GBXR2080T3AB General Electric Washer - Instructions

The pump arrived and because I'd read some of the other stories here I wasn't too upset that it looked different.

I used pliers to squeeze the hose clamps and remove them from the old pump. The hex screws holding the old pump in were sort of rusty due to water, and were the majority of the miminal problem I had getting the old pump out. I put the new one in easily, fussed with the hoses a bit to make sure the clamps were in the right spot, plugged in the two leads, and ran a load.

The new pump was so quiet that I wasn't sure it was even working. Of course it was, and for $50 I gave myself a washing machine that works again. Thanks, guys.

This site and buying experience WOWED ME!!! After realizing what happened, I searched how to open up a washer, since I had never done it before. My search brought me to your site, which had an excellent 'how to' video for my exact problem of replacing the pump! I ordered the part, which was delivered to my door in LESS than 24 hours! Unfortunately, there was undrained water in the washing machine so while undoing the clamps on the old pump, the water drained on my kitchen floor, so beware of that issue. Because of the positioning of the pump, the clamps were a little tricky to redo, but completed without too much difficulty. I also had to 'unplug' (with a coat hanger snake)the drain tube connecting the pump to the back of the washing machine so it could flow to the outside drain pipe. This was the best internet buying experience I have ever had! Thank you so much! I fixed a 15 year old washing machine for about $40.00!!! (And I am a 57 year old grandmother ;-) Woohoo!!!

Replaced pump. New pump same manufacturer and model, but better built; however, base plate not same, requiring that I swap it for the original. Also, pump suction inlet is straight-in, whereas original has 90 degree connection. Disconnect power, and remove old pump. Purchase a 1 1/2" I.D. auto radiator hose, cut off use the 90 degree bend; it's a perfect fit to pump conn.; use a 1" PVC coupling on other end socket to mate to the washer drum convoluted drain hose socket. Throw away the crappy original G.E. hard-to-use spring hose clamps and use stainless steel automotive type gear clamps instead. WARNING: Do not try to bend, stretch, or kink the rubber tub drain hose to fit up to the pump without installing an elbow; the installation geometry must be exactly the same as the factory-designed installation. To finish the job, power up and run the machine through several cycles with the front cover off to check for leaks. You will also see why the rubber drain hose must be reinstalled as described above. This washer does not ramp down speed when in the spin cycle, and when the motor stops, the drum makes a sudden 15 to 30 degree rotation, stretching the drain hose to it's limit. Finally, keep your hands out of the machine when it's running; the motor, belt, and transmission drive can cause some real damage if you get tangled up in them. Pay attention to what you are doing; if you are confused by my little dissertation, hire someone qualified to do the job for you.

Removed front cover, disconnected wires and hoses, reversed process

Removed the front of the washer, screwdriver used. Disconnected the electrical wires from the pump. Removed the two bolts from the water pump bracket, socket wrench used. Disconnected the pump to exterior drain hose, plumbers wrench used to loosen tension clips. Drained all the water out of the washer tub, not easy not very neat. Disconnected the washer tub to water pump drain hose. Removed debris that was in the hose. Then connect the hoses to the new pump, bolted the bracket back in place, put the front of the washer back on.

Easiest thing I ever did on the computer. U tube helped me diagnose the problem and how to remove the old pump and install the new. Parts Select menu was easy to navigate and had a picture of the pump I needed. The cost was affordable and I got the satisfaction of making the repair myself.

The website was tremendous. Everything was right there, easy to understand. The 'repair' video was outstanding; made it sooooo much easier. Would use this site over and over again (but hope I don't have to use it that much! lol).

I followed the instructions on your website to diagnose the problem, select the part needed for the repair, and fix the problem. Everything was as described in the video.

Unfortunately, this washer doesn't have a front panel: to get to the belt, removed the back panel. Unfortunately, you can't get to the belt from there either, unless you turn the washing machine upside down. Since the top of the washer is not level (control panel sticks up), the washer needs to be tipped upside down onto something the washer lid rests on, but keeps the control panel off the ground. We used...a sled. Unfortunately, since it didn't drain the last time used, even though we bailed the tub, there was still a fair amount of water that drained out once upside down. This is a heavy washer - took 3 of us tipping it over carefully onto the sled. We unbolted the motor, put in new belt, but needed to put a piece of the shifter arm assembly in place, which came loose. Took 2 sets of hands to accomplish all this. Works now - 2 small loads of laundry done successfully.

Pulled washer away from wall. Observed problem. Ordered belt. Went on vacation. Cut belt in two to remove. Removed flex coupling to pump. Tried to force new belt onto big sheave, but couldn't really access properly. With help, tipped washer onto its front. Then access permitted forcing new belt onto big sheave by turning (only one direction permitted by gear box). Most of time spent cleaning up oil from gearbox which dripped on floor and splattered on back wall. Wonder how long 15 yr old gearbox will last?

Turns out it wasn't the belt. The belt was fine, worked without water, replaced in washer spot, reconnected water, worked fine. Put clothes in, wouldn't agitate, smelt burning again.

Washing machine stopped draining, was looking into buying a new one. Thought maybe it was the pump, looked on-line and found one for around $50.00. Recieved the pump in pretty good time (3 days) The repair was not too bad, although the "ring clamp" was not very easy to work with. Hard to work it around the hoses in such a tight spot.

Unfortunately this did not solve my problem. After further inspection I still have the burning smell and the washer cuts off after it Agitates for a few seconds then in a minute or so it will Agitate a few more seconds and then cut off again. I also replaced the control panel still have the same problem. I would say it is the motor but the motor works fine in Spin Cycle. As for the Pump replacement it is very simple just follow the instruction Video on this site and 15 minutes later your new pump is installed. I will keep the pump since my new Washer uses the same part. P.S. The burning smell is not coming from the belt. It's almost like some kind of circuit protector is tripping and then a few minutes later it lets the washer start again.

I pulled the front panel off as described in the video on Partselect.coms video (very helpfull) and unpluged the pump, I was able to test the original pump and determine it to be good and ultimatly that was not the problem. However had it been it would have been a simple fix. returning the unused part was super simple and painfree!

One of the fastest repairs that I have performed. Took less than 15 minutes. Unhook wires, removed haoding screws, unclamped hoses. Reversed the process to install the new unit. Shipping was incredible. Ordered the part at 1400 on Thursday and had the part in hand Friday at 0900. One of the best on-line experiences that I have ever had. Thanks a bundle, Richard