GTW180SCJ0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Watched the video, read installation instructions.
Replaced four broken dampening straps, washer is quiet and all is good.

Removed the softener despenser by pulling it straight up, then did the same with the agitator, except I had to turn it a little then pull straight up.

pulled up on agitator and it came off and replaced it with the new one

The video I watched said to remove front panel, control panel, and top panel. After I removed the front panel, I was able to remove the lid switch and splice the wires together and reinsert in the mounting without removing the other panels. Secured with wire tie and put front panel back in place. This did not, however fix the problem.

First tried pulling the old agitator out by hand but couldn't get my fingers under it to pull upward. Tried several times but no success. Finally put two metal rods about 8 inches long in the holes in the bottom of the agitator and used them to lift upward, it came up immediately. I then pushed the new agitator down into the slot and it was finished. There is always a way when you think about it.you are a winner.

old one out, new one in. new one is seated, but not a perfect match bracket to hold hose in washer does not fit on this replacement hose properly. But I feel comfortable with the result & use

Followed the video with one exception. The hose clamps were the spring-loaded type and putting the back hose clamp on was a problem, so I substituted a nut driven hose clamp. Other than that, no problems.

After much research I decided to have to repaired all new models were not good. Reached out to local service repair because I beleved that it was the timer. $270 for service call REALLY and $125 for part.
Reached ot to PART SELECT LOVE YOU GUYS) SAID WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM the chocie was a new knob or replace timer. I am
83 yr old woman and believe I could have done it myself if it wasn't for the problem of moving the dryer out. shut off electric four screws
take out old replace new rewire the four screws WORKING NEPHEW
DID IT IN TEN MINUTES NO CHARGE BUT THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR REAFFIRMING MY DIAGNOSIS. AUDREY

Watched the video from your web site and followed the instructions. Didn't need to remove the console on my model.

Popped cap off of agitator and used 12inch extension with 3/8 socket to remove bolt. Pulled off agitator and turned upside down. I then used 4 flathead screwdrivers to depress tabs on old coupling and flipped agitator back over and used a long screwdriver to push old coupling out. Flawless! Wiped everything down and pushed new agitator coupling right in place! Perfect! Put everything back together and washer is back in business!! Thank you PARTSELECT!!

my son repaired it. I was told that I had to by the whole thing as you could not get parts. Thank you for the parts.

The video on your site on the page for this belt was perfect. Really just using a tie wrap to hold the belt as you spin it to put in place was a very helpful idea. It was easy and less expensive than a new washer!

front back and top have to come off, but contrary to 'youtube' instructions, 'nothing' has to be disconnected, if the washer is pulled away from the wall and power unplugged things can be unscrewed and pushed back enough to pull the inner tub out and get to the seal without disconnecting water lines wires or anything else.. the main shaft nut is aluminum and the shaft is 'castellated' so alittle penetrating oil on it and a short 10" pipe wrench in conjunction with a 2lb sledge busted it loose easy enough so i didnt need to buy a spanner .. the seal was easy to get out with a couple of screwdrivers wedged in the sides .. the old split ring crumbled upon removal also so get one of those .. i lucked out on the washer that goes with it and mine was still usable but if it was rusted any more than it was i wouldve needed that also .. so good idea to get the 3 items if your doing the seal - seal, split ring, and washer - another thing, i cleaned everything up good, knocked everything off with a brass brush, polished the shaft seal area with some 600 grit and then lubed the seal with silicone grease thinking it might be hard to get in .. it wasnt .. and it leaked slightly until i did several loads .. in hindsight it would be better to 'lightly' coat the outer edge of the seal that mates to the tub with a good silicone gasket maker, the inner lips with the grease would be fine ... so thats about how it went, parts came quick and i had it all fixed up in a couple of hours .. cleaning things as i went probably took longer than the wrenching ..

Remove top of washer control panel to access filler. My hands are not large by t was difficult removing the old part and carefully trying not to drop mounting screws. Had to loosen screws twisting threads with pliers. No access for regular Phillips screwdriver. Patience is needed.

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.