GWSE5190E6WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

The repair went just like the video! Easier than I would've hoped.

1. take the machine apart, since the noise comes when the barrel is spining, I just watch for anything that contact to the axel.
2. without special tools, it was difficult to take off agigator, and a nut (that tighthened lefthanded).
3. Once defect part found, seach online for the part supply to replace.

The repair would have gone well, however partselect sent me the wrong part. Instead of a washer belt, they sent me a door seal to what looks like a refrigerator

The worst part of the repair was removing the old hub nut. Don't bother messing with the spanner wrench, unless the washing machine has never been used. Split the nut off with a SHARP cold chisel and a heavy hammer. Be very careful not to damage the threads, because not even GE can or will tell you the die size to re-dress the threads if you damage them. Check drain pump motor to remove debris before using washer. Parts were delivered in a quick and efficient manner.

Popped the lid and activated the lid switch. Agitator danced around but the tub not moving. Agitator was un-snapped so no issue getting it out. Forgot to shut the timer down. By the time I came back with container's for wet laundry the pump emptied the water. Found this web site for parts and liked what I saw on the help. The video was a nice overview but can forget about trying to save the hub nut. The trans shaft has 4 flats on it and years of crud gets drawn into the threads sealing it like it was epoxied in with rust. This one is a 13yr old.
Spent most time reading the help stories and gathering up tools. My concern was getting the bad parts out and that hub nut without more damage. Finally found a 1924 vintage 9" monkey wrench I forgot I had and it fit just fine for putting it back together. I put a 1/8" bit in the drill and put a hole in center of nut next to the flats about 1/8" down by 3 of the flats. Wacked the nut in 2 locations with the chisel in the unwind direction with the corner of the chisel in the hole to put a grove on the nut so to keep away from damaging trans shaft. It finally came off in 3 pieces.
After pulling the basket stuck a rag in the drain hole. The basket sounds like it has water in it but its the counter weight attached on top. Brushed up the crud on trans shaft and sponged out the remaining water and other particles.
Next was a pump inspection. If you take the input line off you can see the impeller to remove any stuff that may damage it. Have to un-bolt the pump be careful on the wiring to pump trying to unplug the wires may damage the connectors or even worse the pump. I mostly had crud in the water on the line.
Ordered the needed parts, and cleaned up the tub, reinstalled the pump. After the parts arrived took about a 1/2 hour to put it in service again. Don't forget to wack the hub nut on tight when installing so it wont come off in use.
Many thanks to all in sharing their story it helped me out to see what to expect.

First buy the tub nut wrench. I can't over emphasize that! $12 at amazon. With out it getting the inner tub out will be the worst part of the job. And you will have to buy a new nut. I had trouble getting the old bearing out of the outer tub. I had to drive it out with a punch. The only other problem I had was after getting everything back together the new tub seal leaked. When I installed it if fit very loose on the OD. I ordered a new seal hoping it would fit tighter but it didn't so I coated the the seat of the tub and the OD of the seal with gasket shellac. That solved the problem. Working great.

The Hub nut was very corroded and seized, and would not break loose using several types of wrenches & lubricants. The shaft is square with threads only on the corners, I used an electric drill to crack the hub nut on the straight sides of the shaft where there are no threads. All parts are GE and exact replacements, The noise is much less, but still a very small water leak. Should work for awhile , but a new washer is in the near future. Parts are good with quality service and shipment.

Followed the instructions from internet videos and diagrams provided by GE behind the electric panel. The hub nut and remnants of the broken hub had to be ground off. As with the other repairers, the grinding presented some difficulty. Particular care must be taken not to grind into the shaft or other parts on it. Not having much experience in fixing appliances, it came as a surprise that the washer functioned normally after the job was completed. The effort took an afternoon and spilled into the evening.

I had to take out the front panel to access the Tub. Afterward the work wasn't hard.

The picture of how to depress the clips to remove the front was incorrect. The clips are 4" from the sides not immediately at the sides per the picture. The 4 rubber springs were only part of what was needed for the washer. The old gas dryer was still working. There are two more springs on the bottom of the tub missing not shown on diagrams, so it still sways side to side, bangs around and makes a lot of noise. After putting on the 4 rubber springs, it ran, but probably needed a new clutch also, because it wouldn't spin dry anymore. I ended up spending $2000 for new washer and dryer from Maytag, and throwing out these old machines today.

Remove top of washer, 2 screws,support washer tub use wood block,s to support washer tub, remove old support rod replace with new, that's it, replace top, done. Thank You

Well first I had to remove the control panel and that was nice because there was a diagram of the washer in there. So after that I just removed the top, front panel of the washer and top of the drum. Since the hub was broken all around I was able to remove the drum without removing the big nut or the part of the hub that was still attached to the shaft.
This gave me a little more room to remove the nut and hub. The nut was difficult and tight. I struggled with it for some time and got nowhere. I then realized that the nut was aluminum and so I just heated it up a bit and it came off with little effort. I had to heat up the remaining part of the hub also to get it off.
It doesn’t take much heat to get these parts moving. I used a small torch but a heat gun would be better. Also I painted the new hub to try to slow down the corrosion effect water has on the pot metal. I just used some rattle can engine paint I had.
I then cleaned all the parts and put it all back together and all is good.

This was one easy job and saved me money by doing it myself, First I unplugged the washer for safety, then I removed the Agitator by grabbing the base of the agitator with both hands and pulling up I set the agitator a side and removed the one bolt holding the agitator coupling in place. the replacement coupling was a little tight when I replaced it due to it being new, (make sure the coupling is fully seated before installing the bolt) reinstalled the agitator plugged the washer back in and tested repair worked flawlessly thanks partselect

The tub base hub developed a large crack and spin started to make a large vibration. Agitator coupling was frozen, so I broke it by dremel, wedge (a minus driver) and a hammer. The hub nut was also frozen, so I cut two slits into the nut with dremel, then broke it into two with a wedge and a hammer. Once the hub nut was removed installing new parts was straightforward. Half year ago I replaced the timer and capacitor of this washer and together with this repair the total repair cost has now run up to $300. I think I should have bought a new washer half year ago but now that the repair has been done, I hope it will keep working for at least another 5 years. Otherwise I can't justify the $300 cost.

Ordered new pump on Sunday - replaced on Wednesday. Removed front washer panel with putty knife to release latches. Used pliers to disconnect hose clamps. Lots of paper towels to sop up water in bottom of washer and on floor. Unhooked electrical wires. Socket to remove pump. Reverse actions to replace pump. It's "plug and play"!