GBVH5300K2WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Remove the bottom panel. Remove the top. Remove the front panel with the door. Romove the two clamps on the boot seal. Remove the old boot seal. Place the new boot seal on the casing around the drum and ensure you put the gasket nozzle and gasket nozzle washer in place. Install the inside gasket clamp with the clamp bolt to the right as you look at it (Note: ensure the nut is over the tab on the boot gasket and stays lined up there as you tighten it. Replace the front panel of the washer and when it is in place put the boot seal on the outside lip (Note: this is the most difficult part as the gaskets does not like to stay in place as you put the outside clamp on. Replace the washer top. Replace the lower panel (Note: while you have the bottom panel off, you may want to clean the debrie trap which is a white pipe and tray that catches stuff that is left in pockets.) For the entire project I used 7mm and 8 mm sockets, flathead screw driver, and a philips head screw drive.

Best to watch youtube video and take the time to take washer apart and gain the access needed. I completed repair and dismantled the filter and cleaned it in about an hour, better than the average of 2 hours.

Removed top cover, loosened front door cover, removed & replaced old cracked plastic 'water inlet tube', reinstalled front door unit & top cover. Very tight space to work in when not completely removing front door unit.

After I disconnected the power and water and turned the washer around. I removed the back panel cover and the top and back panel to get to the pulley wheel. Once I remove the retaining nut and pulley the wheel off the spindle, i compared the new and the old parts and noticed the obvious wear on the old part, luckily the spindle was not damaged and still functional. Placing the new pulley wheel was a little more challenging. Once I seated the pulley wheel with a gentle tap from a rubber mallet. I fitted the lock nut onto the spindle and continued seating the wheel evenly using the nut to the prescribed torque pressure. After I reassembled the washer and reconnected the water and power, tested the washer, and success!

I watched the video and followed the instructions. First remove power. Remove the rear cover from the control panel and the top cover. Then remove screws that secure the control panel to the frame and remove the control panel. Remove the bottom cover. Then remove the lock ring that holds the rubber boot to the front panel. Remove the door and remove the water inlet pipe. Assemble the machine and run a test cycle.

I saw the video on how to remove the boot seal, and I just follow the instructions. Replacing the water inlet pipe was easy.

Removed top and front control panel. Shut off water, disconnect water lines at front and dispenser. Remove dispenser. Remove water inlet pipe by pulling out of boot. Install new pipe.Reverse proceedure. Note, these pipes may tend to split on the bottom.

Sandblasted spider to thoroughly clean it and increase ductility.We used aluminum foil covered in 5200 on one side to cover holes eaten through spider. Then glued the spider to the drum and filled inside rim of spider with a nice layer of 5200. If the spider was made of stainless steel, the washer would still be running great. Thanks

My husband read all of the posted notes and then went to the you tube video noted by one of the postings. He gives excellent instructions and the video can be paused as each step is completed. The most difficult steps were gaining access to the rear clamp and attaching the rear portion of the gasket. Inserted a phillips head driver bit into a 1/2" deep socket and then used the rachet to remove and re-install this clamp.

took off the top and back cover and noticed 4 shocks at the bottom of the Agitator frame. The problem was the Agitator assembly is suspended by 2 big springs and the shocks limit motion, but the whole assembly would move about 7 inches side to side which was not normal, and during the spin cycle it would violently bang the sides and make noise. The shocks/damper had a plastic pin at the bottom, which I pulled out first and the top had to be turned 90 degrees to snap off, so I replaced all 4 shocks with new ones. A bit tight quarters, but I had it done in about an hour. The washer is back to normal now.

Accessing the door seal was routine. Removing top and front covers was easy. Lower front cover was a challenge because the leaking door caused the screws holding the panel to rust, so extra effort had to be used not to strip the screw heads. Seal removal was easy, replacing the seal was much more difficult. The majority of the repair time was spent attaching the new seal to the drum. It became a tedious task with a large amount of trial and error. Replacing the front spring clamp also takes some time. Eventually I completed the repair and fixed the problem. I will say that if the washer breaks again, it's going to the dump.