S3600D0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Watched the video, good video. But instead of taking the bolts out first, it's easier to remove bolts last, to give support to remove the hoses.

I ordered the part on Wednesday didn't think we would be washing any clothes until atleast Monday. The pump came on Friday! Installed it 15-25 minutes(that's taking out the old one too) . As someone stated before the only (little) problem was the spring clamps. Screw the pump in first and then put the Clamps on.

After doing some troubleshooting, I found that the Air Bell was stripped inside.

First I removed the agitator by firmly pulling it straight up. Then I removed the bolt holding the air bell (agitator coupling) with a ratchet. Then came the hard part. The air bell (agitator coupling) was stuck on the shaft and would not come off. I used rope to lasso under the coupling and tied it to a 2x4 for leverage and eventually wrestled it off by using an upward jolting motion time and time again. Spraying WD-40 in the coupling seemed to help loosen it up.

Prior to installation, I cleaned the grooves of the shaft by scraping them out with a flat tip screw driver. Installed the new coupling by tapping it down with a hammer until it was seated firmly and locked it down with the new bolt. Aligned the agitator and slid it down until it latched. Done!

The picture of how to depress the clips to remove the front was incorrect. The clips are 4" from the sides not immediately at the sides per the picture. The 4 rubber springs were only part of what was needed for the washer. The old gas dryer was still working. There are two more springs on the bottom of the tub missing not shown on diagrams, so it still sways side to side, bangs around and makes a lot of noise. After putting on the 4 rubber springs, it ran, but probably needed a new clutch also, because it wouldn't spin dry anymore. I ended up spending $2000 for new washer and dryer from Maytag, and throwing out these old machines today.

I had to take out the front panel to access the Tub. Afterward the work wasn't hard.

I pulled up on the agitator with a quick upward jerk to remove the agitator, then I used a 7/16 socket to take the bolt out of the coupling, pulled up on the coupling and removed it. Took the new coupling sit it on top of the shaft, I turned the coupling slowly to line the grooves of the shaft to the grooves on the coupling, then I pushed the coupling down onto the shaft, put new bolt in the coupling and tightened it down, then I lined the agitator grooves up with the grooves on the coupling then pushed agitator down until it snapped in place on the coupling.

remove top control panel & r&r water level/pressure switch.

Turn the washer around and take off top back plate behind the controls. Fold controls forward out of the way. Disconnect electrical connection on triple valve by lifting holding clip slightly and pulling out plug. Remove clamp from hose at valve and pull off hose. Remove two screws and replace valve. Install new valve in reverse order.

Ordered new pump on Sunday - replaced on Wednesday. Removed front washer panel with putty knife to release latches. Used pliers to disconnect hose clamps. Lots of paper towels to sop up water in bottom of washer and on floor. Unhooked electrical wires. Socket to remove pump. Reverse actions to replace pump. It's "plug and play"!

The hardest part is lifting the washer to get a the bottom. Disconnect the power, shut off water. Disconnect hoses and drain hose. Move washer from the wall about 2 feet. Tilt up front of washer. I used 4 12" long 8x8 inch lumber, lift washer….place one on each from corner. Lift again, place 1 more 4x4 on each existing 4x4. Now remove the belt off the 3 pulleys. Use the flat blade screw driver to remove the C clip holding the Pully on the shaft, with the flat bladed screw driver and hammer. Once the C clip is off remove the metal washer, pulley, plastic lock (apart of the bottom of the pulley & the thrush bearing and it's washer. Using the parts supplied (the "new thrush bearing is a bearing and washer combined) replace as you removed it. Thrust bearing, pulley, washer and, c clip. I tapped mine on using the flat bladed screw drive……becareful not to break it (they did supply 2 for me in the repair packet) make sure he c clip is secured. Lower the washer after removing all the tools from under the washer, by reversing the lift sequence. Slide the washer in place. Connect the hoses back up. Plug it in.Reconnect the drain hose, you should be good to go.

REMOVED THE AGITATOR BY LIFTING STRAIGHT UP WITH MY HANDS. COULDN'T REMOVE THE COUPLING WITH THE NUTDRIVER AT FIRST, DUE TO RUST. SPRAYED A LITTLE WD40. LET IT SET FOR FIVE MINUTES AND REMOVED THE SCREW VERY EASY WITH THE PLIERS. TOOK OUT THE OLD COUPLING AND REPLACED IT WITH THE NEW ONE. THANKS FOR THE YOU-TUBE INFO.

pulled front panel off it snaps in but had to get off. then remove two bolts holding too down. moved top around to get to straps. front to easy 5/16 deep socket aND rather .the other end has 1/4 socket back hard to get too not bad. took 30 minutes. didn't fix problem. on bottom of motor looks like it had rubber bumpers but none there didn't find any on parts list. went to parts house auto got two rubber freeze plugs installed them in hole on bottom of motor that stopped the noise and rube moves very little now. also install new belt . install it put it on motor then on part of pulley then roll pull while keeping belt on motor roll pulley around till belt on all the way then roll pull more pushing on belt on motor till belt fit in all groves then roll it couple more times it will line groves up on pull. install top back down then snap front panel it your done.

I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.

Repair went well but there was clips to the door switch not in the video. Still was easy to work around and complete.

Removed the knob from water level switch. Removed 4 screws holding the control panel cover on and leaned it out. Made sure the washer was unplugged and removed the three wires and removed the water level hose and the switch. Installed the new switch and hose plugged the wires back in and put things back together. Washer works fine now.