52750 (MLC275CW1) General Electric Washer - Instructions

I removed the top cover and the back cover to install new belt.
Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair

had a great video to follow, made it easy to install.

First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine

good replacement procedure on you tube.

remove one hose clamp.pulled hose from back of washer.replaced with new hose in same procedure.best of all i had my new hose in two days.great serviceand inventory.

Disconnected power, removed hoses, removed housing and pump. Re oriented drain pipes on pump to align with washer hoses (just twist collar and re set) attach foot bracket and secure to washer bottom. Attaching the hoses with the compression clamps was a bit of a problem until I used pliers to press the ends together and then an adjustable wrench to hold them tight. Slid on hoses and released clamps. Replaced electrical and secured pump cover. Done in about 15 minutes.

Loosened top of washer from spring tabs and leaned it against wall, removed two phillip head screws from the front bottom panel, removed panel. Removed spring clamps from 2 hoses( make sure water is drained from tub before doing this!!) on pump, removed 2 wire connectors. Used nutdriver to remove 2 screws that held down pump. Replaced pump and everything else installs in reverse. Almost forgot, the plate that holds the pump to the bottom of the washing machine has to be removed from the old pump and attached to the new one.

the repair was completed with a new lint filter. easy in, the old one tossed out.....perfect/ i'm amazing!

the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.

ordered the new pump,its a lot more heavy duty than the orginal.had to change the mounting bracket somewhat. the new pump mounted bythe bottom of the pump housing and theold pump mounted by the side of the pump housing. so, wnere the curve was in the mount, I used the bench grinder to cut the curve out to make a flat surface for the new pump to rest in ,also drilled two 1/4 inch holes in the mount for the bolts to mount the pump.

I followed the directions I found on my tablet on youtube.

I watched the video you had. Did what the man said, checked out the parts, and orded the new ones. Then installed , as per video. It was Fun.

Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!

Replaced it as one would. I took off the front facing and replaced the belt. It took a bit of searching to find the proper way to route the belt around the pulley.

It took a while since it was my first time and I wasn't sure what to take apart and what to leave intact.

If I were to do it again, it would take 30 minutes or less.

After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.

I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.

I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.

The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.

The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.

Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.

Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves.

Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.

I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!