WNCD2050A0WC General Electric Washer - Instructions

Remove top of washer control panel to access filler. My hands are not large by t was difficult removing the old part and carefully trying not to drop mounting screws. Had to loosen screws twisting threads with pliers. No access for regular Phillips screwdriver. Patience is needed.

I just watchied the clip on the website during the day about how to fix it, went home that night and fixed it.

The repair was done like the video suggested to do and in the order. And it worked well.In the step by step procedure.

Watched the video, read installation instructions.
Replaced four broken dampening straps, washer is quiet and all is good.

follow youtube vid. simple

removed front washer cover (2) clips at top released with straight screwdriver . removed washer top cover (2) 1/4" head screws that are behind front washer cover. Then removed screws holding tub dampening straps (4)5/16" head from agitation drum housing from top, removed other end of strap from under side (4) 1/4" head screws. then assembled with new straps in reverse order. easy repair nice and quiet again.

This was not hard to do.removed top screws and back plate screws. Water inlet valve has 3 screws and a hose clamp.this job was thirty min. tops.goes back together much faster then taking it apart.

removed three screws from back panel used putty knife to remove front panel and dampening strap were there to remove.

I decided without see exactly where the water was coming from to replace the pump and all the drain or inlet hoses, connectors, whatever carried water due to the age of the machine, almost 17 years old. I also decide to change the tub seal.
1. unplug
2. disconnect water supply
3. remove back of washer
4. laid washer on its front on a rug
5. removed the drain and filler hoses (3) different hoses and all new clamps
6. closed up everything, hooked up everything ran short cycle

WHEN THE PUMP STARTED SO DID THE WATER POURING OUT FROM UNDER THE WASHER, MORE THAN BEFORE I CHANGED OUT THE PARTS

I decided the tub seal was leaking. It was a logical decision and it was the last part that carried water that I didn't change.
1. remove front panel
2. remove top panel
3. remove electrical connection inside pane and remove entire top panel
4. remove agitator and agitator cup
5. remove top ring that hold inner liner
6. here is the problem, a special tool is required to remove the tub seal nut or a 1-11/16" socket that I didn't have
7. tried a new pipe wrench and rust buster taking care that the nut is soft metal
8. decided to purchase the correct tool(socket) and put everything back together to do two weeks worth of laundry
I left the front panel off to pinpoint where the water leaks was and when the pump started there was no leak in the washer. However, water was pouring across the floor.
I found that the house drain pipe was cracked on the top and back. This was on the outlet side of the trap. I would have never suspected the drain (PVC) with no stress or load on it to crack across the top of the pipe.
So anyway, $240 later for washer parts and $6.47 for a new piece of PVC I no longer have a problem, wrong!
Started a load of laundry and the washer will only fill for a small load.
1. Removed the front panel
2. removed the tube to the fill switch thinking there was water in it that's making the switch think its full when its not, NO WATER.
3. Shot air in the tube and made sure the switch clicked audibly
4 Started the washer with the fill switch tube off and waited for waited for water to start flowing out and then hooked up the tube and it shut off the water with a full load. Everything worked.
Tub seal still not changed but no leaks.

After receiving the wrong part 2x instead of magnet assy I received a metal clip ring. ordererd magnet assy from another source. iNSTALLATION IS VERY SIMPLE. REMOVE 2 SCEWS IN THE LID WHICH HOLD THE MAGNET IN PLACE AND REPLACE THE MAGNET WITH NEW ONE. TEST TO MAKE SURE ALL OPERATIONS ARE NORMAL.

I am a mother of 3 so a washing machine is vital. I called various appliance repair places and was quoted anywhere from $50 - $85 just to come and look at it. I did some online research and discovered that the part itself was less than $7. After paying for 2-day shipping, my total was under $20. I thought, what do I have to lose. I received the coupling kit and read the EASY instructions. I had already removed the old one so by the time I received the new one, it took me less than 10 minutes. WOW!! I now have a working washer!! .THINK AGAIN!!

I was going to replace the washer. .. I am a cabinet maker and pretty good at what I do. I have to admit before seeing the video I was out of my comfort zone with this repair. I was shown not only the part needed and that you folks had the part in your inventory on hand. I was pleased to see how inexpensive it was $7.40. I had it shipped for $8.70. I ordered online at 2 pm. the part arrived the next day at 1 pm. AMAZING!. I spent ten minutes making the repair. The machine is now back to it's like new self! Regards, MichaelAndrews.biz

I just added the agitator coupling and screwed it in.

The part came very fast and was easy to install, I pulled off the agitator and removed one bolt, replaced worn out part with new part and put the new bolt that came with the part in. Reatached the agitator and washed some clothes. done

1. Remove agitator with a quick upward jolt.
2. Remove bolt with ratchet or wrench.
3. Remove agitator coupling.
4. Install new coupling, tighten new bolt and slide agitator down until it latches after aligning appropriately.