GCVH6260H0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Took it apart per the video and reinstalled

followed partselect video instructions. Easy but takes time. Thank you

I won't bother repeating other people's comments. My repair took a bit over 2 hours. I watched 2 different videos and thought the repair was doable. To remove the first wire band holding the boot seal to the front panel I found using an awl to grab the eyelet near the spring was easier than using a needle nose recommended in the video. To remove the second wire band I used an offset screwdriver. One video I watched recommended removing the lower counterweight to get at the band's screw - I did not do that. Putting the new boot seal into the first groove and installing the wire band was the most time consuming part of the job. I did not have extra hands to help. I recommend the second pair of hands for that part to save time. The rest of the install was easy.

The repair video was almost perfect. I would not have even attempted the repair without the video as I am not a handyman at all. The diagnostic feature based on the symptoms was invaluable. I originally took the front of the washer off because I thought the rubber seal around the door was leaking.It was like 67% of the problem. But after checking the front seal carefully, I determined it wasn't. The next most likely issue as only rated 19% but when the water inlet pipe, I was actually tickled to see a crack in the plastic pipe. I ordered on line on Monday and with the cheapest shipping, I received my part in the mail on Thursday. I would highly recommend using Part Select for diagnostic, parts and repair. I will definitely use again. If I could make one recommendation to Part Select, it would be to do a close up during the video when the technician is working with a part, i.e., the wiring that goes around the rubber seal.

Watch the video posted on PartSelect. It was excellent and walked step by step through the whole repair.

I only ran into one issue not included in the video. In order to remove the inner ring holding the boot seal, I had to remove the weight at the bottom of the tub. This is easy to remove with a wrench, but took two people to reinstall. You only need the second person for 1-2 minutes to hold the weight while you align the bolts.

The most difficult part is ensuring you replace the hex nuts and screws in the same location. I took pictures as i removed them to know where to reinstall.

Total repair time was probably 1.5 hours.

My part came in and my husband was at work so..... I did not want to wait for him to come home to wash my clothes! I installed the motor myself and I was not even the one that took it off! It was so easy to do! Turned the washer on and bingo it was back and going! So glad I can get the parts myself and avoid the middle man and his bill!!! Hook up the drain hose with pliers and screw the motor to the frame and that's it!

Before disassembling anything be really sure that the little things are reassembled just as they were prior to removal.....

Let me begin by saying I'm a woman & don't really think of myself as handy but will try a repair. So at first look we thought we'd have to hire a repairman, but after looking at your website & reading the reviews I realized I could fix it myself (or atleast try). I wouldn't recommend doing this repair yourself without watching the YouTube video showing step by step instructions. It was involved - had to take entire front & top off of washer but overall was an somewhat easy fix. The hardest part to me was getting the 2nd band off of the boot seal primarily due to it's location, so when I put band back on I tried to adjust the angle should I have any other problems. Repair took about 1 1/2 hours but wouldn't have taken as long if I didn't have to fight with nut & bolt on the 2nd band.

Remove the bottom panel. Remove the top. Remove the front panel with the door. Romove the two clamps on the boot seal. Remove the old boot seal. Place the new boot seal on the casing around the drum and ensure you put the gasket nozzle and gasket nozzle washer in place. Install the inside gasket clamp with the clamp bolt to the right as you look at it (Note: ensure the nut is over the tab on the boot gasket and stays lined up there as you tighten it. Replace the front panel of the washer and when it is in place put the boot seal on the outside lip (Note: this is the most difficult part as the gaskets does not like to stay in place as you put the outside clamp on. Replace the washer top. Replace the lower panel (Note: while you have the bottom panel off, you may want to clean the debrie trap which is a white pipe and tray that catches stuff that is left in pockets.) For the entire project I used 7mm and 8 mm sockets, flathead screw driver, and a philips head screw drive.

Followed your instruction, very easy. I installed Camco 90" & 45" Brass elbows to relieve strain on hoses.

I watched the video and followed the instructions. First remove power. Remove the rear cover from the control panel and the top cover. Then remove screws that secure the control panel to the frame and remove the control panel. Remove the bottom cover. Then remove the lock ring that holds the rubber boot to the front panel. Remove the door and remove the water inlet pipe. Assemble the machine and run a test cycle.

After I disconnected the power and water and turned the washer around. I removed the back panel cover and the top and back panel to get to the pulley wheel. Once I remove the retaining nut and pulley the wheel off the spindle, i compared the new and the old parts and noticed the obvious wear on the old part, luckily the spindle was not damaged and still functional. Placing the new pulley wheel was a little more challenging. Once I seated the pulley wheel with a gentle tap from a rubber mallet. I fitted the lock nut onto the spindle and continued seating the wheel evenly using the nut to the prescribed torque pressure. After I reassembled the washer and reconnected the water and power, tested the washer, and success!

Unplug the machine. Remove the 4 screws on the back panel of the washer. Loosen the tub pulley bolt. Remove the old belt (mine did not completely break, it was shredded and slipped off the pulley). Replace with the new belt. Tighten the pulley bolt. Put the back panel on. Plug in the washer. It is working like new. :)

VERY simple, just took two philips screws off of the door, replaced the broken part, put the screws back in! LOL

Sandblasted spider to thoroughly clean it and increase ductility.We used aluminum foil covered in 5200 on one side to cover holes eaten through spider. Then glued the spider to the drum and filled inside rim of spider with a nice layer of 5200. If the spider was made of stainless steel, the washer would still be running great. Thanks