GDSR4110T5WB General Electric Washer - Instructions

I replaced the work tub dampening strap because that what everyone recommended to replace for this problem. However the purpose of these straps is to dampen the agitation cycle and they have nothing to with the spin cycle at all. the balance ring assembly had been rubbing on the outer tub so I decided to replace it because of a "balance issue". However the ring is liquid with baffles to counter balance the load as it spins and it still had the liquid inside of it so it was actual not needed. What fixed my issue was I found a bolt laying at the bottom of the washer. This bolt was one of the 4 bolts that hold the outer tub to the metal support. When it feel out the tub was only held in at 3 points not the needed 4. This allowed it to rock a bit in the high speed spin and you thought it was going to fly into a 1000 pieces. I replaced the bolt and other parts since I had paid for them and everything works great now.

I think finding the tools to do the repair took longer than the actual repair!

After unplugging the machine, turning off the water and disconnecting the hoses~ All I had to do was remove the top front panel~ I think that was 3 screws; remove the old part~ 2 screws, disconnecting a hose, and unplugging the 2 connections; put in the new part~ reconnecting the hose, 2 screws, plugging in the two connections; put the front panel back on~ 3 screws; reconnect the hoses, turn the water back on, plug the machine back in then tested it and it worked perfectly!

When the kids got home from school and I told them I fixed it they high fived me and said, "Way to go Mom!"

First I unplugged the washer from the wall and then I removed the front panel with a putty knife. I slid the putty knife in between the front panel and top of the washer to disengage the two clips (see parts diagram on Partselect.com). Then I removed the four nuts holding the motor. I then removed the motor and old belt. I installed the new motor and new belt and tightened the four nuts ensuring proper belt tension. The new motor included a new wiring harness and capacitor. The wiring harness installation instructions were easy to follow. Besure to read the all the instructions first before beginning to cut the old harness. Once the wiring harness was installed, the machined worked just like new. I did not need the Retaining Clip for Clutch since the new motor and clutch kit come as one assembly and there is no longer an actual clutch. The two-speed motor just has a pulley for the belt.

Removed the front cover of the washer by sliding a screw driver to release the clips. Loosened the 4 nuts that held the drivebelt motor pushed the motor back to release the drive belt. Replaced the drive belt, pulled motor until drive belt was snug and tighted the 4 bolts. At the same time, I replaced the 4 tub dampening straps located at the top of the tub and now the unit is just like new.

Took 4 screws off of face plate, exposed valve, unplugged power supply, removed wire harnesses to hot cold valves, removed hot and cold water hoses from back of washing machine, removed two screws holding valve body to washer,put new valve in and reversed procedure. ta da!!!!!!!!!!

Repaired Agitator - required to pull from the bottom pulling on one side a little more then the other. Once you got loose it comes right off. Under neith there is a bolt that holds on agitator coupler. remove the bolt with wrench or socket wrench and then the agaitator coupler. Replace with new agitator coupler ,make sure grooves are aligned when putting on the rotor. Tap the top of the agitator coupler lightly until it is completely seated. Put the bolt on with wrench or socket wrench. Put the agitator back on over the agitator coupler and agin make sure grooves are alighned and push down until it feels it is seated. When done, give it a light pull to make sure it is secure and then you are done.

removed hoses and clamps. removed 2 bolts on pump. put it back together. done 15 min.

Removed washer to garage (after water was pumped out by the washing machines pump). Tipped it over to access bottom of machine and removed about 8-10 nut machine screws. Slipped new clutch on and used old retaining clip (new one was too difficult to get on). Loosened motor mounts on the drive motor and slipped on belt. Positioned the motor to put a good amount of tension on the belt and tightened motor mounts in a star pattern. Works great, even with heavy loads (like jeans). Easy easy.

followed the instruction on the wiring sheet and removal and repair sheet that comes with the wahing machine. They wee very good directions and the only problem that I had wa getting the 1 and 11/16 inch not off the shaft that holds the tub to the transmission, The main problem was that the transmission had leaked all over the break and the tub would spin while hitting the pipe wrench with a claw hammer. Ended up using a 10 lb sledge hammer to hit the pipe wrench and that finally loosened up the nut, but that was the only real problem i had. I say this was easy except for getting off that nut

First removed front washer access panel.
Next: removed top panel torx screws and disconnected lid switch wiring connector
Next: removed washer top/lid
Next: removed inoperative lid switch (two phillips head screws)
Next: installed new lid switch and screws
Next: installed washer top and connected lid switch wire connector
Next: installed control panel and screws
Next: tested installation
Next: installed front washer access panel
Easy repair. FYI, Parts Select had best price and part arrived within two days of ordering! Highly recommend them for your parts.

Thanks to comments already summited to Partselect I was prepareed for the worst. Once I figured out that you remove the agitator assembly with a swift jerk I was able to access the lower portion of the tub. As others have found out the aluminum nut holding the inner tub can not be removed without a hammer and chisel. Once you get past that things go well. What is left is cleaning the components and re-assembling.

First I removed the agitator with a belt. Then I removed the nut with a wrench. The Agitator coupli was smooth on the inside so I knew that was the problem. I got the new part, slid it into place. Tightened the new bolt and replaced the Agitator component with a quick push downwards. Easy!

We couldnt figure out why our clothes werent getting clean until I took the door magnet off and placed it on the sensor so we could watch the washing machine while it was operating with the lid open. The agitator was not moving at all. I put a rope through the fins of the agitator on 2 sides, and using a board for leverage, it popped right off. I used a socket to remove the coupler screw and put on the new parts. Washer works great now. A very easy repair.

I loosened the 4 screws that hold the motor and clutch in place. Removed the motor and clutch and turned upside down. Removed the retaining clip. Pulled the old clutch off (does not come off very easy). Stuck the new clutch on and replaced the retaining clip. Slapped it back into the machine.

First I removed the agitator. The shoulder screw on top of the air bell was almost disintegrated, but after soaking with penetrating oil and a large channel lock pliers I removed the shoulder screw. Next, the air bell required a bearing puller to remove it from the agitator shaft (with force application to the agitator shaft from above). After two days of soaking with penetrating oil, heating with a hot air gun, and countless attempts with a pipe wrench and sledge hammer the 1 11/16 nut was not moving. I drilled down along the flats of the shaft and dug out as much corrosion as I could and filled the cavities with penetrating oil. Next, I drilled down at an angle (so as not to gouge the centering taper of the spinner hub) into the nut in order to relieve some stress - no success. I ended up using a chissel ( blade and flat round ) to break pieces of the nut away which was quite brittle. After removing about 1/8 of the nut's top and tapered portion, it began to turn out with a pipe wrench. Next, the spinner would not lift out off the shaft, so I had to remove the entire tub and transmission assembly (but with the spinner basket attached) as instructed by the paper stored within the control panel. I removed the tub support bracket and motor assembly and the pulley off the transmission (pieces of the brake pad fell out). Using a 2X6 piece of lumber, I fabricated 2 semi circular pieces to fit within the 20 inch diameter of the spinner basket and secured their position with another piece of wood. I attached eye hooks to the wood and with rope,hung the entire assembly over an I beam with the transmission in the 5 gallon bucket and the tub suspended only about an inch above the bucket. I hammered on the agitator shaft until the tub and transmission fell the inch as it separated from the spinner basket. After this, it was just cleaning the areas receiving new parts. I did use a sealant around the new tub seal edges and bottom when assembling. Other than having to tap 1/4- 20 threads in the new transmission brake flange (new part had no threads in the holes) the reassembly went fine. I did have to retighten the new 1 11/16 nut after the first use because the new brake pad really stopped the basket from spinning, but the momentom loosened the nut after 3 loads of wash.