WSM27TCCWWB General Electric Washer - Instructions

After not being able to get the proper 10 foot hose, and having to splice two drain hoses together....turned out it was not the drain hose after all, but the pump. Some sort of "baffle" in the drain hose, where the rubber connector at the pump end and the corrugated hose joins, was blocking the water I thought. It may have been since a spliced the new hose in at that end. However, I think it was the pump.

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

Fairly easy repair to replace the discharge pump assembly. Remove the access door, pump shield, disconnected the hoses, remove the hoses, and the pump housing screws. Orientation of the water pump had to be changed to match original, easily done by rotating the pump hosing. Installed in reverse order and job was complete

At first I thought the o-ring may have wear out so I took the pump out to check, but the leak was either from the shaft seal or body itself (hard to tell as body had corrosion on it) taken out the pump was very easy, but you need to use the right pliers to easily remove the spring clamps. Follow instruction to set the housing orientation, and than install back the pump. Reinstalling one of he hoses using the spring clamps took few tries, but it was in place in no time. remember not to install the cover before you operate the washer to verify no leaks. This work is realy very very easy.

I had replaced the pump 5 years earlier and now it was leaking again. When I removed the old pump, I discovered a bobby pin had made its way into the pump and was chewing up the housing, causing a small hole. This was a very simple repair as the pump sits right in the bottom front of the machine. The most difficult part was removing the old hoses and re-attaching them to the new pump. Four bolts/screws and two electrical connectors, which cannot be confused, made this an easy fix.

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.

This is the third time it has been replaced. They last about 2-3 years. Made sure pump was full of water before starting etc so we didn't start with a "dry" pump.

The actual repair and parts ordering went just fine.

Scotty

Replacing the pump assembly only involved:
1. Unplugging the washing machine!
2. Removing 2 screws to take off the washing machine's lower front panel.
3. Removing 2 bolts to take off the cover over the remote pump assembly.
4. Changing out the pumps required:
A. Unscrewing the 2 screws that secure the assembly harness to the washing machine's base.
B. Unclasping the 2 tubes using curved jaw pliers.
C. Disconnecting the electrical connectors by hand.
D. Removing 2 bolts from the assembly harness and the pump assembly.
5. Reverse steps 1 - 4 to install the new pump.

disconneted power removed two screws removed led the front clamp removed quiet hose remplace for new

Remove old pump, only a scrwedriver needed.
Save myself @ $100

I removed the two screws inside the door and popped the top loose. I took the top off to see and have access to the interior. I leaned the front out and inserted the belt around the drum (with my wife's help), replaced the screws and laid the dryer on it's face on a rolled up blanket and proceeded to run the belt around the pulleys (two). The drive pulley was easy but the idler pulley, not so easy. I had to figure out how the pulley arm was supposed to provide tension on the belt. I figured it out by looking at the diagram. It was then I found the idler pulley was broken and fell apart in my hand. I advise that a new pulley be installed at the same time as the belt. Everything I read on your web site helped.

Open up the unit's lid first and then removed the front panel. Then I removed the broken belt and then routed the new belt around drum, through the belt tensioner, and onto to the motor pulley. I checked to make sure the belt was securely in place and if it would rotate the drum. Once I was positive it was in place I put the dryer panels back together, plug in the dryer, and tested operation. The only thing that was difficult was trying to figure out the routing of the belt through the tensioner because the old belt wasn't in place anymore. In all it was a 45 minute job.

removed two phillips screws from front panel, removed front panel and raised top cover, had my wife hold up top cover while i removed belt and installed new one, reassembled in reverse order, turned on dryer and checked for proper operation, and yes i did unplug the unit. worked great!!

I removed the front cover and top of the dryer by removing screws visible from opening the dryer door. I then had to figure out exactly how the belt was set around the drum and other pulleys. With the belt around the drum and around the motor rotor, the other pulley had to be very forcibly pushed towards the drum in order to get the belt seated correctly. This being my first dryer repair, I was unsure of how the belt was needed to placed. But eventually figured it out using pictures from the internet. The second pulley required a lot of force and I had to squeeze my hand and arm under the drum of the dryer in order to make the belt fit correctly with enough slack to reach around the second pulley.

no problem open top remove front install new belt