GBVH6260F0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

we took the advice of you tube. my husband said "WONT READ DIRECTIONS BUT WILL WATCH A VIDEO" and he fixed it no problem. it took about 1 1/2 hours per unit.

Two people make the job easier: the smaller on his back doing the work, while the other positions lights and provides tools. Remove bottom panel. Loosen and slide the two small spring clips back from fittings. Locate (out of sight in the back) and loosen the screw-type tensioner on large, upper clamp. Remove old hose and position clamps on new hose. Seat all hose fittings securely and reposition spring clamps. A bit of soapy water for lubrication can help. Tighten down screw tensioner on large clamp. Test by pouring bucket of water into washer.

It. Was awasome the part fit great and it was even deliverd sooner than expected thank you

I followed the steps in the You Tube video on this topic. Search for "washing machine repair - replacing the drive pulley" in your favorite search engine. The video is very well done and it is a simple fix. Before I put on the new drive pulley and nut, I vacuumed up and then wiped down the black dust around the drive pulley shaft (as well as on the inside floor of the washer) to make sure the drive pulley slid onto the shaft using the hand banging method described in the video (dust was likely from the belt due to the excessive movement of the drive pulley). While it may be possible to tighten the nut without a torque wrench, I personally had trouble judging the appropriate 44 ft lbs of torque without it (i.e. my snug required more than a quarter turn per the optional instructions). The torque wrench provided me with the assurance that I installed the drive pulley correctly.Two of my shocks were leaking slightly so I assumed that was the primary issue and replaced all 4 at quite a hefty cost. It helped with the noise but not significantly. If you do have a loud noise during the spin cycle, do yourself a favor and check the play in the drive pulley and look for the black dust before you diagnose the problem to be something else. The online diagnostic tool showed the drive pulley as being the highest probability of being the issue so, sadly, I have no excuses...

If the washer basket "crashes" or thumps while rotating, the spider must be replaced. I have found that, although difficult, the spider mounting bolts can be removed without sheering if starting to unscrew until it jams then hit the bolt once with a hammer and try again to unscrew. It will give just a little and keep repeating the process until the bolt is completely out. I have tried heating with a torch, chisel tapping and re-tapping the threads after drilling out the bolt but the method I described is the most successful. After removal I bring the spider to a local powder coating person for a permanent coating of preservation. This site provides the least expensive new spiders or spider basket assemblies available. E-Bay provides used items also.

Disassembled washer to get access to power board, removed both power and start/pause switches and replaced them with new ones. Reassembled washer. Works well. The most difficult part of appliance
maintenance is learning how to disassemble the machine. Videos of the process are very helpful.

followed video on website

Disassembled the washer from the top down more or less. Started with top cover, then control panel then door assembly. After that removed all connections to drum. Removed belt, pulley, and then counterweights. Wires are all on harness with plugs, I took pics as I went for reference as to where they belong. The motor was left plugged in and slides out of the mount at the bottom of the tub after removing one bolt. To remove the door latch assembly, remove the front tub seal first then you can easily access it after you unscrew it. The shocks are a quarter turn release type mechanism. I broke two going back together after trying to lock them into place. Not sure why, maybe age of part had something to do with it, and they are hard to turn as well.

Followed the directions from this site shown on you tube.

Flipped washer on side
Did repair from bottom
Really easy repair

I watched the video and followed the advice given. It was very easy fix to the annoying problem of the banging wash tub during the spin cycle. The part worked perfectly so far so good.

We ultimately rebuilt this washer because I love it so and it was one-half cheaper to rebuild than to buy new! We watched videos and researched the repair and then dove in. Yes, we had to tear the machine down but really it was not that bad of an ordeal. It ended up being much easier than we initially thought but once all the parts arrived we fixed it!

Unplug machine.
Remove band from front bellows by prying the spring at 6:00 o:clock loose.
Pull back bellows on right side.
Remove 3 torx screws and gently pull door each lock assembly out. Unplug 3 wire harness connectors and plug into new latch lock in same order.
Screw new latch lock in place and replace bellows and band.
Done

followed partselect video instructions. Easy but takes time. Thank you

I won't bother repeating other people's comments. My repair took a bit over 2 hours. I watched 2 different videos and thought the repair was doable. To remove the first wire band holding the boot seal to the front panel I found using an awl to grab the eyelet near the spring was easier than using a needle nose recommended in the video. To remove the second wire band I used an offset screwdriver. One video I watched recommended removing the lower counterweight to get at the band's screw - I did not do that. Putting the new boot seal into the first groove and installing the wire band was the most time consuming part of the job. I did not have extra hands to help. I recommend the second pair of hands for that part to save time. The rest of the install was easy.