GCVH6800J5MR General Electric Washer - Instructions

The repair video was almost perfect. I would not have even attempted the repair without the video as I am not a handyman at all. The diagnostic feature based on the symptoms was invaluable. I originally took the front of the washer off because I thought the rubber seal around the door was leaking.It was like 67% of the problem. But after checking the front seal carefully, I determined it wasn't. The next most likely issue as only rated 19% but when the water inlet pipe, I was actually tickled to see a crack in the plastic pipe. I ordered on line on Monday and with the cheapest shipping, I received my part in the mail on Thursday. I would highly recommend using Part Select for diagnostic, parts and repair. I will definitely use again. If I could make one recommendation to Part Select, it would be to do a close up during the video when the technician is working with a part, i.e., the wiring that goes around the rubber seal.

followed partselect video instructions. Easy but takes time. Thank you

Watch the video posted on PartSelect. It was excellent and walked step by step through the whole repair.

I only ran into one issue not included in the video. In order to remove the inner ring holding the boot seal, I had to remove the weight at the bottom of the tub. This is easy to remove with a wrench, but took two people to reinstall. You only need the second person for 1-2 minutes to hold the weight while you align the bolts.

The most difficult part is ensuring you replace the hex nuts and screws in the same location. I took pictures as i removed them to know where to reinstall.

Total repair time was probably 1.5 hours.

Before disassembling anything be really sure that the little things are reassembled just as they were prior to removal.....

My part came in and my husband was at work so..... I did not want to wait for him to come home to wash my clothes! I installed the motor myself and I was not even the one that took it off! It was so easy to do! Turned the washer on and bingo it was back and going! So glad I can get the parts myself and avoid the middle man and his bill!!! Hook up the drain hose with pliers and screw the motor to the frame and that's it!

The white door plunger broke after 3 years of use. After replacing the door plunger the door still would not close. so I also ordered the door lock part for inside the washer. This was also an easy replacement but far more expensive. A thing to note. If the door plunger breaks you may need to reset you locking piece. and save your self 130 dollars. To do this. remove the top panel of the washer. remove the control panel. remove the spring ring around the rubber seal. disconnect the door locking piece and remove from washer. now use a hook or stiff wire and loop inside the door plunger hole and pull the lock out. if it wont release ensure the white piece on the bottom is lowered all the way. This is also possible to reset with out removing but you wont be able to check the white piece(the lock holder). What ever you do do not take apart the locking piece it has lots of little parts an will give you nightmares.

First I removed the excess water by using my shop-vac both inside the machine as well as near the bottom drain valve. After cleaning out that valve (which somehow had accumulated a pair of underwear) it was apparent that the drainage pump motor was no working (loud hum, not spinning). Replacement was easy, folowing instructions found everywhere on-line. Now the machine is working perfectly again.

Removed top cover, loosened front door cover, removed & replaced old cracked plastic 'water inlet tube', reinstalled front door unit & top cover. Very tight space to work in when not completely removing front door unit.

Best to watch youtube video and take the time to take washer apart and gain the access needed. I completed repair and dismantled the filter and cleaned it in about an hour, better than the average of 2 hours.

After I disconnected the power and water and turned the washer around. I removed the back panel cover and the top and back panel to get to the pulley wheel. Once I remove the retaining nut and pulley the wheel off the spindle, i compared the new and the old parts and noticed the obvious wear on the old part, luckily the spindle was not damaged and still functional. Placing the new pulley wheel was a little more challenging. Once I seated the pulley wheel with a gentle tap from a rubber mallet. I fitted the lock nut onto the spindle and continued seating the wheel evenly using the nut to the prescribed torque pressure. After I reassembled the washer and reconnected the water and power, tested the washer, and success!

I watched the video and followed the instructions. First remove power. Remove the rear cover from the control panel and the top cover. Then remove screws that secure the control panel to the frame and remove the control panel. Remove the bottom cover. Then remove the lock ring that holds the rubber boot to the front panel. Remove the door and remove the water inlet pipe. Assemble the machine and run a test cycle.

I saw the video on how to remove the boot seal, and I just follow the instructions. Replacing the water inlet pipe was easy.

Took of back and lower panel to check where leak was look up and notice the plastic piece cracked and then look up diagram of model and ordered part. Once it arrived it didn't take very long to repair. Easy to a bit difficult and no more leaks.

hold drive pulley from turning and used socket wrench to remove nut. then pulled off pulley from shaft and belt came off same time. very carefully filed the flat sides of the shaft end where the pulley slides onto. careful not to overfile or round out the she shaft end. carefully tap in place the pulley onto the shaft. install a new nut and tighten it approx. 40 ft pounds or 1/4 turn past tight. do not reuse old nut. pulley comes with a new one and the nylon on the old one is no good once used. once pulley is tight install the belt first onto the motor shaft then work the other end of the belt onto the pulley from top end then turn the pulley wheel counter clockwise as you push more belt onto the pulley wheel. kind of like putting on your bicycle tire on your rim.

After looking at the video on how to repair a door boot seal on a Front Loader Washer. I went about installing the new boot seal, but after it still didn't fit in place correctly, I glanced over the top and noticed and after a few minutes noticed that one of the suspension springs was broken and the drum had dropped quite a bit. I ordered the spring I believe it was part 204 and in a couple days I and my father got the spring in place and now the washer is working as good as new. As it turns out I didn't need the door boot seal after all so now I have a backup incase one fails.