GTW460ASJ5WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Instructions were fairly good, line up holes and push a phillips head screwdriver thru auger then twist it off. Problem is you can only use a short screwdriver due to space limitations, and it is or at least for me was impossible to twist the auger off as directed, but after I lost my temper and gave the screwdriver a good thump (auger was already broke, what's the harm) with my left hand the auger came right off, putting the new one on is very simple.

REALLY easy-
Just unscrewed the two screws with a Phillips, slid the old one out, the new one set in perfectly, and used the same screws to hold it in place. 2 minute task total.

Took the belt cover and then replaced the pump. Did a dry run and everything was fine.

Installing the inlet value was very easy the only thing was a very small "O" ring wasn't supplied with the value, so I removed the one on the leaking value. Not care must be taken not to damage the used "O"
The washer is running with no leaks
Thank you, for, saving me hundreds of dollars

Being a woman I had to figure out tipping it in its front. I put it on a dollie and drop it down real easy.
Removed all water lines after water was shut off.
Removed bolts. Removed bolts on plate to the right to unplug old pump.
Plugged in new one and replaced all bolts, hoses and tipped her back up. Works like a charm and I saved $408 by doing it myself!!!!!

1 Disconnect power 2) Cut water supply to washer 3) Disconnect water supply hoses from supply.
***if pump broke with water in tub, remove water from tub. 4) tip machine onto it's front side 5) remove hose clamp of exhaust hose & then remove exhaust hose from pump 6) Remove pump with socket/ratchet 7) disconnect pump electrical plug 8) tell old pump to take a hike & throw in garbage 9)Iinstall new pump 10) Do steps 7—1 in reverse order to put back into business.******Be prepared to do it again in 6 months; I havnt had good luck!

Disconnected power and water, laid it on its back, took off the belt, then took the new belt and put it on with a little difficulty putting the belt back on. really have to watch your fingers if you are not careful

Open up the top of the washer per instructions. Remove the old switch and wiring harness. Install the new wiring harness and switch. The instructions that were provided are very descriptive so the installation went flawlessly. The switch has been redesigned and looks to be more robust than the original. The washer now works like new.

Emptied the washer, took the back cover off, tipped it foward, unplugge the old pump, remove two mount bolts. The replaced the new pump. The new pump resolved the issue.

Took 4 screws out of back of control panel. Tested old capacitor. Installed new one. Put back on tested spin cycle everything is doing great

Take cover off use socket driver to remove two hex head machine screws. There was a foam piece attached to the old part that i pealed off and attached to the new part. It’s there to prevent rattles. There is a tube that pulls out of the old part and a grommet inside that must be removed and placed in the new part. Connect the two electrical plugs and install the new part just like the old part came out.

First, I made sure the washer was empty of cloths and water and then unplugged the appliance. I laid a towel down on the floor just in case there was any water remaining in the drum and I slowly laid the washer on its side, I was able to do this with the drain and water hoses still connected to the washer, be careful you do not rip any of these connections or simply disconnect, to each is own. Once I had the washer on its side, I used the socket wrench to remove the 3 bolts holding the belt drive cover on the motor. I placed the cover and bolts to the side, and I began pulling off the old belt that had slipped, stretched, wrapped and ultimately hung up the motor off buy unwrapping it from the motor itself. Once the motor was free from the belt, the wheel was able to spin like it is supposed to. I installed the new belt by simply wrapping it on the motor wheel and spinning it on to grab onto the second wheel, just make sure to line the belt up correctly so it does not fall off. I placed the cover back over the belt and bolted on the 3 bolts. I flipped my washer back up and ran a small wash cycle to make sure that the belt was working properly and once it began to wash, I threw in some cloths and began washing as normal. The whole process took less than 15 minutes.

Unplugged the machine, pulled it away from the wall, didn’t have to disconnect water lines, set the parts out on the counter as I went over the instructions a couple of times, followed the directions, plugged it back in, worked perfectly again.

I downloaded the repair manual on line and followed the instructions for running the diagnostics. This showed that the selector switches were faulty. I then replaced the selector switches following the instructions in the repair manual. Couldn't have been easier.

6y/o washer.
First checked lid switch. It turns out that the connector was disconnected. Probably became disconnected after the shaking from an unbalanced load. Reconnected and worked for three loads, then failed to spin again.

Purchased switch kit, belt and mode shifter, but held off the replacement. Parts select shared the diagnostic sheet. You can find yours inside the washer in a Ziploc bag. Tilt washer back and look underneath.

Went through diagnostic codes and all checked out fine. Did a fault reset. Worked again for three loads then failed to spin. GE sent a tech ($109 for service call). His diagnosis read-out showed rods/springs needed replacement. Parts arrived in three days and took about 45 minutes to r&r (I marked the new ones with a marker when unpacking to avoid confusion). USE VISE GRIPS AND.INSTALL FROM THE TOP. DO THE REAR.ONES FIRST Afterward, three loads done fourth load no spin.

Replaced lid switch with the kit. Again 3 loads fine, 4th load spin fail.

Note; each unplug & replug in resets the error codes, which may explain the 3 load temporary fix.

Did more research...

Finally, replaced old lid switch with lid switch kit (old switch was functioning fine, but I had the kit, so replaced it, in the event it was throwing an error code. Again 3 loads fine, 4th failed to spin.

Tilted washer back 45° for bottom access. Removed old belt. Belt and pulleys were loaded with grease/oil. Pulled both pulleys and scoured them. Replaced mode shifter. Note; old belt was about 3/4" larger diameter than new belt. Part#s matched, so it was the correct belt. Obviously the old belt was very worn. Oil/grease may be a combination of two things 1-slight leak from transmission seal, without any puddles on the floor and 2- the heat from the worn belt degrading the petroleum within.

While under the washer, removed the pump and hoses, checking for obstructions in the hoses and impeller. None found.

While underneath I grabbed the tech sheet from inside wall.

Checked the capacitance of the capacitor. Spec on the capacitor is 60 +/-5%. Mine tested at 61.1...within specs. (Be sure to discharge capacitor safely first!)

Reassembled the machine. Working fine through fifteen loads so far.

Final note. YouTube videos for all these steps online.
Conclusions; mechanically easy repair for DIYer. Probable causes...Belt worn, mode shifter and rods/springs worn out.

Total cost ~$200 parts + $109 for GE tech call.
Labor ~3 hours, but only because of so many disassembly re-assembly attempts at repair. Had it all been done at one time, total time would've been <1.5 hours

Thanks parts select and Barb (you're awesome)