52750 (MLC275CW1) General Electric Washer - Instructions

I followed the directions I found on my tablet on youtube.

Follow the instructions from YOUTUBE to replace the new drive belt..

Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!

Replaced it as one would. I took off the front facing and replaced the belt. It took a bit of searching to find the proper way to route the belt around the pulley.

It took a while since it was my first time and I wasn't sure what to take apart and what to leave intact.

If I were to do it again, it would take 30 minutes or less.

I watched the video you had. Did what the man said, checked out the parts, and orded the new ones. Then installed , as per video. It was Fun.

popped in one in

After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.

I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.

I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.

The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.

The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.

Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.

Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves.

Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.

I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!

part was fast easy to put on know work better then before

i took the hose of and stuck the water hose in it and saw a lin hole leak. i order a new hose and recived it very fast (1 day) took 15 min to put it on the pump and to put the machine back togther

Drain hose should come with the two clips (45B)that hold the drain hose to the back of the machine. I had to cut the old hose off. Then very carefully remove the clips from the inside of the machine with a pair of pliers.

took of the front cover. then i took off the plastic cover on top of the water pump. then i unbolted the water pump and disconnected the hoses. i had to rotate the water pump connections. i swap the base of the pump and then bolted it back in place connected the water hoses back and then put the plastic cover back on. and to finish i put the front cover back and i was done.

Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.

I had replaced the pump 5 years earlier and now it was leaking again. When I removed the old pump, I discovered a bobby pin had made its way into the pump and was chewing up the housing, causing a small hole. This was a very simple repair as the pump sits right in the bottom front of the machine. The most difficult part was removing the old hoses and re-attaching them to the new pump. Four bolts/screws and two electrical connectors, which cannot be confused, made this an easy fix.

At first I thought the o-ring may have wear out so I took the pump out to check, but the leak was either from the shaft seal or body itself (hard to tell as body had corrosion on it) taken out the pump was very easy, but you need to use the right pliers to easily remove the spring clamps. Follow instruction to set the housing orientation, and than install back the pump. Reinstalling one of he hoses using the spring clamps took few tries, but it was in place in no time. remember not to install the cover before you operate the washer to verify no leaks. This work is realy very very easy.

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.