WSM27TCCWWB General Electric Washer - Instructions

Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.

took of the front cover. then i took off the plastic cover on top of the water pump. then i unbolted the water pump and disconnected the hoses. i had to rotate the water pump connections. i swap the base of the pump and then bolted it back in place connected the water hoses back and then put the plastic cover back on. and to finish i put the front cover back and i was done.

I had replaced the pump 5 years earlier and now it was leaking again. When I removed the old pump, I discovered a bobby pin had made its way into the pump and was chewing up the housing, causing a small hole. This was a very simple repair as the pump sits right in the bottom front of the machine. The most difficult part was removing the old hoses and re-attaching them to the new pump. Four bolts/screws and two electrical connectors, which cannot be confused, made this an easy fix.

At first I thought the o-ring may have wear out so I took the pump out to check, but the leak was either from the shaft seal or body itself (hard to tell as body had corrosion on it) taken out the pump was very easy, but you need to use the right pliers to easily remove the spring clamps. Follow instruction to set the housing orientation, and than install back the pump. Reinstalling one of he hoses using the spring clamps took few tries, but it was in place in no time. remember not to install the cover before you operate the washer to verify no leaks. This work is realy very very easy.

i took the hose of and stuck the water hose in it and saw a lin hole leak. i order a new hose and recived it very fast (1 day) took 15 min to put it on the pump and to put the machine back togther

part was fast easy to put on know work better then before

Replacing the pump assembly only involved:
1. Unplugging the washing machine!
2. Removing 2 screws to take off the washing machine's lower front panel.
3. Removing 2 bolts to take off the cover over the remote pump assembly.
4. Changing out the pumps required:
A. Unscrewing the 2 screws that secure the assembly harness to the washing machine's base.
B. Unclasping the 2 tubes using curved jaw pliers.
C. Disconnecting the electrical connectors by hand.
D. Removing 2 bolts from the assembly harness and the pump assembly.
5. Reverse steps 1 - 4 to install the new pump.

This is the third time it has been replaced. They last about 2-3 years. Made sure pump was full of water before starting etc so we didn't start with a "dry" pump.

The actual repair and parts ordering went just fine.

Scotty

Open up the unit's lid first and then removed the front panel. Then I removed the broken belt and then routed the new belt around drum, through the belt tensioner, and onto to the motor pulley. I checked to make sure the belt was securely in place and if it would rotate the drum. Once I was positive it was in place I put the dryer panels back together, plug in the dryer, and tested operation. The only thing that was difficult was trying to figure out the routing of the belt through the tensioner because the old belt wasn't in place anymore. In all it was a 45 minute job.

I removed the two screws inside the door and popped the top loose. I took the top off to see and have access to the interior. I leaned the front out and inserted the belt around the drum (with my wife's help), replaced the screws and laid the dryer on it's face on a rolled up blanket and proceeded to run the belt around the pulleys (two). The drive pulley was easy but the idler pulley, not so easy. I had to figure out how the pulley arm was supposed to provide tension on the belt. I figured it out by looking at the diagram. It was then I found the idler pulley was broken and fell apart in my hand. I advise that a new pulley be installed at the same time as the belt. Everything I read on your web site helped.

disconneted power removed two screws removed led the front clamp removed quiet hose remplace for new

Remove old pump, only a scrwedriver needed.
Save myself @ $100

I removed the front cover and top of the dryer by removing screws visible from opening the dryer door. I then had to figure out exactly how the belt was set around the drum and other pulleys. With the belt around the drum and around the motor rotor, the other pulley had to be very forcibly pushed towards the drum in order to get the belt seated correctly. This being my first dryer repair, I was unsure of how the belt was needed to placed. But eventually figured it out using pictures from the internet. The second pulley required a lot of force and I had to squeeze my hand and arm under the drum of the dryer in order to make the belt fit correctly with enough slack to reach around the second pulley.

removed two phillips screws from front panel, removed front panel and raised top cover, had my wife hold up top cover while i removed belt and installed new one, reassembled in reverse order, turned on dryer and checked for proper operation, and yes i did unplug the unit. worked great!!

no problem open top remove front install new belt