WPRE8320H1WT General Electric Washer - Instructions

Removed the screws for the control panel and replaced the load switch and valve body in about 20 minutes. Simple fix and it's working perfectly!

First I removed the old part (2 screws)
Pulled off 4 wires (maybe the wrong word, I'm not a professional!
Put the new part in-turned the water on and had a stream of HOT water-yay
I had been putting this off because no one in my family had noticed (except me) and with my husband out of work it seemed like a low priority, but when my daughters came home for Christmas, they said "There's no hot water in the washing machine" so I took the plunge--I cannot believe I waited that long!
It literally took me seven minutes!

When disassembling I could not remove the 1 3/4" tub nut with in house tools and had to order the spanner wrench. Almost mandatory unless you have a socket wrench.

I remove three screws on top of the washer, moved the cover of the machine in order to get access to the water valve, and then desconnected the two solenoid of the valve,and removed two screws that hold the valve with the frame and installed the new valve in same order a took the old one.

Removed front panel, cut two wires to switch ( color coded ) snapped old switch out and installed new switch, connected wires with wire nuts. Removed two screws in lid, removed magnet and installed the new one. A caveman could do it!

I removed the front cover, then unscrewed the top to expose the top. There are two screws that hold each strap, which turns out are different sizes, so I had to use two different sockets. I also had to remove the hose & plastic tube for the bleach. Once that was done, the replacement was easy, I replaced all 4 straps, reconnected the tube for the bleach, screwed the top back on and snapped the front cover into place. This took maybe 30 minutes - and I am female!

Unplugged the washer and unscrewed the hot and cold filler hoses from the back of the machine. Removed the 6 screws holding the top together. Unscrewed the 2 water valve mounting screws. Pulled off the electrical wires from the leads. Unclipped the water feed hose clip. Reattached everything to the new water valve in reverse order. Put the screws holding the top panel in place back in.

For good measure, I also replaced the drain hose since I had noticed a little leakage there. Two screws and a little twisting and pushing was all that took.

Then I hooked everything back up and it worked like a charm. Finally, I went out to dinner with my wife on the money I saved!

After realizing I had purchased a used washing machine without a drain hose I thought I would never find one, but then I found partselect.com. After easily locating the part on the web site from the detailed diagrams and model number I then ordered it. Receiving the part quickly I used a socket to remove the plastic connector that prevents the hose from disconnecting once the washer is turned on. I fed the hose through the plastic connector and into the drain hole without any issues. I then used my one small socket to secruely fasten it back together. There was no additional tools or items needed to successfully attach the washer drain hose.

I wasn't sure what the problem was. I Googled the most common problem for this washer and it pointed to the Lid Switch with Wire Harness. I ordered the part, watched the video provided, and installed it. Installation was just like the video said. Due to the lack of dexterity in my hands due to arthritis, it took about 25 minutes from start to finish. Washer works like new now.

Drain tub. remove 2 hose clamps and hoses. R&R 2 screws that hold pump.

Reviewed your website for problem symptoms for top loading washers not agitating and possible solutions. Purchased the lid switch wiring harness. All I needed was a painters 1" putty knife, wire cutters, Philips head screwdriver, (2) electrical connectors (crimping type), crimping tool, and electrical tape. Very easy installation and problem was solved. Recommendation, the wiring harness should come with electrical connectors (crimping type). The installation video on your website was a big plus in making this small project a success

Basically, I just followed the instructions in the video that is posted on this sight. It went off without a hitch. Removed the screws from the control panel, lifted it up and out of the way. Then I used the putty knife to release the clips that hold the front panel in place and then removed the top of the washer. Pretty easy from there to swap out the dampening straps and reassemble the washer. Saved a lot of money doing it myself.

pulled off cup on top of agataor. scrwed off nut. pulled off agatator. flipted up side down. took off agatator bell wich is on the bottom of the agator. sliped on bell. put agatator back on and scrwed on nut. dont reamber the size of the nut.sorry. put cap on and your done.

Tub seal was found completely broken. Replaced it.
Then replaced tub bearing, tub bearing washer, shaft & mode shifter assembly and 6-rib drive belt.
Reassembled and tried, more quieter and like new machine.

Loosening tub nut was a challenge as it was bit corroded, use of WD40 was a great help.
Knowledge from you tube was a great help.

The cap just removed by tapping a few times with a screw driver and hammer. then pulling upward it came off and I placed the new dispenser on. a couple minutes saved me from running up and down to add softener and it was very inexpensive.Thanks alot PARTS SELECT.