52150119 General Electric Washer - Instructions

Took agitator out of machine knocked old coupling out and inserted new one into agitator/washing machine. Part arrived promptl and correctly. Thank you. JD

I removed 2 screws on the top control panel to tilt the panel back. Then "popped" the hinges. I then removed 2 screws on the rear panel, to "pick up" the panel out of its locking position. Then the rear panel was loose. I removed the 2 srews holding the water inlet valve to the panel, removed the hose and placed the new water inlet valve in position. Assembled everything back to gether. After a $16.00 part was replaced, the washing machine worked like a brand new one with very high water flow. It was a very simple task to do on your own.

I disconnected two wires on back of inlet valve,then I removed the plastic hose connected to left side of valve. Removed old valve and replaced it with the new one.Attached hot/cold hoses and turned on washing machine to check for leaks.

My appliance repair man replaced the inlet hoses into the washing machine and in doing so damaged the threads on the hot water inlet which resulted in a seriuous leak. I removed the 4 screws that held the damaged water inet valve (#PS270305)in place (inlet valcve and solenoid), removed the 4 wires to the solenid (noting the order in which they wree attached) and simply reattached the electrical wiring and screwed the inlet valve in place with the 4 screws that I had taken off to remove the old part.

Took the back cover off 6 screws, took the inlet valve off the mounting plate 2 screws, the vater valve off the mounting plate 2 screws, and disconnected the inlet valve clamp from the inlet hose to the washer. In reassembling reversed the process. Best part; G.E. was going to charge me $59.00 for the valve, and I got it for $16.10 shipped in one day.

repair was quick and part came quickly. I was very satisfied.

I changed the Water Inlet Valve in less than 15 minutes. The valve fit exactly, and the water hoses fit right on. I turned on the water and the washer filled without hesitation. The cost was 15.00, this beat the 62.00 price I was given by GE for the part alone.

Pulled off the handle with the kneedle nose pliers replaced the plastic piece in that, then pulled off the plate that turns the machine on and just snapped the new one on. Only took seconds and saved alot of money. Considering just to have a repair man come to see what was wrong would have cost me $88.00.

I emptied the washer and unplugged it from the wall. Then i pulled it out so I could get behind it. Next unscrewed the water hoses from the washer. Removed the plate holding the water inlet valve by unscrewing 2 screws holding it to the machine (I used Vise Grip/pliers). Note which side of plate goes up/outward so you can put it back on! Removed 2 more screws that hold the valve to the plate. Remove clamp from valve end to disconnect valve from tubing with a screwdriver. I was able to remove the tubing with a twisting motion even though my washer is way over 10 years old. Remove 4 electrical clips from the valve by pulling them out, (REMEMBER the order of the electrical wires!!). Install new valve by doing this in reverse. Then run test cycle, success and saved hundreds of dollars!

turn off water outlets, unplugged unit then removed water hoses, then removed the screws from the plate on the washer then removed the valve from the plate then unscrewed the clamp for the water inlet to the washer then removed the hose. then carefully removed the wire clips putting each one on the same connector on the new valve, then put everything back like I did when I took it apart and it works great.

This is the second time I have replaced this part. This time, I knew exactly what to do...the first time took longer. We have hard water here and also sediment in the water. Over time, the valve will not shut off the water.

Shutting off the water and unplugging the machine, and opening the back of the washer (every screw was the same size, thankfully. I didn't have to change socket sized) First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and then I unscrewed the hose clamp and I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires one at a time. I reconnected each one as I disconnected it from the old one. That way I knew I had it attached to the correct post. Reconnected the hose and reclamped it. Then I reattached the unit back into the washer and rescrewed everything back in place. The washers, I put in the end of the hoses before reattaching to the faucets. Attached the hoses to the machine and plugged it in the outlet.
It has been working ever since! (of course, I knew it would!) This machine is 25 years old and still going strong!

I had to tilt the machine to gain access to the screw that holds the yoke bracket in place. Then I removed the one screw that holds the yoke bracket and removed the yoke and it's cushion. I then had to remove the two friction pads from the old yoke and install them on the new yoke. I was able to re-use the old yoke cushion and after re-assembling the yoke and cushion, I installed this assembly with the one screw. Righted the machine and the job was done.

I looked up the part on line, ordered it and installed. Veru easy since the part that needed repair was right out in the open.

Replaced the water control valve (the thing the washer hoses connect to on the back of the washer) There were 3 bolts that had to be removed and once the part was loose, there were four wires attached, I disconnect each wire from the old part and reconnected to the new part at the same time to keep from getting the wires mixed up. Then I bolted the new part back in place...worked perfect. Total cost of repair was less than 30 bucks...

simply replaced the old knob with the new one.