GHDSR209H5WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

followed the instruction on the wiring sheet and removal and repair sheet that comes with the wahing machine. They wee very good directions and the only problem that I had wa getting the 1 and 11/16 inch not off the shaft that holds the tub to the transmission, The main problem was that the transmission had leaked all over the break and the tub would spin while hitting the pipe wrench with a claw hammer. Ended up using a 10 lb sledge hammer to hit the pipe wrench and that finally loosened up the nut, but that was the only real problem i had. I say this was easy except for getting off that nut

I took off the cover behind the selector knobs and looked for the part that looked like the part I ordered. I unplugged a wire, took off the little hose, then twisted the part free. Twisting it free and twisting the new one back on was the hardest part, I even bled all over the machine from a cut I got while twisting! Then you plug the wire back in, there's only one way it will go, and put the little hose back on. I think it took less than 10 minutes.

Removed front cover, lifted lid. Unnapped the broken tub cover pulling the tub forward to allow the old cover to clear the rear of the housing/top. Installed the new tub cover by once again doing the same thing and carefully snapping it into place. Reconnected the rubber sping offloads, lowered the top and reinstalled the front cover..ready to run.

Part Select inclusion of parts diagram helped determine which part was broken, and how to disassemble just what was necessary. I was planning to open up the control panel to get inside, which was not necessary. Assembly was simple for the same reason. Sometimes, it does help to read the "manual" first....

I loosened the four nuts holding the motor in place, slid the motor toward the tub to slacken the belt enoug to remove it, then replaced old belt with new belt, pulled motor back in place until belt was tight, then tightened the four nuts holding th emotor in place.

- Troubleshot fill valve first. OK
- Followed leads to temperature selector switch.
- Checked resistance and live voltage at switch.
- Determined switch had failed on "hot" side.

1. SECURED POWER
2. Removed four torx screws on top of dashboard.
3. Removed six sheet metal screws from dashboard back.
4. Removed 4 leads from bad switch (one at a time).
5. Placed leads on new switch (one at a time).
6. Removed existing switch.
7. Installed new wired switch.
8. Re-installed dashboard back and top screws.
9. Op-test sat.

I followed the instructions provided by GE that were stored in the control section of the washer. Removing the hub nut was a huge pain. It took Liquid wrench, hammer, pipe wrench and patience to remove it. Other than that it was fairly easy. I didn't like the way the tub seal fit so I used some silicon gasket making material to help make sure the seal sealed good against the tub.

I took the control knob off and saw the teeth broken and got on line and ordered the part. It was an easy fix.

Finding the disassembly instructions in the control panel was very useful. After disassembly and inspection obviously the transmission had lost oil and deteriorate the belt and actually threw it off. Finding your web site was very helpful. The exploded views parts catalog were great! We had it rush shipped. It was great to speak with a representative on a sunday was excellent. The rep was knowledgeable and we concurred on which part were needed. Tracking number was correct via e-mail but only rec'd tracking number for one of the two packages which was stressful at the fedex office at pick-up. All items were rec'd on time assembly was straight forward. The basin retainer nut came loose after 5 loads and made a terrible noise. I applied blue loctite to nut and reinstalled. Seems to be working correctly. Bought an extended warranty which added 4 yrs. Washer failed 2 months after warr. Expired. Figures!! Great experience with partselect thank you.

First i the four screws on the switch area remover the front panel. Remover the lid swith and replace it. It was good to go again. It is as easy as one two three.

1) Disconnect power
2)remove front panel
3) remove screws and take hoses off
4) remove & replace water pump
:) YAY. all done

Popped the front off the washer by placing a towel under the screwdriver to prevent chipping the paint. Had to spent almost 45 minutes soaking up water that had leaked from pump. Must have been leaking for some time before enough leaked under washer and became visible, because there was a lot of rust build up. (1).Removed old pump by first un-pluging washer and them removing (2) connecting wires from pump. (3).Next use nut driver to loosen flex hose from washer. (not from pump). Loosen spring clamp from discharge hose , and slide up. (4) Using nut driver I removed (2) hex screws that held pump to frame, then removed pump and motor assembly. (5). Mopped up water with large (old) bath towels (6). Used hair dryer to dry area. (7). Used wire brush to brush away surface rust. then used small shop vacuum to remove this surface rust. (8). Used small brush to paint white rust-olem paint on rusted areas, used hair dryer again to help paint to dry, then gave it a second coat and again helped it dry. (9). I then removed flex hose from old pump assembly, checked it for cracks and finding none I attached it to new pump with existing spring clamp. (10). I then put pump assembly back inside washer, but did not attach with hex screws yet. (11). Re-attached the drain hose by sliding the spring clamp back down, making sure it is around the hose and discharge spout. (12). Reattach the flex hose to washer discharge spout. (13). Screw new pump and motor assembly unto newly painted frame. (14). Re-attach (2) wires to pump and motor assembly. (15). Plug washer back in and try filling it with some water, letting it go into the drain cycle to check for leaks. NOTE: You don't have to go through and entire wash cycle. Just use the dial to put some water in then move it to drain and /or spin to get the new pump and motor assembly going. I did this a couple of times and then did an entire load of clothes to ensure there were no leaks. After I was sure there were no leaks, I simply popped the front panel back on. My part cost a total of $64.00 including shipping, and it took me about 1 hour of my time. I checked with my local GE dealer and his cost would have been $98.00 for the part, and $85.00 for labor for a total of $183.00. I AM VERY HAPPY. Oh bye the way I had my part within 3 days of the order and that was with regular shipping. I will always use Parts Select from now on.

Remove aggitator, disconect 4 support straps, pry off clips/ latches on top of drum. Remove small bolt that holds on the small plastic unit unto trans.
That will give you access to the large bolt that holds the hub in place. This nut is on tight use a pipe wrench and adjustable wrench and TURN CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE - lock for direction on nut.
Remove the bin gently and turn over to remove the small bolts that hold the hub in place.
Installation is reverse of removal.

My husband was unavailable and already overloaded, so I took a screw driver and removed the front cover of the washer. After I discovered where the leak was coming from, I used a screw driver to remove one end of the hose and pliers to remove the other end. I went online, found the part and ordered it. It came in surprisingly fast. My husband put it back in about 5 minutes.

replaced Tub dampeners Straps.