GCXR2100T2WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Pulled off front cover of machine. Unplugged unit. Used a channel lock (water pump pliers) to squeeze the hose clamp on the suction hose. Pulled hose off of pump suction. Did same for discharge hose. Some standing water came out onto floor of unit. Unscrewed 2 screws from base using nut driver. Pulled the 2 wires off of the stabs of pump. Re-installed new pump in reverse order. Unit back on line in 15 minutes, and works fine.

First i removed the bottom of washer and removed clamps from two hoses connected to the pump , removed 2 pump bolts along with wire connector. Then reinstalled new pump, hoses and wiring and that was it. Very easy !

Lay the washer on its side, unscrew three screw to loose the rotor, put the belt and screw the rotor back.

DISCONNECT POWER----1.- No pump sound when energized but I know it energized as the coil became a magnet. 2.- You need a drain pan to catch the water from the lower tub when the drain hose is disconnected from the pump. 3.- Water pump or channel lock pliers needed to remove the spring clamps on inlet and outlet from pump. 4.- Remove the 2 hold down bolts and the plug in power connection and the pump comes out very easily. 5.- On my pump I found a plastic tie wrap lodged in the pump impeller vanes-- this caused the pump either not to work at all or cause a cavitation effect caused the water in the tub not to drain completely. 6.- Since I had already purchased the new pump I installed the new pump and cleaned the old one to keep as a spare-- probably never going to need it though.7.- On the large diameter drain hose ( pump inlet ) I decided to use a auto hose clamp instead of the original spring clamp because the area to work on this pump is very cramped and getting the original spring clamp back on was very difficult. The hose clamp made it very easy and the seal was just fine. 8.- The new pump functions perfectly- PARTS SELECT delivered a quality OEM product and I am extremely satisfied with their normal delivery which was 2 days because the warehouse was only 150 miles from me.

Belt had worn and was shredding and melting due to pump not draining tub. Too bad my wife and daughters couldn't tell me the pump wasn't working right any sooner. The belts slow disintigration over time made a black, gooey mess inside the machine. Worked on the machine in place and only removed front. Old belt removal was easy with screwdriver prying around motor pulley but replacement was challenging in the tight space under the machine. It did go on by working-rotating belt around back of agitator pulley. By far the hardest part of the job. Replacing pump was easy enough but made a water mess and had to adjust clamps for leaks. Machine is now good to go.

We bought this used Hotpoint that was probably one of the original machine created back in the stone-age, it's so old. We've had it 10 months, and it's always had this... burnt rubber stink to it... then one day, it stopped agitating and sounded like a metal bucket of bolts being shaken. We're on a military income with five kids, and the idea of buying a new washer was just... heartbreaking. On a whim, having fixed a washer once before, we opened the front up and painstakingly pulled every last rubber fiber from what used to be the belt. Ordered the part. It shipped quick, arrived quick, and in under a week we were back in business. Someone else had mentioned the needing 1/4" socket, and I was glad I remembered that, because it made is SO much easier.

Gently turned washer over onto its front. Removed bottom metal panel (3 or 4 screws on each side). Removed old belt. Installed new belt. NOTE: The new belt is a tight and perfect fit, therefore it will not want fit on to both pulleys/ rotating discs. I have found the best method is to start the belt on the disc that drives the belt. Then place as much of the belt over the disc that sits below the washing machine drum as is possible(the spinning part)and then turn the belt by hand and the belt should pop on to the disc. If the belt goes on easily you may have the wrong belt as the belt must be tight to achieve the traction necessary for the washing machine to spin. HOPE THIS HELPS!! A screwdriver may be handy in helping to pry on the belt. Good look.

The motor assembly (630 in the parts diagram) has a spring pin in the drive shaft to connect the drive shaft to the clutch. The spring pin had shattered. Instead of replacing the entire motor assembly ($365), I ordered a new clip from PartSelect, and a new spring pin from McMaster-Carr. Used a screwdriver and mallet to drive out the old spring pin and install the new one. Reinstalled the clutch and clip and everything was good to go.