WSM27TCCWWB General Electric Washer - Instructions

Just installe

Very easy
Unhook electricity
Took bottom front cover off
Took plastic motor cover off
Unhooked electrical connections
Moved clams on hoses and took hoses off
Took bolts out that held in pump
Took bottom bracket off of old pump and put it on new pump
Turned the adjustable hose connection to the right same posstion as old pump
Bolted new pump on
Connected the water hoses
Connected the electrical connections
Bolted plastic motor guard back on
Bolted on front bottom cover
Plugged in and Wallaa!!!
I run one load before installing front cover, to watch for leaks
And the video sent with email was very helpful
Thanks
And have a good day!

TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY

Removed old pump and installed new pump in same order. Only problem was reinstalling wire spring clamps with hoses on new pump. Not enough room to use pliers to open clamp. Otherwise a simple installation. A small vise grip pliers might help to hold clamp open. Check and rotate inlet/outlet end of pump as included directions describe first before installation.

Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!

I followed the directions I found on my tablet on youtube.

Follow the instructions from YOUTUBE to replace the new drive belt..

I watched the video you had. Did what the man said, checked out the parts, and orded the new ones. Then installed , as per video. It was Fun.

Replaced it as one would. I took off the front facing and replaced the belt. It took a bit of searching to find the proper way to route the belt around the pulley.

It took a while since it was my first time and I wasn't sure what to take apart and what to leave intact.

If I were to do it again, it would take 30 minutes or less.

After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.

I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.

I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.

The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.

The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.

Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.

Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves.

Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.

I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.

After not being able to get the proper 10 foot hose, and having to splice two drain hoses together....turned out it was not the drain hose after all, but the pump. Some sort of "baffle" in the drain hose, where the rubber connector at the pump end and the corrugated hose joins, was blocking the water I thought. It may have been since a spliced the new hose in at that end. However, I think it was the pump.

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

Drain hose should come with the two clips (45B)that hold the drain hose to the back of the machine. I had to cut the old hose off. Then very carefully remove the clips from the inside of the machine with a pair of pliers.

Fairly easy repair to replace the discharge pump assembly. Remove the access door, pump shield, disconnected the hoses, remove the hoses, and the pump housing screws. Orientation of the water pump had to be changed to match original, easily done by rotating the pump hosing. Installed in reverse order and job was complete