GBVH5300K2WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

I had to replace the door gasket because there was a small piece that had torn away, which caused large amounts of water to leak when the load of laundry was too big. Smaller loads of laundry would just produce a little bit of water.
Unsure of how to replace the gasket, I used a phillips screwdriver to pull the door and front panel off. I thought that this would be pretty simple, but I soon discovered that it wasn't as simple as removing several screws and pulling the pieces off. The door was easy, the bottom panel was easy, but the front panel was held in place by screws, plastic tabs, the front of the gasket (I'll explain later), and gravity by means of plastic supports. Trying to find and release the tabs, lifting the panel up and out was not self-explanatory. I finally figured it out, and it made changing the gasket out, a breeze. The gasket is held in by two diferent wire spring clamps/bands. One band holds the gasket to the outside of the tub, and the other band holds the gasket to the front panel. Before removing the front panel you must remove the first band which is cleverly hidden by the face of the rubber gasket. Just peel it back...it's in there. I was able to pull/pry this off with a screwdriver because I was not worried about damaging the old gasket. The second band had to be removed with either a 6mm/7mm wrench(I can't remember which) or a stubby phillips screwdriver. The stubby screwdriver is handy because of the proximity of the tubs counterweights. Once the final band is removed just peel the gasket away from the tub, after taking note of how it came off. Put the fully loosened band on the new gasket and fit the new gasket into place. It helped to have two sets of hands to work it around the tub, but probably not necessary. The wrench is necessary to properly tighten the band, because you cannot get enough torque on the stubby screwdriver.Once the gasket is in place you can re-install the front panel, and secure the front of the gasket to the panel. Install the band and it will secure itself by the tension of the spring. Put the door back on and you are ready to wash clothes.

Ordered new Parts. Removed old/worn parts. Found that the "hammering" from a loose pulley had worn and deformed the edges of the shaft where the flats are to accept new pulley.
Gently filed the flats with the flat surface of the file and filed the hump on the shaft that the "hammering" created. Take extreme caution to not file surfaces too much, because new pulley will be loose and the next step is to replace the drum shaft.($$$$) Pulley did not fit 100% (Had some slop) but that was from material being worn away from "hammering" effect. Torqued with Torque wrench and added green 609 loctite compound - this is meant to help adhere and take up some loose fit in assemblies. - Drawback to Loctite is most have to be heated to 300 to 400 degrees to remove, or pulley will need to be cut off and ruined, I further repair/removal of pulley is necessary. This is an Easy Fix/Replacement of parts.... The hard part is filing the drum shaft surfaces to accept the new pulley, and getting the belt back on - Belt is tight but needs to be stretched on like putting a bike chain back on.

Washer now spins and sounds like a dream!
- Good Luck!

I read and reread all of the installation repairs everyone had sent in. Everyone said on the average it would take 1-2 hours. I partly started the install myself and the ran into a problem. My wife was my helping second hands( second hands is a great help) and she suggested to either google or YouTube the repair. Within minutes I had found one on you tube and it help me tremendously. it had the exact model washer on the video and the install was a breeze. I would recommend looking up the repair cause they show step by step video and makes it a lot easier.

Removed the three screws behind the top panel and slide it back to remove. Removed control panel then the two lower screws on the front panel the spring around the front of the gasket and slid up the front assembly to remove. Door lock was on front panel held by 2 screws and then loosened clamp around back of gasket and the gasket removed easily. The installation was easy nothing special to do and the problem was solved.

I called a repair person to check my 15 months old GE front loader washer that stopped in rinse mode. After his inspection he said it was a deffected computer board and it would be very expensive to replace the 3 computers boards inside and it would be cheaper to buy a new top loader washer. The next day I lifted the top cover and found a taped plastic envelope with instructions titled “For service Technicians Only." On page 2, instruction on to how to enter the washer in to service mode and to test the washer:
Press : Signal, Delay, Signal, Delay (within 30 seconds of plug in washer)
Then rotate main knob to #102 and press Start:(the washer did a test for finding the problem) , and for me was : E22 , it means : replace solenoid valve assembly.
So I order the part from Partselect.com for $58.00 and my Washer runs beautiful, thanks to the instructions inside.

I took the outer retainer clamp off and pulled the outer seal off the front of the washer. Then pushed the seal inward to see the rear seal and its wire clamp. Took a philips head screwdriver (short handel) and loosened the clamp. Pulled the clamp out and then the rubber boot. Put new boot on the tub (rear - this took a little while to make sure the seal was correctly in place.) Make sure the boot is lined up with the two hose connections. Intstall wire clamp, this took some time because there is not a whole lot of room to get your hands in there to tighten. Connect the two hoses to the boot and the boot to the front of the washer. Install outer wire clamp. Done.

With a wife that doesn't check pockets before doing laundry, it's important to check the drain filter located under the removable panel below the door of our front loader washer from time to time. It had been a while since I cleared this filter and there had been some standing water and drainage problems with the machine for a time. I believe the standing water and the fact that our machine is located in an un-heated utility room in the house has lead to an excess of mildew buildup on the main gasket of the machine. I believed it too far gone to save. No leaks, just a nasty looking gasket. Anyway, the new gasket had obviously been improved from the original design. The rubber seemed to be thicker in some areas from the original and also included a handle of sorts that looked designed to ease future removals though it didn't help in the installation. The install is moderately difficult given the confined space to work with. Getting the back retainer ring in place and tightened down was very difficult. I would say it took about 45 minutes. I believe the new gasket is a better one than the gasket it replaced. Again it appeared to be bolstered with more material than the old one. This is a good thing considering the paperclips, change, and hair clips I found in the filter. FYI, a short narrow handled Philips head screw driver would have helps quite a bit. Anyhow, it's on and working just fine.

First I unpluged electrical cord. removed the 4 screws
on the back panel. I then loosen the (1) motor bolt that
you can adjust for tightness after you put the new
drive belt on the round pulley. Make sure the bolt in the center of the round pulley is tight. The round pulley should not wabble. Make sure not to over tighten the drive belt on the motor. A slight play is fine. Put back
panel on and plug electrical cord. Run washer cycle
on and check. Should be OK.

Remove bottom kick plate of washer. Remove 4 screws behind door that hold the latch/lock assembly. Reach up inside the washer from underneath to unplug 3 wire connectors. (This is a very tight spot). Once wires are off, part comes right out. Connect wires to the new part - this is by far the most difficult part of the job because it is way up inside the washer. Replace all bolts.
Overall, pretty easy to do - just reconnecting the wires is a pain, but if you are patient it is not a big deal.

I removed the front ring around door boot seal gasket, then I removed the interior ring whit a small screw driver and then put the new gasket back and the two rings and thats it.

I was able to get the 1st metal ring After trying everything to get the 2nd ring off I ended up calling a repairman. It was just too hard for me get my hand into the area to loosen the ring. It took repairman over 1 hr to complete job of installing the boot. After spending o$300, I just just shook my head. Hats off to the other people able to do it.

we took the advice of you tube. my husband said "WONT READ DIRECTIONS BUT WILL WATCH A VIDEO" and he fixed it no problem. it took about 1 1/2 hours per unit.

Two people make the job easier: the smaller on his back doing the work, while the other positions lights and provides tools. Remove bottom panel. Loosen and slide the two small spring clips back from fittings. Locate (out of sight in the back) and loosen the screw-type tensioner on large, upper clamp. Remove old hose and position clamps on new hose. Seat all hose fittings securely and reposition spring clamps. A bit of soapy water for lubrication can help. Tighten down screw tensioner on large clamp. Test by pouring bucket of water into washer.

It. Was awasome the part fit great and it was even deliverd sooner than expected thank you

I followed the steps in the You Tube video on this topic. Search for "washing machine repair - replacing the drive pulley" in your favorite search engine. The video is very well done and it is a simple fix. Before I put on the new drive pulley and nut, I vacuumed up and then wiped down the black dust around the drive pulley shaft (as well as on the inside floor of the washer) to make sure the drive pulley slid onto the shaft using the hand banging method described in the video (dust was likely from the belt due to the excessive movement of the drive pulley). While it may be possible to tighten the nut without a torque wrench, I personally had trouble judging the appropriate 44 ft lbs of torque without it (i.e. my snug required more than a quarter turn per the optional instructions). The torque wrench provided me with the assurance that I installed the drive pulley correctly.Two of my shocks were leaking slightly so I assumed that was the primary issue and replaced all 4 at quite a hefty cost. It helped with the noise but not significantly. If you do have a loud noise during the spin cycle, do yourself a favor and check the play in the drive pulley and look for the black dust before you diagnose the problem to be something else. The online diagnostic tool showed the drive pulley as being the highest probability of being the issue so, sadly, I have no excuses...