WCCN2050F0WC General Electric Washer - Instructions

turned washer on it side took bottom off removed hose and replaced it with the new one. so very happy i tried it , works great like before. thanks for the easy to find diagram of parts.

replaced pump to tub inlet hose.

removed old dampening straps replaced with new ones a total of 4 straps, took about 10 min, works great again.very easy to do. thank you.

Lay the drain pipe lower than the tub to remove any excess water in the tub and lines. Loosened clamp on the tub side with a screwdriver then removed hose from the tub. I used pliers to pinch clamp and remove hose from pump. To install hose put clamps on hose then mount to the pump and the tub then tighten clamps.

Steps:
1.- Open the front panel by pressing down (with a spatula) the 2 metal locks located between the front and top panels.
2.- Remove the drain hose located int the lower right and at the bottom using a set of pliers and a nutdriver.
3.-Install the new drain hose.
4.-Reinstall the front panel

The installation itself took me less tha 15 minutes.
Since I had opened the the front panel, I took rthe oportunity to air clean and dust off the equipment.

first I filled the washer max load to determine the problem, once I saw where the water was dripping I decided to remove the hose. I removed bottom of the hose, and the water from the tank started pouring out, I tryed to put the hose back on but started to get a pretty good electric shock, I then unpluged the washer and ran to garage for the floor squeegy. I then pushed the water out the side door. After cleaning and drying all rooms I sat down at the computer and ordered part. When the part arrived I removed clamp with pliers put both clamps on the new hose and installed. A very simple project and I ended up with a clean laundry room. Thanks "Brainy"

I pulled the front off of the washing machine using a table knife to pop the clips. The drain hose had a hole big enough to put your finger in so we knew that was the problem. One of the clamps holding it on took a screwdriver to loosen the clamp, the other I used a pair of adjustable pliers to squeeze the ends together to loosen it. I pulled off the old part, ordered it, got it the next day and replaced it the same way I took it off. It was simple and the part was less than $10.

"Thought" the belt was the problem - ordered new belt - waited for belt to arrive - opened washer. Belt was in perfect condition - problem is the clutch. Next time husband will verify problem before ordering parts.

The pressure hose was my problem. It seemed to be connected and did not have any visible holes. When I blew in it there did not seem to be a leak. After trying some tubing from the hardware store that worked sometimes but not always I decided to get the manufacturer part. I realize now that the pressure has to be exact for the switch to work correctly. You can check the switch by blowing into the hose from the tub end, it should start to cycle once the pressure changes. If the switch works try replacing the hose even if you can't find a leak and use the manufacture part to get the correct pressure. Good Luck.

Step one: Order the Belt and the $10.00 tool that fits on the motor sprocket to keep the belt from slipping off. Step 2: Lean the washer back at about a 45 degree angle, you may have to disconnect the water lines to achieve this. This puts the machine in a good position when you sit in front of it as you are installing the belt. Step 3: Install the tool over the motor sprocket leaving the grooves exposed. The belt fits in these grooves. Step 4: Slip the belt over the motor sprocket first and than the large sprocket wheel behind. This will take a little muscle as the belt is considerably smaller. After a couple of attempts at rotating the big sprocket the belt kept slipping off. I than took a plastic tie and strapped it around the belt and the big sprocket wheel, this kept the belt from slipping off as I rotated the wheel. Once the belt is on snip off the plastic tie and you are home free.

This job did not take much longer than 15 minutes if that.1st take the cord or twine and loop it under 2 paddles of the agitator.( there is a small groove under each of the paddles that has enough space to put the cord in) Pull up on the cord to remove the agitator. 2nd. Under the agitator is a bolt that secures the agitator coupling. Remove that bolt. Keep bolt(you may want to replace this bolt if rusted and worn. Mine was still ok so I reused it.) 3rd pull up on Agitator coupling to remove. Teeth were worn on Coupling, So discard. 4th Insert new coupling, replace bolt to secure coupling. finally slide agitator back over coupling till locks back in place. ....Done.

Pull the Agitator out by hand no tools where needed. Took Fabric Softer dispenser off put it on new Agitator. Pushed the new Agitator on. Repair done. Sure am happy I did it myself. Service charge from repair company would have been a lot more then $50.00.

We couldn't get a repair to come out - were told to buy a new because it would cost too much to fix. I did not agree. I pulled the agitator off and discovered it was not working and the agitator coupler was spinning. I ordered both and put them in myself. My washer now worked like new! All for less than $100. The service guy wouldn't eve come out for less than $175 and that did not include parts!

The belt is very tight. Use a zip tie to old the belt on as you work it around the large pulley. Once it is on remove zip tie and turn the pulley enough times to line up the belt evenly then your done.

I removed the agitator, replaced the agitator coupling. The guy at the appliance store where I was able to find the part said to check the splines on the inside of the agitator as well. Glad I did, the splines on the agitator were worn out too. So by checking both, if and when the problem occurs, REPLACE BOTH parts! This will save a lot of grief for you!