IFW7200TW10 Inglis Washer - Instructions

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Simple 2x cross head screws remove water inlet pipe, 2 internal pipes with spring clips, 2 electrical connectors test for leaks and operation perfect

I took the two screws off the back that holds the top down, lifted it , then pulled it back to remove. After this was removed, there were two more screws holding down the assy-s housing and drawer. First remove drawer where you add the soap and softners. Then I pulled that back and the assy-s housing drawer just snaps onto the housing. I pulled the drawer off, then I took the four hoses that are connected to the back and put on the new one in their respected spot. I snapped it back on and reassembled. You don't need a maytag repair man to do this job.

Pull washer away from wall and find two screws in back next to top edge. Undo and pull top of machine off (lip on fron edge under face cover). reach down and unplug three plugs on door latch small one on top, biggest on bottom. Unscrew the three screw holding the latch on the front of the machine, take out the old and put in the new. Note, I pluged in the plugs before screwing the new one in place, and that might be easier. Put the top back on.
I couldn't find any way to adjust the door, so you still have to lift it up when closing.

The dog ate the door latch so I ordered a new one. All I had to do was unscrew the old one, remove, and screw in the new one. Super easy. Took longer to find the screwdriver than it did to make the repair.

The best way to do it is not the way I started.
The best way is to 1st remove the bellow's front clamp with a small screwdriver at the spring. 2. unplug the 3 sets of wires attached to the lock. 3. remove the 3 screws on the front that hold the lock. 4. remove the plastic ribbon harness that attaches to the lock. 5. remove the old lock. 6. install the lock back carefully moving aside the cables. 7. install the 3 screws. 8. attach the ribbon harness. 9. attach the cables. 10. replace the bellow. 10. replace the clamp (here you may need someone's help to keep the rubber in place.) 11. the last part to fall in place is where the spring is. 12. If you can't do all by tact then you may want to remove the 3 screws from the top cover to be able to c where all fits.

(1) Remove all screws keeping them organized as a set,(some are larger than others,for the glass frame only. After all screws are removed remove frame from the door.(2) Remove old glass and replace with the new one and put it all ack together.

removed all the panels to change the door latch switch
plug in three plugs ...works great
Thank you

Took off top. Removed front control panel.Removed top screws on front door panel,then I had access to door lock for removal.Had to replace door latch also as this was broken while trying to close door before we noticed the door lock was not working.

Removed the washer tub gasket and then removed the door part that I order . It was real easy to replace it and the tub gasket . Took about 8 min to complete everything .

In this model the 2 main springs hang from a bracket built into the top of the machines frame. For some reason one of the pring was installed without the protective plastic grommet (called the guide spring washer). The handened spring eventually wore through the softer metal bracket due to the vibration of the washer.
The purchsed plastic part fit into the bracket so firlmy that even with part of the bracket wore away it appears to be still strong wnough to support the weight of the tub. It has made it through 10 loads so far and it still working well.
Getting at the spring was easy but lifting the tub was heavy. Thanks - $4 part saved a $1000 washer.

so simple could not beleive .

First I removed the retainer ring and then pulled back enough of the boot to get the door switch out and plugged in the new switch put the retainer ring back on and it was finished. With out the repair book I would have been lost on how to do the job.

Removed 2 screws from rear of top that hold top of washer in place, lifted top at the rear and slid it back then lifted it off. Removed the three wiring harnesses from old switch, removed the three screws holding switch in place, theses are accessed from the door opening. removed the two lower screws first and held the switch from the top while removing the last screw. Placed new switch in place and started the top screw by hand followed by hand starting the remaining two screws, tightened screws with phillips screw driver, reconnected the three harnesses, reinstalled the top and secured with the two screws. Door locks and unlocks as it is supposed to.

Started doing it following directions online, they all skip the hard part which is putting the boot back in. Gave up before damaging it and called professional. - If you want to do this repair you absolutely should remove the full front panel of the washer and be very patient. it will take a while if you aren't used to doing them. all the videos show performing this repair WITH the front panel on. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS! Remove the front panel and install without it on!