GRWN5550D0WS General Electric Washer - Instructions

As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.

replaces as per video. Very helpful

The job was rather simple. After removing front panel with the aid of a putty knife to push back the spring clamps under the top panel, the pump is in plain view. Remove the two mounting screws and push back the spring clamps that secure the connection hoses. Squeezing the spring clamps that hold the hoses onto the pump can be a bit troublesome so I removed the spring clamps completely and replaced them with radiator hose clamps which made the job a whole lot easier. Replaced the front panel and the job was finished.

Removed the screws from the control panel and flipped it open. Used putty knife to pop the retaining clips that held the front panel of the washer in place to expose the drum itself. Noticed black gunk build up in hose connecting the drum to the water level pressure switch.

Disconnected the hose at both ends. Attached the new hose to the pressure switch and proved it was working by blowing into the hose and getting the water to stop flowing into the washer.

Taped the old hose to the new hose so I could use it as a pull-wire to guide the new hose through its protected housing. Attached the other end of the new hose to the tub and voila, all was well.

really easy repair, just open the front cover panel & removed the Drain Pump.

Followed the video with one exception. The hose clamps were the spring-loaded type and putting the back hose clamp on was a problem, so I substituted a nut driven hose clamp. Other than that, no problems.

The video on your site on the page for this belt was perfect. Really just using a tie wrap to hold the belt as you spin it to put in place was a very helpful idea. It was easy and less expensive than a new washer!

Removed front with putty knife to unlock hinge.removed and checked pump removed hose clamps with wrench and nut driver replaced hose reverse procedure

Someone did it for me.

I followed the repair video.

Watched the video from your web site and followed the instructions. Didn't need to remove the console on my model.

front back and top have to come off, but contrary to 'youtube' instructions, 'nothing' has to be disconnected, if the washer is pulled away from the wall and power unplugged things can be unscrewed and pushed back enough to pull the inner tub out and get to the seal without disconnecting water lines wires or anything else.. the main shaft nut is aluminum and the shaft is 'castellated' so alittle penetrating oil on it and a short 10" pipe wrench in conjunction with a 2lb sledge busted it loose easy enough so i didnt need to buy a spanner .. the seal was easy to get out with a couple of screwdrivers wedged in the sides .. the old split ring crumbled upon removal also so get one of those .. i lucked out on the washer that goes with it and mine was still usable but if it was rusted any more than it was i wouldve needed that also .. so good idea to get the 3 items if your doing the seal - seal, split ring, and washer - another thing, i cleaned everything up good, knocked everything off with a brass brush, polished the shaft seal area with some 600 grit and then lubed the seal with silicone grease thinking it might be hard to get in .. it wasnt .. and it leaked slightly until i did several loads .. in hindsight it would be better to 'lightly' coat the outer edge of the seal that mates to the tub with a good silicone gasket maker, the inner lips with the grease would be fine ... so thats about how it went, parts came quick and i had it all fixed up in a couple of hours .. cleaning things as i went probably took longer than the wrenching ..

I watch a YouTube video. Showing how to put the new belt on with a zip tie. 100 percent. Success. Thank you for the correct part.replacing the drain was very ease. Use a socket set.

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.

I watched the YouTube video. Great help. The part was at my house less than 24 hours after I ordered. Great delivery! The repair was a no brainer even for a novice like me.