GDSR4110T5WB General Electric Washer - Instructions

I loosened the four nuts holding the motor in place, slid the motor toward the tub to slacken the belt enoug to remove it, then replaced old belt with new belt, pulled motor back in place until belt was tight, then tightened the four nuts holding th emotor in place.

Used the repair instruction paper behind the washer control panel and used the online parts diagram. Also the online responces from other customer repairs gave me the idea to take a small pipe wrench (with a sock over the bottom of handle) and tap it with a 10 lb sledge hammer to remove the alumium hub nut. *** It is a backwards threaded nut **** I did not know I was going the wrong way until I looked at the new nut and noticed it's reverse threaded!!! After that it was just taking everything apart and putting it back the way you found it.

I followed the instructions provided by GE that were stored in the control section of the washer. Removing the hub nut was a huge pain. It took Liquid wrench, hammer, pipe wrench and patience to remove it. Other than that it was fairly easy. I didn't like the way the tub seal fit so I used some silicon gasket making material to help make sure the seal sealed good against the tub.

Based on other research, the location of the leak indicated that the main tub seal needed to be replaced. I took the washer apart before ordering new parts in case I broke other parts in the process and to be sure I could. I ended up having to cut off the Agitator Coupling and really marred up the hub nut. Those were the hardest 2 pieces to remove since they had corroded badly after many years of use. I had to use a pipe wrench and a hammer to remove the hub nut and a hack saw to get the agitator coupling off (air bell).
$68.00 and 2 hours later, the washer no longer leaks.

went very well thank you

Finding the disassembly instructions in the control panel was very useful. After disassembly and inspection obviously the transmission had lost oil and deteriorate the belt and actually threw it off. Finding your web site was very helpful. The exploded views parts catalog were great! We had it rush shipped. It was great to speak with a representative on a sunday was excellent. The rep was knowledgeable and we concurred on which part were needed. Tracking number was correct via e-mail but only rec'd tracking number for one of the two packages which was stressful at the fedex office at pick-up. All items were rec'd on time assembly was straight forward. The basin retainer nut came loose after 5 loads and made a terrible noise. I applied blue loctite to nut and reinstalled. Seems to be working correctly. Bought an extended warranty which added 4 yrs. Washer failed 2 months after warr. Expired. Figures!! Great experience with partselect thank you.

first use a puddy knife to remove the front cover – slide the puddy knife in the front upper left than right corners where the top meets the front of your washer they are push in clips that hold the front cover (they are not easy to damage)
second pull the front out than up of the bottom clips, there is the rods with a tube assembly is either black or yellow that hold the tub up
remove the 2 screws holding the top they are near the clips you used the puddy knife on
lift the lid about 4 inches and you will see how it works, at that point with the replacement part in hand it is self obvious what to do replace the rod.
When done try the washer and if it works, if so put the covers back on.
The shock of it all is watching the natural violence your machine goes through just to wash your clothes

I replaced the pressure switch which I ordered from A-1. It still did not work. I then took a small rigid wire and inserted it into the pressure box on the side of the tub. Then I squirted water thru the tube to clean out the hole where the tube from the pressure switch is hooked up. The washer then worked fine. The pressure switch I replaced was probably OK. This was a learning experiance which cost me $68.00. Still cheaper than a repairman

1) Disconnect power
2)remove front panel
3) remove screws and take hoses off
4) remove & replace water pump
:) YAY. all done

Popped the front off the washer by placing a towel under the screwdriver to prevent chipping the paint. Had to spent almost 45 minutes soaking up water that had leaked from pump. Must have been leaking for some time before enough leaked under washer and became visible, because there was a lot of rust build up. (1).Removed old pump by first un-pluging washer and them removing (2) connecting wires from pump. (3).Next use nut driver to loosen flex hose from washer. (not from pump). Loosen spring clamp from discharge hose , and slide up. (4) Using nut driver I removed (2) hex screws that held pump to frame, then removed pump and motor assembly. (5). Mopped up water with large (old) bath towels (6). Used hair dryer to dry area. (7). Used wire brush to brush away surface rust. then used small shop vacuum to remove this surface rust. (8). Used small brush to paint white rust-olem paint on rusted areas, used hair dryer again to help paint to dry, then gave it a second coat and again helped it dry. (9). I then removed flex hose from old pump assembly, checked it for cracks and finding none I attached it to new pump with existing spring clamp. (10). I then put pump assembly back inside washer, but did not attach with hex screws yet. (11). Re-attached the drain hose by sliding the spring clamp back down, making sure it is around the hose and discharge spout. (12). Reattach the flex hose to washer discharge spout. (13). Screw new pump and motor assembly unto newly painted frame. (14). Re-attach (2) wires to pump and motor assembly. (15). Plug washer back in and try filling it with some water, letting it go into the drain cycle to check for leaks. NOTE: You don't have to go through and entire wash cycle. Just use the dial to put some water in then move it to drain and /or spin to get the new pump and motor assembly going. I did this a couple of times and then did an entire load of clothes to ensure there were no leaks. After I was sure there were no leaks, I simply popped the front panel back on. My part cost a total of $64.00 including shipping, and it took me about 1 hour of my time. I checked with my local GE dealer and his cost would have been $98.00 for the part, and $85.00 for labor for a total of $183.00. I AM VERY HAPPY. Oh bye the way I had my part within 3 days of the order and that was with regular shipping. I will always use Parts Select from now on.

Bought all of the parts to remedy this. It ended up being the top transmission seal/bearing which is not a replaceable part. I could see the shaft moving side to side. But the parts diagrams are not detailed enough to show that when assembled.

She led a good life.

My new side loader is SO MUCH BETTER AND INSANELY EFFICIENT. I highly recommend making the change if you need a transmission..

My husband was unavailable and already overloaded, so I took a screw driver and removed the front cover of the washer. After I discovered where the leak was coming from, I used a screw driver to remove one end of the hose and pliers to remove the other end. I went online, found the part and ordered it. It came in surprisingly fast. My husband put it back in about 5 minutes.

The parts were here in 3 days and the repair went very quickly .Quality item would do business again.

Removed the screws for the control panel and replaced the load switch and valve body in about 20 minutes. Simple fix and it's working perfectly!

replaced Tub dampeners Straps.