C978-97222210 General Electric Washer - Instructions

Pulled the drum an found spade clip burned on wire. Hi limit Thermostat crumbled/ broke while pulling spade clip so I trimmed back the wire, cleaned the spade clip and soldered the wire back on. Isolated the other thermostats in the system and tested for resistance. Reassembled dryer.

Unplug the dryer. Remove top panel (remove two screws on the upper inside edge of the dryer door). Lift the front panel from front (tabs and slots at the back) and lift off. Remove the front panel (remove a screw from each side - top/front). Front panel sits on two feet at the bottom, tilt it forward from the top and lift it up (careful not to damage the electrical connection at the bottom left side). I found the dryer had another damaged part (plastic guide that the Slide WH and the Drum Slides connected to was badly worn). After ordering the additional part I attached the slides (white and gray) to the guide. Set the front panel back on the two feet and tilt it back into place (you'll need to slightly raise the drum back into position - easy). Replace the two screws that connect the front panel. Replace the top cover. The whole repair took less than 1/2 an hour including the time it took to vacuum out the dust. Total cost, about $35!

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

Removed 2 screws to remove top. Removed 2 other screws to remove front. Removed old parts. Installed new parts. Reassemble all afetr cleaning duct work out.

The dryer was very noisy when it would start. The drum had warn the pads out and the drum was riding on the drum bearing. It really isn't a bearing more of a big piece of plastic. On the bearing are 4 slides (2 white and 2 green). These are easy to replace if the bearing is good. I let mine go too long and wore part of the bearing off. To fix: UNPLUG! Open the door and find 2 screws facing upward screwed into the top. Remove these 2 screws and remove the top. Take notice of how it comes out of the dash. On each side of the front panel (from inside) there is a smaller screw with a bigger head, remove both of these. You can now lift the front panel away from the drum and pull the front panel right out. It would be a good time to take a shop vac and clean all the lint out of this. Mine was almost full. If you are changing the bearing it is held in place with clips built on the bearing. Remove and replace. Put on the new slides as well. There is a little tab on the bearing and a hole in the slide. put the hole over the tab. The green ones I put on the top and the whites on the outter sides. Put the bottom of the panel in first and line up the drum on the new bearing, replace the 2 big headed screws, line up the top in the dash and lower into position, replace the 2 screws up inside the door and you are done. I have no dryer experience and would rate this job on a scale of 1-10 to about a 3 or a 4. There were no real suprizes.

Took off control panel,top,leftside facing door,and,door panel. Replace the 2 green and 2 white slides, the front drum bearing, the rear bearing and groundind strap behind the heating element,and new belt. Put back together,run's and sounds like new. The hardest part was putting drum bearing in inside and backside of drum by yourself. Replace belt with left side panel off. Easy to get on that way.

I ordered and replaced the front and rear bearings, including the slides that go on the front bearing. Most of this was un-necessary; replacing the slides would have been sufficient, and much easier to do. Two of the old slides were worn completely away.

Removed top cover by removing 2 screws in front door opening. Then removed front door removing 2 screws, one on each inner side of the front door.
Removed 2 screws on side doors located about 9 inches from bottom of dryer to permit taking off drum. Slip off belt and remove drum.
Thinking I had a bad bearing, I decided to turn the dryer on and found out I had a bad motor-still functional but noisy. I had difficulty installing the new belt since there was not access panel (which was mentioned in the service manual), so I decided to take off the left side panel-about 8 screws. With the left side panel off, it was a lot easier to install a new belt and install the new front bearings. I actually did not fix the noise, since I need to replace the motor ($$$). When it goes really bad, I can order it then, and it should not take me long to replace it.

When I first ordered the part, I did not know I needed 4 slides for the bearing. 2 of my slides had disintegrated. Make sure you have 2 good white slides, and 2 good blue slides, or order them with the bearing, or you will pay another $7.50 for shipping.
Once I got all of the parts and put it together using only common sense, I found it was binding tight. So I realigned the back of the drum that I had messed up while I was trying to diagnose the problem.
Parts Select definitely helped with diagnosis, through this comment section.
Thanks!

Took off the top and front of the dryer---really easy, just two screws for each. Put new drum slides (4) on the front/sides of the drum. Then things got a little bit more difficult. Removed the drum entirely, vaccuumed everything out and had to replace the rear bearings. My husband did this part so I can't tell you exactly how he did it. Not too difficult though. The written directions from here were hard to read---need to make a new copy from the original as it's so copied that it's all smudged. Anyway, once we got the new bearings on, we put everything back together. Dryer works like a charm, at a fraction of the cost it would have been to get someone out to do it. Thanks a bunch for the fast service!

This was really easy to me.
1. I removed the 2 screws holing the top on.
2. Carefully lifted and removed the top cover of the dryer.
3. Removed the two screws holding the front of the dryer.
4. Pulled the front of the dryer back being careful not to separate the wiring and set it up against the wall.
5. Removed the old bearing (which was totally destroyed).
6. Cleaned up all the old lint and build up off everything.
7. Attached the new bearing after installing the slides.
8. Resembled the part by reversing the above process.
9. NO more screeching, works perfectly.

This cost me a total of $50.00, (I used next day delivery)was completed in 3 days. If I had called my home assurance company it would have cost me $55.00 plus they would have come out, viewed the problem, orders the parts and 10 days later I would have had it fixed. What a waste of my time!

1. remove top
2. remove front panel
3. remove/replace drum bearing
4. replace panels
5. enjoy cold beer

save yourself money working on your own appliances. appliance repairs often times don't require special tools, are very easy to diagnose and repair.

First I unplugged the dryer. Then opened the door, removed both screws on top in opening. Then pulled up the top of the dryer and removed two screws, one on each side of dryer and pulled the front off the dryer.
I removed the door light from drum bearing housing and pulled off the old drum bearing. I took the new drum bearing, installed the 4 new drum slides onto the drum bearing housing. 2 front dryer drum slides and 2 drum slides. Then snapped it into place and reinstalled the door light. I then vaccumed out the dryer, re-installed the front of the dryer and secured it with one screw on each side, pushed the top back down and screwed in the two screws in the top of the door opening. Job completed, it was fast and the squeek is gone.

First I got the front bearing, found out I needed the slides too. It was binding at first, so I undid an earlier misadjustment I made (on the back drum mount). and it works!

Your instructions were execellent
Problem is solve
Thank you