GRWN5550D0WS General Electric Washer - Instructions

removed front of washer and removed top of washer very easy to replace 4 dampening straps (2 straps were broken replaced all 4

Take off front. Take off top. Pull off agitator. Pull off agitator coupler, after removing bolt holding in place. Attempt to remove hub nut, no joy. Wound up cutting the nut with a Dremel tool and chiseling the nut off. Closer inspection revealed a bad transmission. Due to the cost of the transmission, we will continue to use the machine until it completely fails.

It was hard for me. I'm a 54 year old woman. I tied it to the wheel with twine. It kept popping off, right it the time I would just about have it on. Several times !!!! I had no zip ties. Finally I tied the part of the craft stick on tightly. Put the belt on the motor rod and as much of the wheel as it would allow. Started turning slowly. There's really no room. I finally wiped it. There was one time that I sounded like the man off the movie Christmas Story. My youngest daughter is 13. She started laughing. It wasn't easy but I BLESS GOD for it. Thank all of you so much. Be safe and take care.

my son repaired it. I was told that I had to by the whole thing as you could not get parts. Thank you for the parts.

Repair was done with the help of step by step insructions available on utube, just enter model# and the repair you need to do. One problem I had was new tub seal{GE part] was a little smaller in diamater than the seal I removed And still leaked when I first ran washer So I took it back out and used a sealer [Permatex Indian Head gasket shellac compound from auto parts store] as recommended by one of the the repair techs on utube and it sealed it perfectly, just let it set op for about three hours and nice and dry now

Repair went great. The large nut had to be soaked to free it but the part was an exact fit.

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

I heard this is a tool you need to get that belt on with out slipping off. we thought we had the wrong size belt it as impossible at first to get the belt on. what a struggle

After noticing the leak, I moved the washer out to try to find the source. In the process, the Drain Hose Extension broke in two. As an emergency repair, I put the two halves together with duct tape. After running the washer again to try and find the leak, I discovered that it must have been the Drain Hose because now there was no leak. I then ordered a new one from PartSelect and replaced it with the repaired item.

This was easy and took maybe a half-hour. The harder part was pulling the front panel off (up) to access the insides. Simply snipped the wire to the old sensor and spliced the new wire and inserted the new sensor. Worked perfectly and saved me $400? on a new washer! (Cover panel is slightly bent, did not re-snap in, so it's loose; I don't care about the looks, so I will screw metal screws using a hinge to close it.)

Steps:
1.- Open the front panel by pressing down (with a spatula) the 2 metal locks located between the front and top panels.
2.- Remove the drain hose located int the lower right and at the bottom using a set of pliers and a nutdriver.
3.-Install the new drain hose.
4.-Reinstall the front panel

The installation itself took me less tha 15 minutes.
Since I had opened the the front panel, I took rthe oportunity to air clean and dust off the equipment.

turned washer on it side took bottom off removed hose and replaced it with the new one. so very happy i tried it , works great like before. thanks for the easy to find diagram of parts.

Removed the front panel (retainer clips), removed two screws holding the top panel and door, removed all 4 dampening straps and replaced them with the new straps, put the components back in reverse order of removal.

It was really easy to replace i removed the old one & sliped on the new one.

Lay the drain pipe lower than the tub to remove any excess water in the tub and lines. Loosened clamp on the tub side with a screwdriver then removed hose from the tub. I used pliers to pinch clamp and remove hose from pump. To install hose put clamps on hose then mount to the pump and the tub then tighten clamps.