WBSE3120B2CC General Electric Washer - Instructions

e.g. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) that were easy

1, remove agitator. 2 on top of the agitiataor coupling you will see a bolt. Rap lightly with a hammer and with vice grips gently remove the bolt. why vice grips if its been in there for awhile this will be your best choice. No worries the kit comes with a new one.3 Pull the coupling sraight up and out. 4. Align the splines of the new coupling with shaft and gently tap the new one on. 5 Lube the oring and tighten bolt. 6 align the splines of the agitator and gently seat the agiator all the way down. might take awhile to align everything.
trouble shooting tip remove the front cover, turn machine on and hold the agitator, no, not the kid, the one in the machine. If the agitator stops moving but the machine continues to work and the belt or pump shaft turns its the coupling.

I bought 3 parts for I didn't know what I need so I listen to the companies video twice.
I popped off the agitator which was easy. then had a little trouble with getting the screw/nut out it was rusty. Finally got that off then I worked backwards and I found I didn't need all the parts which I sent back with no problems. My machine works as good as new ,it has stopped making noise. I am really proud I did this by myself and didn't need my husbands help,

I also spent less than 12.00 to fix and a new one is over 600.00.

Thank You
Christine brooks

The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.

I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.

Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.

The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.

The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.

The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.

It seemed to be the water level control so I purchased and installed a new one.
Condition persisted.
Finally figured out that it was the water control valve. If I throttled back on the shut off valve the water control valve operated fine as this reduced the pressure on that valve.
However, by this time the wife had enough so we bought a new machine.
Existing machine continued to operate okay with the shut off valve partially closed until replaced by the new one.
Oops.

Blowing hard into the drain hose would force the water off the impeller and allow the pump to reach proper speed to correctly drain. Start by unplugging the machine. To replace the pump, I simply removed the front cover of the washer. There are 2 clips to release along the top of the cover, then carefully pry forward and then lift it off the bottom clips. There are two wires which were a bit stubborn to remove. Carefully wiggle and pull with pliers, and be sure to note which one goes where. There were 2 bolts to attach the pump to the machine, which I removed using a 1/4" drive socket set, the size of the bolt head escapes me - on the small side anyhow. Also two squeeze clamps holding 2 hoses, which were easily removed using pliers. Pull the hoses and watch a pint to a quart of water dump out on the floor. Reverse the process to install. The hoses are tucked back in there, so you may want a flashlight to make sure you get the clamps back on correctly. Replace the front cover, and dont forget to plug the machine back in and you are ready to rock.

1- Shut off water and unplug unit
2- Wedge flat head screwdriver in between front panel and side panel of washer and remove the front. (1 minute)
3- Get a towel and a bucket (if you still have water in it) and drain remaining water from back of washer first... Then be prepared for about 20oz more of water when disconnecting the old pump. (5 minutes)
4- disconnect old pump it will look slightly different then the one you bought! (3 minutes)
5- re attach new pump with the same hose clamps and reattach the front panel (5 minutes)
6- fill it with some water/ spin it out

15 minutes - 30 minutes tops!
Good luck Matt East Islip NY

Use flat head screw driver to push in clips that hold on front panel.
use plyers to remove hose clamps on motor and remove hoses.
use nut driver and remove two screws holding bracket in place. disconnect two wire plugs.
Install motor and work above in reverse.
very simple 15min job at most.

I pulled the top off of the washer and found that my leak was coming from a small hole in the hose and water inlet. I had to remove 2 small bolts and a hose clamp to remove the old part,I did the reverse to install new part.

This was a easy job for the do it your selfer. I had no problem the part ,it was like the same one I took off. Now I know where to come for parts . It was perfect . Thanks again

Unpluged from out let. the I just took the front off then I took the bolts out of the mounting bracket and the took the hoses off unpluged the plug. We pluged the plug in the new piece put the hoses back on rebolted the braket down put the front on and plug the eletric back in and did the load thank you soo much

Repair went great. The large nut had to be soaked to free it but the part was an exact fit.

Replaced pump. New pump same manufacturer and model, but better built; however, base plate not same, requiring that I swap it for the original. Also, pump suction inlet is straight-in, whereas original has 90 degree connection. Disconnect power, and remove old pump. Purchase a 1 1/2" I.D. auto radiator hose, cut off use the 90 degree bend; it's a perfect fit to pump conn.; use a 1" PVC coupling on other end socket to mate to the washer drum convoluted drain hose socket. Throw away the crappy original G.E. hard-to-use spring hose clamps and use stainless steel automotive type gear clamps instead. WARNING: Do not try to bend, stretch, or kink the rubber tub drain hose to fit up to the pump without installing an elbow; the installation geometry must be exactly the same as the factory-designed installation. To finish the job, power up and run the machine through several cycles with the front cover off to check for leaks. You will also see why the rubber drain hose must be reinstalled as described above. This washer does not ramp down speed when in the spin cycle, and when the motor stops, the drum makes a sudden 15 to 30 degree rotation, stretching the drain hose to it's limit. Finally, keep your hands out of the machine when it's running; the motor, belt, and transmission drive can cause some real damage if you get tangled up in them. Pay attention to what you are doing; if you are confused by my little dissertation, hire someone qualified to do the job for you.

Pull front cover and changed pump. Your delivery of this part was remarkable. Thanks for such good service.

Took new one out of package, and push it on. 4 seconds!