GBVH5300K2WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

If the washer basket "crashes" or thumps while rotating, the spider must be replaced. I have found that, although difficult, the spider mounting bolts can be removed without sheering if starting to unscrew until it jams then hit the bolt once with a hammer and try again to unscrew. It will give just a little and keep repeating the process until the bolt is completely out. I have tried heating with a torch, chisel tapping and re-tapping the threads after drilling out the bolt but the method I described is the most successful. After removal I bring the spider to a local powder coating person for a permanent coating of preservation. This site provides the least expensive new spiders or spider basket assemblies available. E-Bay provides used items also.

Part came quickly, was exactly what I needed, 2 minutes later, washing clothes again.

removed 5 screws, unscrew two more screws, remove the houses and disconnect the wires remove the watter valve.

Disassembled washer to get access to power board, removed both power and start/pause switches and replaced them with new ones. Reassembled washer. Works well. The most difficult part of appliance
maintenance is learning how to disassemble the machine. Videos of the process are very helpful.

followed video on website

Disassembled the washer from the top down more or less. Started with top cover, then control panel then door assembly. After that removed all connections to drum. Removed belt, pulley, and then counterweights. Wires are all on harness with plugs, I took pics as I went for reference as to where they belong. The motor was left plugged in and slides out of the mount at the bottom of the tub after removing one bolt. To remove the door latch assembly, remove the front tub seal first then you can easily access it after you unscrew it. The shocks are a quarter turn release type mechanism. I broke two going back together after trying to lock them into place. Not sure why, maybe age of part had something to do with it, and they are hard to turn as well.

Unplug machine.
Remove band from front bellows by prying the spring at 6:00 o:clock loose.
Pull back bellows on right side.
Remove 3 torx screws and gently pull door each lock assembly out. Unplug 3 wire harness connectors and plug into new latch lock in same order.
Screw new latch lock in place and replace bellows and band.
Done

We ultimately rebuilt this washer because I love it so and it was one-half cheaper to rebuild than to buy new! We watched videos and researched the repair and then dove in. Yes, we had to tear the machine down but really it was not that bad of an ordeal. It ended up being much easier than we initially thought but once all the parts arrived we fixed it!

I ordered a new control board but couldn’t find any YOUTUBE instructions. Finally I found one where you got the control board and the panel so I had to take the panel off and attach it to the new board. Since I paid $372 for the board I was very scared, but the whole thing came back together and worked perfectly. All and all a scary but inexpensive repair (I’m sure a tech would get $900-1000).

Replace the water valve according to the youtube video from this site. It was really easy!

followed partselect video instructions. Easy but takes time. Thank you

I won't bother repeating other people's comments. My repair took a bit over 2 hours. I watched 2 different videos and thought the repair was doable. To remove the first wire band holding the boot seal to the front panel I found using an awl to grab the eyelet near the spring was easier than using a needle nose recommended in the video. To remove the second wire band I used an offset screwdriver. One video I watched recommended removing the lower counterweight to get at the band's screw - I did not do that. Putting the new boot seal into the first groove and installing the wire band was the most time consuming part of the job. I did not have extra hands to help. I recommend the second pair of hands for that part to save time. The rest of the install was easy.

The repair video was almost perfect. I would not have even attempted the repair without the video as I am not a handyman at all. The diagnostic feature based on the symptoms was invaluable. I originally took the front of the washer off because I thought the rubber seal around the door was leaking.It was like 67% of the problem. But after checking the front seal carefully, I determined it wasn't. The next most likely issue as only rated 19% but when the water inlet pipe, I was actually tickled to see a crack in the plastic pipe. I ordered on line on Monday and with the cheapest shipping, I received my part in the mail on Thursday. I would highly recommend using Part Select for diagnostic, parts and repair. I will definitely use again. If I could make one recommendation to Part Select, it would be to do a close up during the video when the technician is working with a part, i.e., the wiring that goes around the rubber seal.

Did not have to use the new pump filter. The old one finally worked. I probably didn’t screw it in tight enough.

Watch the video posted on PartSelect. It was excellent and walked step by step through the whole repair.

I only ran into one issue not included in the video. In order to remove the inner ring holding the boot seal, I had to remove the weight at the bottom of the tub. This is easy to remove with a wrench, but took two people to reinstall. You only need the second person for 1-2 minutes to hold the weight while you align the bolts.

The most difficult part is ensuring you replace the hex nuts and screws in the same location. I took pictures as i removed them to know where to reinstall.

Total repair time was probably 1.5 hours.