57731H3WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Basically, I just followed the instructions in the video that is posted on this sight. It went off without a hitch. Removed the screws from the control panel, lifted it up and out of the way. Then I used the putty knife to release the clips that hold the front panel in place and then removed the top of the washer. Pretty easy from there to swap out the dampening straps and reassemble the washer. Saved a lot of money doing it myself.

pulled off cup on top of agataor. scrwed off nut. pulled off agatator. flipted up side down. took off agatator bell wich is on the bottom of the agator. sliped on bell. put agatator back on and scrwed on nut. dont reamber the size of the nut.sorry. put cap on and your done.

It was almost a complete tear down. Most difficult part was discivering how to remove the front panel. Slip a putty knife between the top and front covers. push and depress the spring tab on each side. The left hand nut on the hub was difficult. I had to get a neighbor to hold a large pair of pliers while I put a pipe wrench on the nut and hit it with a 2 lb. hammer in order to break it loose. Puting it back together do not forget to reconnect the level sensing hose to the level selector, I did. Machine will not perform without it. You can do it! I did.

Took front panel off the washer and found the pump working but no water drained from the tub. Took the motor off the washer by removing the two 10mm screws and attaching hoses. Decided to take the motor apart and found the propeller shaft has broken off inside the pump. Ordered new motor from Partselect and replaced it. Washer is working fine now.

It was very easy, just one screw to get the belt on, then it was just putting in place and putting it back together took the longest.

I damaged the timer gears trying to figure out the washer control knob. I ordered all necessary parts. It now appears the knob that came on the machine had different gear hobs than the timer. I replaced the timer. The dial then easily slipped on. Then the control knob with the clip attached pushed on to the timer. I had an extra timer knob clip. It was just 93cents so I may need it later. It works better now than it did new.

The cap just removed by tapping a few times with a screw driver and hammer. then pulling upward it came off and I placed the new dispenser on. a couple minutes saved me from running up and down to add softener and it was very inexpensive.Thanks alot PARTS SELECT.

I watched the video, used a needle nosed pliers to pull the clip off the knob and just pushed the new knob and clip on.

Removed the front panel with a stiff putty knife, removed the worn belt. Placed the new belt on the front pully and than the rear pully, turning clockwise. After checking the spin cycle I put the front panel back on and I was done.

Remove four screws which held the front cover of the washer. Dropped the cover down to expose the temp. switch. Turned the switch 1/8 turn counterclockwise which removed the switch from the cover. Pulled of the four pigtail wire leads and then installed the new switch in reverse order. Very easy!!

Went to PartSelect website, troubleshot the problem I was having for the model washer I have. Ordered part, once it arrived, I had it installed and all back together in less than 30 minutes. Washer has been running with no problems since the repair. PartSelect is awesome!

Worse machine ever made. Installed all parts per videos .they helped a lot. Inner tub went on crooked and first wash ruined inner/outer tubs top piece. Took to dump.

Open back cover and found that drain pump had a bad seal. Took it apart and bought new seal some what same size. Put everything togather and start washing clothers and wife complained that it became wost the before. When on line and found pump and price was just right to take a risk. Ordered on sunday and got ups tuesday.
Replaced pump on Sunday and leak was gone and wife was happy.

------Got chicken and beer that Sunday--------------

The hose has a tapered end that fits in a tapered hole in the back of the washing machine.When insalled the first time,the joint leaked badly.My solution was to coat the hose end and the interior of the hole in the back of the washing machine with silicon sealant;let it set up for a few minutes and install the new hose.This solved the leak and the hose seems to be working fine now.

I pulled agitator off revealing rotted hub. Had to remove inner basin from machine. This required pulling off top and tying up to be out off way . I had to get the control panel out of way. Removed back screws and moved it up as though hinged. I had to remove the water fill piece, as this was impeding removal of basin. I had to remove top ring off of inner drum. Needed a second person to hold control panel away as I removed drum. Once drum was out, it was an easy task to replace the rotted hub. I then needed to get the portion that was rotted and still on drive out. Could not wrench the hub nut out due to lack of leverage. Split nut with a chisel. Once old nut out, I cleaned up threads, put inner basin back in, again utilizing assistance in holding control panel out of way. Reinstalled in order. Before I had gone too far, I found that a six pronged jumper had fallen off of the controls. Found where it had been and re-installed. Put remainder back in reverse order. Machine back on line, and working properly.