GCVH6260F0GG General Electric Washer - Instructions

Took it apart per the video and reinstalled

The repair video was almost perfect. I would not have even attempted the repair without the video as I am not a handyman at all. The diagnostic feature based on the symptoms was invaluable. I originally took the front of the washer off because I thought the rubber seal around the door was leaking.It was like 67% of the problem. But after checking the front seal carefully, I determined it wasn't. The next most likely issue as only rated 19% but when the water inlet pipe, I was actually tickled to see a crack in the plastic pipe. I ordered on line on Monday and with the cheapest shipping, I received my part in the mail on Thursday. I would highly recommend using Part Select for diagnostic, parts and repair. I will definitely use again. If I could make one recommendation to Part Select, it would be to do a close up during the video when the technician is working with a part, i.e., the wiring that goes around the rubber seal.

I won't bother repeating other people's comments. My repair took a bit over 2 hours. I watched 2 different videos and thought the repair was doable. To remove the first wire band holding the boot seal to the front panel I found using an awl to grab the eyelet near the spring was easier than using a needle nose recommended in the video. To remove the second wire band I used an offset screwdriver. One video I watched recommended removing the lower counterweight to get at the band's screw - I did not do that. Putting the new boot seal into the first groove and installing the wire band was the most time consuming part of the job. I did not have extra hands to help. I recommend the second pair of hands for that part to save time. The rest of the install was easy.

followed partselect video instructions. Easy but takes time. Thank you

Watch the video posted on PartSelect. It was excellent and walked step by step through the whole repair.

I only ran into one issue not included in the video. In order to remove the inner ring holding the boot seal, I had to remove the weight at the bottom of the tub. This is easy to remove with a wrench, but took two people to reinstall. You only need the second person for 1-2 minutes to hold the weight while you align the bolts.

The most difficult part is ensuring you replace the hex nuts and screws in the same location. I took pictures as i removed them to know where to reinstall.

Total repair time was probably 1.5 hours.

Before disassembling anything be really sure that the little things are reassembled just as they were prior to removal.....

My part came in and my husband was at work so..... I did not want to wait for him to come home to wash my clothes! I installed the motor myself and I was not even the one that took it off! It was so easy to do! Turned the washer on and bingo it was back and going! So glad I can get the parts myself and avoid the middle man and his bill!!! Hook up the drain hose with pliers and screw the motor to the frame and that's it!

You probably won't want to publish this but it worked. The baffle on the GE washer I have required a complete tear down of the machine's front and outer waterproof drum to get a tiny little screw out. Very poor design if you ask me. And, I was not about to pay a technician for a massive overhaul to get a 3/8" long stainless screw off the broken remains of the baffle. So, I measured how far over the screw was from the pipe that feeds detergent, softener and bleach into the drum. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the outer drum. After removing the screw and installing the new baffle (which took all of about 2 minutes), I put a 3/8" hole plug I bought at Lowes into the hole with two part plastic epoxy. Then I covered the entire hole plug with a crown of epoxy. Five minutes later when the epoxy set, I ran a load of clothes. It ran perfectly and did not leak. I know. I know. This is not what you would recommend to your readers but it worked. I was brought up fixing everything around the home and any effectie shortcut was/is used. Oh,by the way, if you know which GE engineer thought up the design for this baffle installation, whack him on the head once.

The cycles were taking forever, then would not finish, water running in even when it was supposed to drain. Unplugged washer and water would still run, I had to turn off the water valve. I just removed the top with phillips screwdriver, removed the old valve by uncoupling the water hose, the two electric connectors and the two one screw holding it in place. It fixed the problem completely, washer working 100% now.

removed the spring-loaded ring around drum seal, removed old lock latch, and installed new lock latch. also, removed old door plunger and installed new one. then re-installed the spring-loaded ring lock around the seal. there were 5 screws and 3 electrical plugs that were easy to remove and re-install. note: i used a black sharpie to mark where the original door plunger was prior to removing the original.

I followed the instruction on your site. I disconnected the power to the washer turned off the water turned on the nearest faucets to drain the lines. I removed the water hoses from the machine then took the three screws out of the back at the top of machine that held the lid on then removed the three screws on the top of the lid that hold the plastic piece to the front panel and pushed the lid toward the back and it lifted off. I then took the metal ring clamp off the water line attached to the water inlet valve and took the screw out that is on the back of the machine holding it on removed the wire plugs one at a time and put them one at a time on the new inlet valve so I would not get them mixed up. I then put the valve in place reconnected the water hose and metal clamp put the screw in the back to reattach valve the machine put the lid back on in reverse to removal reattached water hoses to the inlet valve turned the water back on plug in the power and immediately used the machine which works like new 20 minute job from beginning to end. By the way ladies if I can do it you can do it. TC

Any repair should go easily if you have the right tools and the right PARTS. Like the before mentioned and all went well. The hardest thing about this particular water leak is identifining were the leak is. These parts are on the top of the washer. Take the top off and whamo there it is the cracked fill tube and smashed to hell washer. Real easy to replace. BUT that is really putting a band-aid on the problem. To me this washer was poorly designed by GE. Washer sits on a thick rubber mat, which sits on a conrcete floor and still jumps around, mainly when towels are in it.Fix that problem and then replacing these parts is a one time deal.

hold drive pulley from turning and used socket wrench to remove nut. then pulled off pulley from shaft and belt came off same time. very carefully filed the flat sides of the shaft end where the pulley slides onto. careful not to overfile or round out the she shaft end. carefully tap in place the pulley onto the shaft. install a new nut and tighten it approx. 40 ft pounds or 1/4 turn past tight. do not reuse old nut. pulley comes with a new one and the nylon on the old one is no good once used. once pulley is tight install the belt first onto the motor shaft then work the other end of the belt onto the pulley from top end then turn the pulley wheel counter clockwise as you push more belt onto the pulley wheel. kind of like putting on your bicycle tire on your rim.

After looking at the video on how to repair a door boot seal on a Front Loader Washer. I went about installing the new boot seal, but after it still didn't fit in place correctly, I glanced over the top and noticed and after a few minutes noticed that one of the suspension springs was broken and the drum had dropped quite a bit. I ordered the spring I believe it was part 204 and in a couple days I and my father got the spring in place and now the washer is working as good as new. As it turns out I didn't need the door boot seal after all so now I have a backup incase one fails.

Took of back and lower panel to check where leak was look up and notice the plastic piece cracked and then look up diagram of model and ordered part. Once it arrived it didn't take very long to repair. Easy to a bit difficult and no more leaks.