WCSR4110TBWW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Main thing is watch the video. It may vary a little according to the age of your appliance, as it did with me but common sense guides. The difference was minor on my part. Two hex head screws to remove per strap and they had to make them 1 size different. Go figure. Have your change handy. A ratchet nut driver will save you some time.

I just watchied the clip on the website during the day about how to fix it, went home that night and fixed it.

Got a new part in the Agitator Coupling Kit, as the existing part was worm down. Simply removed and inserted the plastic bottom, used a mallet to pound it down and it was finished. By checking a video, I felt comfortable in doing the repair myself. A greater feelings was knowing I didn't have to go out and buy a new clothes washer. Thanks PartSelect for having the right part to complete this project.

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.

The repair was done as describe by others with the "hub nut" having to be cut off due to corrosion. Instructions for removal of the tub were found inside the control panel area on the left hand side. Ordering s new hub nut and cutting off the old one proved to be a necessity.

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

I reached under the agitator on two sides with my fingers and with one good upward yank the agitator came loose. I removed the agitator from the inside of the machine, I seen the Agitator Coupling was spinning in both directions so I felt that it may have been broken. I removed the one bolt hold the Agitator Coupling in place, I remove and inspected the Coupling and noticed that the spline was worn out. I cleaned the transmission spine that the Coupling slides over with a wire brush while using a shop vacuum to catch any loose debris. I installed new Agitator Coupling Kit slipped the Agitator back inside the machine over the coupling and pressed it down until it snapped into place. Job done. Machine works great.

I removed the supply hoses, removed the screws holding the sheet metal control console in place exposing the dual water inlet valve. Removed the two screws holding the valve in place, removed each wire from the old valve attaching it to the matching connector blade on the new valve. Using pliers loosened the spring clamp holding the output hose to the valve and reattached the hose to the new valve. Then screwed the new valve to the washer and reattached the supply hoses. After running a test for leaks and that the valve functioned properly, I screwed the sheet control console back in place.

Removed the front panel (retainer clips), removed two screws holding the top panel and door, removed all 4 dampening straps and replaced them with the new straps, put the components back in reverse order of removal.

Slide rope beneath agitator.
Pull up with good force..agitator will separate from coupling.
Remove screw from coupling.
Slide coupling off.
Slide on new coupling.
Install screw included with the new agitator (Don't use old screw. The new one is a specialty part designed for new coupling)
Slide agitator back down over coupling.
Done

pulled agitator off unscrewed bolt holding coupling on put new coupling on bolt in place put agitator on. washer working good

removed old dampening straps replaced with new ones a total of 4 straps, took about 10 min, works great again.very easy to do. thank you.

the part fixed all the problems in a cinch

Removed knob and installed the replacement.

There really is not much to explain, the new knob was so simple to replace that my six year old could have done it. No tools were required and it took less than a minute to replace the new knob.