1102087299 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

The instructional video that was attached with the part I purchased was spot on with very simple instructions. The inlet valve came with a metal bracket that was not needed for my model, so just tossed it. Was completed with replacement in about 30 minutes with help from my aspiring handywoman wife (would have taken 15 minutes without her)

Replaced the springs after watching the video's from this site and problem has been solved.

EXACTLY as your video demonstrated.

Took off water softener from top of agitator. Pulled up and removed cap with O-ring that covered bolt that held agitator in place.then pulled briskly up on entire agitator from the bottom to remove agitator from machine.After that I put my feet on bottom of agitator and then pulled up on top part to separate the two pieces. After that just follow instruction sheets for parts replacement and then reverse steps to reassemble.

Watched the video on the website... and did what it said to do. It was VERY helpful... It did not fix the problem... so now I'm on to the next possible solution. Also, provided by the website. The valve was the problem 85% of the time. The water level switch is the problem 10% of the time. The water level switch is what I ordered next.
Ordering is EASY and delivery is fast with available tracking of the shipment. Very nice...! -Eddie Campbell

Removed old tube and replaced with new version. Replacement slightly different than original since the new part included a feature that appears to prevent the problem. New part still fit and is operating well so far.

Unplugged washer. Pulled the washer away from the wall & leaned it back against the wall to access the underneath side of the washer. Disconnected water hoses to the pump with water pump pliers. Have drain pan handy to catch the water, approximately 1 qt. Remember which hose goes to the proper place. Removed two retaining screws/straps allowing the motor to be seperated from the transmission. There is enough slack in the wiring to allow you to drop the motor without disconnecting. You do not need to remove the water pump. Removed old coupling & replaced with the new one. Make sure you use the "new style" replacement coupler or you will be doing this repair again very soon! Schematics are available online.

Unplugged the AC cord and turned off the two water lines. Removed the control panel on top of the machine by removing four screws. Removed two clips that fastened the top of the machine to the rear panel. Tilted the cabinet forward a little bit and unplugged the switch. Removed the switch with the two philips screws and installed the new switch and plugged in the plug on the end of the wiring harness. Then reassembled everything. Cleaned the mess and plugged in the AC cord. turned the water on and everything worked perfect.

Siphon break kit keeps washing machine from continuing to siphon after rinse/cycle -- like emptying a pool with a hose. Fixed the problem of the tub never filling due to siphon draining out water as it's being put in.

Pretty much like shown in the video tutorial however I didn't disconnect the water hoses. I unplugged the machine and pulled it forward 6 inches. Took it apart like in the video but because of space restrictions I took the cabinet into another room to replace the switch and then re-assembled. The hardest part was getting the cabinet to re-seat as before. It took several attempts but it's all done and the machine is working like a champ. I listed a magnet because I use them to keep the nuts and screws from getting lost

On this model, no need to tip washer on back. Tilt console back and disconnect lid switch. Remove two clips holding back to top of washer (under console). Then remove top and front as directed in the video. The pump is accessible from the front of the unit, just below the tub. Hose clamps are easy to remove/replace. Took more time to wipe inside of washer clean than to remove/replace the water pump. Total time was just over 30 minutes.

popped off softener cap, easy. Pulled out clear plastic sealer, removed nut holding agitator in, pulled out agitator. Removed cam holder, new cam bearing etc in, reverse removal done, piece of cake.

First read up on what others did and tried to find free repair manual with little luck. Called repairman, they thought whole transmission was shot- would have been $70 just to have them look- forget it. Getting it apart: popped off the two console cosmetic panels to get to a screw on each side from the top. Lifted off console, levered and squeezed retaining clips. Unhooked two connectors and overflow tubing? Shell pulled off easily, getting back on after I was all done made me wonder if it was a good choice. In the end yes- allowed me to clean inside surfaces of both tubs to remove grime and rust. There are many stories on the actual clutch replacement, so won't go into too much detail but some lessons learned. Keep track of the way all the plastic aggitator pieces go in, plus the washers and clips along the way. Deep well 1/2" I think socket for the tub, it's litely spring loaded so look before you set it down. Punching off the nut on the tub worried me, but it was no big deal. Loosens and tightens the normal directions, no positive tight stop, just compression so pay attention to how tight and hard you pounded to get it off. Drain the water from the inner tub before getting too far. I took the four springs off and removed both tubs to clean. No more complaining about brown spots on clothes. Get the whole clutch kit, not just the band, even though it's probably just the band worn out. The plastic clutch engaging piece will probably be fatigued. The motor etc is heavy, and buffered it's drop with rags. tip on side when putting it back, because its a bear to try to lift up. I lightly greased some moving parts, just not much as to not cause band grip problems. The wire retaining clip is tricky- I put the hook end in first, used pliers to try and compress, and screwdriver to push down and in. The whole things wants to spin while you do this, but when it finally goes, it stays. I was concerned about the location of the band spring in relation to it's actuator when putting it together, but it turned out if you put it anywhere where the clutch is free to spin, it will engage normally. The top lid has two rubber bumpers, one fell off and landed on the front bottom corner of the cover which didn't help reinstallaion until my 8year old noticed it! Took a number of tries but finally got the four guides from the frame into the cover. I tried bringing it in level, front tipped sligthly up, front tipped slightly down; in the end I won't be much help, it just finally went. It wasn't as easy as most people said it would be, but my back hurt and I had kids "help", and it took just under two hours. Works amazingly well now. Parts arrived Two days after ordering, with no expiditing!

I just replaced the spring just like the vid show me.it run's like a new one-I bought it used about 5 yr's ago

The tough part was replacing the front cabinet.
I did consult the video for help on replacing the clutch spring.
Thank you for that bit.

I admit to taking too much apart, most of the cabinet back can be left alone.
Some of the plastic wire keepers/routers suffered, as well as the console hinges.

The newly reassembled washer works without a hitch, and truely it took me about 4 hours over several days to dissamble and reassemble.
It is louder in the audible range than before, but very serviceale for another 20 years, saints willing.