleased with the whole thing. Also, I paid for standard freight, but received the part the following day after placing the order. Sweet.

pulled leads off old wigwag solenoid, removed set screw and sprayed shaft w/wd40 then tapped it off shaft w/small hammer and large screwdriver. put new wigwag solenoid onto shaft then tapped it down into place and tapped it to rotate to expose set screw hole. reattached set screw, reattached leads to solenoid, checked looseness/freeness of cam arms and it worked

Unplugged the washer and pulled out from wall as far as hoses would permit. Removed and drained both supply hoses. Removed drain hose and drained. Any water left in the tub will drain here so it's best to make sure it's drained prior to repair. Used pliers to hold the hose clamp and removed. Took screws out of drain hose interface plate and pulled out far enough to disconnect it from the internal hose.
Removed the two front screws of the control console. removed the two top hinge screws on the back. Removed four screws at the bottom of the rear access panel. Had to lift unclip several clamps holding the level hose in the control console and a cable connector. Unclipped various clips in the back panel to free it from wire bundle and such. Lifted the back panel up off of the clips located at the rear base of the control panel.

Removed two screws to free the solenoid assembly from the back panel. Unplugged the connectors to the original solenoid assembly. Disconnected the internal hose from it. Installed screw and plate supplied with the replacement solenoid to configure it with the same orientation as the original. Connected the internal hose and electrical connectors. Reassembled the back in reverse order as diassembled.

I'm a 61 year old single woman, rather handy around the house. I followed the video which was very helpful and everything went together fine until it came to putting the body of the machine back on. I did the repairs all myself which took about an hour but when it came to the machine body I couldn't get it back on there after numerous tries. I had to call my brother and it took him just one try but then he is 6'2" and could look down the little hole to see where the tab was to put it on and hold the body at the same time. BTW - he did inspect my work before finishing the job and said I "did good!" Thanks for the video but could have used some hints as to how to put the body on with some close ups as to what he was doing with his hands when he did it.

Opening the washing machine, and removal and replacement of the water inlet valve were both trivially easy. However, getting the cabinet back into place was a bit tricky, only because I did it by myself. It was surprising how flexible and flippy-floppy the cabinet became when free of the structure of the machine. It would have been a huge help to have had a buddy over to just help place the back corners of the cabinet into place. That would have made the whole job totally easy.

This is a very easy repair. After shutting off the water, removing the feed lines, and of course unplugging the electricity, all I had to do was: 1. remove two screws 2. flip the control panel up 3.unplug a wiring connection 4. pop two clips that hold the housing to the back 5. lean housing forward 6.unplug wiring at valve 7. remove fill hose 8. remove two screws. 9. toss old valve in the recycling bin (or trash depending on your area) 10. Reverse procedure using new valve. 11. wash clothes.

To Whom It May Concern:

I had issues with my washer not flowing cold water very efficiently.
I was convinced I was going to have to spend at least $200 to get
someone to fix it or buy a new unit. My friend showed me your site
and videos. I quickly found the part I needed, had full confidence
that my problem would be solved with that part and that I'd be able to
do it myself. I ordered the part yesterday, got it today, and
installed it in under 15 minutes (thanks to the excellent video).
What an amazing customer experience!!

This is the greatest buying process I've every had with an Internet
purchase....hands down!! You saved me a couple hundred bucks and made
it fun and easy for me to fix myself. You guys are the best. No
doubt about it.

Thank you so much, Jason

I found the helpful video, after a bit of a struggle removing rear panel from machine!! I determined the problem of being the water inlet valve from prior troubles on a machine.
I removed the screws from bottom of rear panel,then the Phillips screws from the back of control panel. bumping the control panel towards the front of the machine dislodges it from it's slots. the control then tilts back on plastic hinges, exposing the clips that hold on the rear panel.Those clips are pried up and removed. dis connect the wire harness to control panel. A similar screw as the first removed at bottom hold the inlet valve on the panel.. two simple wire terminals are pulled off as well as a small water line. I did not remove the entire cabinet front as shown in the video as space did not permit it. Still easily reached. the reverse was done to install. The machines are heavy, do get help there.
I did not have it. Be certain to shut off water supply before beginning. Also, I forgot to reconnect the wire harness to control panel. you wont,RIGHT.

Rmoved top, removed back, replaced valve.

With the help of reading about other individuals and their problem, I was able to replace the water inlet valve in less than 30 minutes. Unscrewed two screws on top to reveal the flat springs. Popped the springs and released the back of the washer. Removed the old part and replaced with new. A lot easier than I thought.

As I tore my ACL, my wife actually did the actual repair while I talked her through it. The video on your website was such a great help. Our repair went exactly as depicted.

I simply watched the video that PartSelect has online and it was a big help although my washer was a little different it still gave me the general idea on how to remove the casing. Great website! Thanks PartSelect!

I notice a screetching sound started and as time went on the water that flowed out to fill water drum was not working properly, unplugged washing machine electrical cord from outlet. disconnected water hoses, removed screws from control panel, pulled out front cover off wachine machine to access water valve, removed by unscrewing 2 screws, placed bracket on new part(placed over valve and pushed bracket up to slide and align srew to tightenbracket), put everything back in reverse order, helpfull video on video web site for visual

I replaces the water inlet valve and now I have full pressure for the cold water to fill the tub.

looked on the find a part by s symptom. found the part,moved the washer took off the back.took 2 screws off of the top of the machine/controls.lifted the top.replace the water inlet valve.put it back together.easy repair.