WBVH5300K3WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Did not have to use the new pump filter. The old one finally worked. I probably didn’t screw it in tight enough.

Per ps video. Really easy. Disconnect power, Remove front lower panel, remove Power leads, 2 installation bolts, remove 2 spring clamps on feed/exit hoses,reinstall.

Unplug machine.
Remove band from front bellows by prying the spring at 6:00 o:clock loose.
Pull back bellows on right side.
Remove 3 torx screws and gently pull door each lock assembly out. Unplug 3 wire harness connectors and plug into new latch lock in same order.
Screw new latch lock in place and replace bellows and band.
Done

I ordered a new control board but couldn’t find any YOUTUBE instructions. Finally I found one where you got the control board and the panel so I had to take the panel off and attach it to the new board. Since I paid $372 for the board I was very scared, but the whole thing came back together and worked perfectly. All and all a scary but inexpensive repair (I’m sure a tech would get $900-1000).

Replace the water valve according to the youtube video from this site. It was really easy!

followed partselect video instructions. Easy but takes time. Thank you

The repair video was almost perfect. I would not have even attempted the repair without the video as I am not a handyman at all. The diagnostic feature based on the symptoms was invaluable. I originally took the front of the washer off because I thought the rubber seal around the door was leaking.It was like 67% of the problem. But after checking the front seal carefully, I determined it wasn't. The next most likely issue as only rated 19% but when the water inlet pipe, I was actually tickled to see a crack in the plastic pipe. I ordered on line on Monday and with the cheapest shipping, I received my part in the mail on Thursday. I would highly recommend using Part Select for diagnostic, parts and repair. I will definitely use again. If I could make one recommendation to Part Select, it would be to do a close up during the video when the technician is working with a part, i.e., the wiring that goes around the rubber seal.

Before disassembling anything be really sure that the little things are reassembled just as they were prior to removal.....

My part came in and my husband was at work so..... I did not want to wait for him to come home to wash my clothes! I installed the motor myself and I was not even the one that took it off! It was so easy to do! Turned the washer on and bingo it was back and going! So glad I can get the parts myself and avoid the middle man and his bill!!! Hook up the drain hose with pliers and screw the motor to the frame and that's it!

After getting error message from washer, Looked it up and found if the water lines are find, then replace the water valve. After replacing the valve, everything works fine.

The white door plunger broke after 3 years of use. After replacing the door plunger the door still would not close. so I also ordered the door lock part for inside the washer. This was also an easy replacement but far more expensive. A thing to note. If the door plunger breaks you may need to reset you locking piece. and save your self 130 dollars. To do this. remove the top panel of the washer. remove the control panel. remove the spring ring around the rubber seal. disconnect the door locking piece and remove from washer. now use a hook or stiff wire and loop inside the door plunger hole and pull the lock out. if it wont release ensure the white piece on the bottom is lowered all the way. This is also possible to reset with out removing but you wont be able to check the white piece(the lock holder). What ever you do do not take apart the locking piece it has lots of little parts an will give you nightmares.

First I removed the excess water by using my shop-vac both inside the machine as well as near the bottom drain valve. After cleaning out that valve (which somehow had accumulated a pair of underwear) it was apparent that the drainage pump motor was no working (loud hum, not spinning). Replacement was easy, folowing instructions found everywhere on-line. Now the machine is working perfectly again.

After I disconnected the power and water and turned the washer around. I removed the back panel cover and the top and back panel to get to the pulley wheel. Once I remove the retaining nut and pulley the wheel off the spindle, i compared the new and the old parts and noticed the obvious wear on the old part, luckily the spindle was not damaged and still functional. Placing the new pulley wheel was a little more challenging. Once I seated the pulley wheel with a gentle tap from a rubber mallet. I fitted the lock nut onto the spindle and continued seating the wheel evenly using the nut to the prescribed torque pressure. After I reassembled the washer and reconnected the water and power, tested the washer, and success!

Removed top cover, loosened front door cover, removed & replaced old cracked plastic 'water inlet tube', reinstalled front door unit & top cover. Very tight space to work in when not completely removing front door unit.

I watched the video and followed the instructions. First remove power. Remove the rear cover from the control panel and the top cover. Then remove screws that secure the control panel to the frame and remove the control panel. Remove the bottom cover. Then remove the lock ring that holds the rubber boot to the front panel. Remove the door and remove the water inlet pipe. Assemble the machine and run a test cycle.