GTW485ASJ4WS General Electric Washer - Instructions

unplugged old part plugged in new, took about 2 minutes.

this is a great web site, I didn't have to wait for a serviceman to come. and maybe not have the part and come back again. ........thanks

I contacted parts select and entered washer information and asked them if they thought they would now what the problem was and and they responded with a answer and also a list of two parts that they thought might take care of the problem. I ordered the parts,looked on u tube to see how to change them and replaced both parts .I think the clutch was good but the drive belt was stretched and needed replaced.Know it works great.

You have to take the top off of the washer and the four suspension rods are at each corner. Fairly simple removal and installation of the rods. A quick you tube search is all it took. Easy peasy.

Not knowing for sure how to fit it I went to youtube for help watched a few videos and tested different things until I hit the right one .Moms washer is fixed.replaced lid lock,motherboard and pump I'm sure I don't need all those parts because when I found the code for the lid lock it started working

Extremely easy. You will need a helper to make it easy. The best directions are on you tube.

Attached the lid striker with 2 screws to hold it in place

I just took old one out an put new one in

Used a Phillips screw driver to lock the top and bottom of auger. Took a while to separate from base. Used another driver to remove old base and put the new one on with nut driver. Placed auger on base and turned to lock. Job done and works great.
Thanks

6y/o washer.
First checked lid switch. It turns out that the connector was disconnected. Probably became disconnected after the shaking from an unbalanced load. Reconnected and worked for three loads, then failed to spin again.

Purchased switch kit, belt and mode shifter, but held off the replacement. Parts select shared the diagnostic sheet. You can find yours inside the washer in a Ziploc bag. Tilt washer back and look underneath.

Went through diagnostic codes and all checked out fine. Did a fault reset. Worked again for three loads then failed to spin. GE sent a tech ($109 for service call). His diagnosis read-out showed rods/springs needed replacement. Parts arrived in three days and took about 45 minutes to r&r (I marked the new ones with a marker when unpacking to avoid confusion). USE VISE GRIPS AND.INSTALL FROM THE TOP. DO THE REAR.ONES FIRST Afterward, three loads done fourth load no spin.

Replaced lid switch with the kit. Again 3 loads fine, 4th load spin fail.

Note; each unplug & replug in resets the error codes, which may explain the 3 load temporary fix.

Did more research...

Finally, replaced old lid switch with lid switch kit (old switch was functioning fine, but I had the kit, so replaced it, in the event it was throwing an error code. Again 3 loads fine, 4th failed to spin.

Tilted washer back 45° for bottom access. Removed old belt. Belt and pulleys were loaded with grease/oil. Pulled both pulleys and scoured them. Replaced mode shifter. Note; old belt was about 3/4" larger diameter than new belt. Part#s matched, so it was the correct belt. Obviously the old belt was very worn. Oil/grease may be a combination of two things 1-slight leak from transmission seal, without any puddles on the floor and 2- the heat from the worn belt degrading the petroleum within.

While under the washer, removed the pump and hoses, checking for obstructions in the hoses and impeller. None found.

While underneath I grabbed the tech sheet from inside wall.

Checked the capacitance of the capacitor. Spec on the capacitor is 60 +/-5%. Mine tested at 61.1...within specs. (Be sure to discharge capacitor safely first!)

Reassembled the machine. Working fine through fifteen loads so far.

Final note. YouTube videos for all these steps online.
Conclusions; mechanically easy repair for DIYer. Probable causes...Belt worn, mode shifter and rods/springs worn out.

Total cost ~$200 parts + $109 for GE tech call.
Labor ~3 hours, but only because of so many disassembly re-assembly attempts at repair. Had it all been done at one time, total time would've been <1.5 hours

Thanks parts select and Barb (you're awesome)

The drain pump had three screws. Frist unplug the machine and turn the water off. And unplug the hose for the Hot and Clod Water. Make sure their no water in the tub. Unplug the pipe from the Tub. The unscrew the nut for the connector. Then unplug the connector and be careful not to damage plug for the connector. Press the plug connector with your finger or long nose pliers . Then just hook the new plumb and you all set.

The parts I ordered were made of junk plastic and did not match up with the the existing parts. The parts did not end up fixing the problem and I bought a new washer instead.

Waste of money

Put the parts in, turned washer on.....lid lock still blinks, will not operate. Suggest the control board that sends the signal to the solenoid lid lock switch is defective. Buying a new washer, scrapping this one.

Took the belt cover and then replaced the pump. Did a dry run and everything was fine.

Replaced water pump. Washer now works as new.
Wife is now happy!

Easy fix. Take out the two screws on the backside of the control panel and remove control panel out of the way. You will need a long shaft nut driver or 1/4 inch socket extension to be able to get to the nuts, one on each side of the back of the control panel. The water inlet valve is right there in your face. Easy to remove and replace. Remember to save the small O-ring in the center of the top of the valve and reuse it. Oh, by-the-way, shut the water off first and unplug the washer. Replacement part was a perfect match.