GUAP270EM0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Removed two screws to remove top to access drum. Removed two screws to remove front panel. Easily removed drum bearing and snapped in new bearing. 4 Glides were slid into slots. Only one problem. My service parts list called for drum bearing #WE3X37. I was sent #WE3M26. I was assured this was the right part for my dryer. Although the part did fit, I was unable to use the existing light because the the hole on new bearing was too small to accommodate it. Replacement of drum bearing would not be necessary if GE would put visible labels on dryer warning consumers of preventive maintenance of glides that wear.

Replacing the front slides is easy. Just buy the parts and pop them in. The rear drum bearing is also easy, and you do not have to spend $50. Once I had the parts in hand, which is an axle from the rear of the drum and a bearing sleeve from the rear of the dryer cabinet, it looked quite simple and it is. I went to a hardward store, bought a bronze bearing that fit the axle and the sleeve and a C-clip. Cut the bearing to the correct length with a pipe cutter, and retain over the axle with the clip. Grease it up, and put the dryer back together. Total cost, $5. It works great.

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.

removed top, 2ea screws ;removed front door,2 screws; removed left side panel,screws on bottom and back; removed belt,pulled out drum. replaced top drum bearing,installed green and white slides,re assembled w/ new belt,ops. check ok.

Dryer started making screeching noises while running, got progressively worse. Without taking it apart first, I ordered a front drum bearing and slides because this site said it fixed the problem the majority of the time. The site said replace the slides in pairs, but there are actually four. I picked up 2 more at a local appliance store, at roughly twice the price. Turned out I didn't need th replace the plastic piece called drum bearing, just the 4 slides that clip onto it. It is really easy to get the top and front off with just a phillips screwdriver. I did not check the rear center main bearing, as it requred removing the drum. The squealing lessended but it still was bad. Took it back apart and pulled the drum, and fount the rear main bearing bad. I found one at the same local store for only 2 bucks more than on this site. This was a bit more of a hassle, you really need two people to get it mounted to the drum. Tip-pre thread the holes with the self tapping screws, it makes it easier to get it together. There was a bit of lint build up under the drum heating element cover, so it was good to clean that out. Also blew all the dirt out of the motor with compressed air and shop vac. There was a access panel on back to get to the motor and belt tensioner. Got the dryer all buttoned up and now it runs nice and quiet.

The dryer was very noisy when it would start. The drum had warn the pads out and the drum was riding on the drum bearing. It really isn't a bearing more of a big piece of plastic. On the bearing are 4 slides (2 white and 2 green). These are easy to replace if the bearing is good. I let mine go too long and wore part of the bearing off. To fix: UNPLUG! Open the door and find 2 screws facing upward screwed into the top. Remove these 2 screws and remove the top. Take notice of how it comes out of the dash. On each side of the front panel (from inside) there is a smaller screw with a bigger head, remove both of these. You can now lift the front panel away from the drum and pull the front panel right out. It would be a good time to take a shop vac and clean all the lint out of this. Mine was almost full. If you are changing the bearing it is held in place with clips built on the bearing. Remove and replace. Put on the new slides as well. There is a little tab on the bearing and a hole in the slide. put the hole over the tab. The green ones I put on the top and the whites on the outter sides. Put the bottom of the panel in first and line up the drum on the new bearing, replace the 2 big headed screws, line up the top in the dash and lower into position, replace the 2 screws up inside the door and you are done. I have no dryer experience and would rate this job on a scale of 1-10 to about a 3 or a 4. There were no real suprizes.

Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.

By watching your video which was very helpful as I never made this repair before. All worked out fine. Since then I have ordered other parts., (drum bearing kit, door slides and a new belt.) The video on replacing the drum kit is very helpful too. One other fact is prices beat all other sites I looked and when I'm done the dryer will be "rebuilt" I recommend your parts to everyone., they are great quality.

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

Unplug the dryer. Remove top panel (remove two screws on the upper inside edge of the dryer door). Lift the front panel from front (tabs and slots at the back) and lift off. Remove the front panel (remove a screw from each side - top/front). Front panel sits on two feet at the bottom, tilt it forward from the top and lift it up (careful not to damage the electrical connection at the bottom left side). I found the dryer had another damaged part (plastic guide that the Slide WH and the Drum Slides connected to was badly worn). After ordering the additional part I attached the slides (white and gray) to the guide. Set the front panel back on the two feet and tilt it back into place (you'll need to slightly raise the drum back into position - easy). Replace the two screws that connect the front panel. Replace the top cover. The whole repair took less than 1/2 an hour including the time it took to vacuum out the dust. Total cost, about $35!

Poped the top off took out two screws, pulled the front off removed the old parts and put in the new ones.

Removed 2 screws to remove top. Removed 2 other screws to remove front. Removed old parts. Installed new parts. Reassemble all afetr cleaning duct work out.

Took off control panel,top,leftside facing door,and,door panel. Replace the 2 green and 2 white slides, the front drum bearing, the rear bearing and groundind strap behind the heating element,and new belt. Put back together,run's and sounds like new. The hardest part was putting drum bearing in inside and backside of drum by yourself. Replace belt with left side panel off. Easy to get on that way.

When I first ordered the part, I did not know I needed 4 slides for the bearing. 2 of my slides had disintegrated. Make sure you have 2 good white slides, and 2 good blue slides, or order them with the bearing, or you will pay another $7.50 for shipping.
Once I got all of the parts and put it together using only common sense, I found it was binding tight. So I realigned the back of the drum that I had messed up while I was trying to diagnose the problem.
Parts Select definitely helped with diagnosis, through this comment section.
Thanks!

Took off the top and front of the dryer---really easy, just two screws for each. Put new drum slides (4) on the front/sides of the drum. Then things got a little bit more difficult. Removed the drum entirely, vaccuumed everything out and had to replace the rear bearings. My husband did this part so I can't tell you exactly how he did it. Not too difficult though. The written directions from here were hard to read---need to make a new copy from the original as it's so copied that it's all smudged. Anyway, once we got the new bearings on, we put everything back together. Dryer works like a charm, at a fraction of the cost it would have been to get someone out to do it. Thanks a bunch for the fast service!